Lei Pi Shan

  • Grades: US
  • Ascents: 294
  • Aka: 雷劈山


Lei Pi Shan is one of the premier crags in yangshuo. The Main wall is 50 metres tall Triangular shaped wave. The taller the route the more overhung it becomes


Lei Pi Shan is a huge overhanging cliff located just south from the town of Gao Tian. The climbing is typically overhanging and strenuous. With the exception of a just a few climbs the routes are graded 5.11–5.14a.

Access issues

No Access Issues so far


Lei Pi shan is located 40 metres from the road making access a breeze. From the center of Gaotian town, continue travelling on the G321 road away from Yangshuo towards Lipu for another 1.6km. Lei Pi Shan is on the right side of the road. You will not miss it.



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Grade Route

FA: David Brasco, Nov 2009

FA: S Fukuda, 2007

Another Short route requiring the muscles the size of grapefruit.

FA: Shinsuke Kimura, 2007

This route is located directly right of Muscle Damage. The Best Line on the lower wall is also the longest and most difficult

FA: Chen Gui Wen, 2008

This route is located directly left of Jeja. A tricky start eases into steep juggy territory

Set by Gan Yi Xing, 2005

FA: Blaz Germek & Liu Tao, 2005

FA Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005

FA Abin from Taiwan, Chen Gui Wen

Equipped by Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005

FA: Duncan Brown, Jonathon Seagrist & Andrew Hedish, Dec 2009

Appropriately named climb.

Equipped by Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005

FA: 2009

Great climbing out a steep, pocketed wall. Just left of the Waiting For Sophie and One Love.

Extension of "The Power of One"

FA: A Niu, Aug 2011

A one move wonder of a route. Moderate (6b-ish) climbing to a hard boulder problem and some 7a+ moves above the last bolt.

The last clip is a bit scary. Most people stop at the belay of One Love. A tough line for the grade.

Bolt by Xie WeiCheng

FA: Mathieu Bouyoud, Oct 2009

A Few Crimps has broken off at the crux and a lot of people goes right to the tufa to climb around the old crux which is apparently Easier then the direct line. You can still use the crimps and go straight up but it might make it harder? Not Sure and would need more consensus on this. Great line Regardless.

FA: Logan Barber, 2006

Extension of Paper Cut

FA: Mathieu Bouyoud, Oct 2009

FA: Logan Barber, Nov 2012

FA: Qu Haibin, Mar 2014

This is just the 7b (at least) pitch to the first anchors. The extended Thunder goes at 8b+, and is a rope stretching 36m or so.

Very thin, technical, and sustained. Called 7b in the book, everyone I know considers it solid 7b+. Update. 7c in 2013 guidebook.

P1 5.13b, P2 5.12d

FA: Dave Gliddon & Scott Millton, Nov 2008

Excellent Quality route and probably one of the best at the grade in Yangshuo, From crimp, jugs to some tufa wrestling. Crux is clipping the bolt on the crux. A jug broke off in 2012 and extended the crux by 2 metres.

FA: Joe Picalli, 2006

Extension of Singularity, bolt by Chris Sharma

Set by Chris Sharma, Oct 2009

FA: Wang Qinghua, Aug 2012

From Singularity's 4th bolt head right and follow seam and pockets to tufa

FFA: Seb Grieve, 2007

FA: Mike Robertson, 2006

FA: Oscar Gimenez, Nov 2009

FA: ABond, Aug 2011

FA: 2007

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