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Lei Pi Shan is a huge overhanging cliff located just south from the town of Gao Tian. The climbing is typically overhanging and strenuous. With the exception of a just a few climbs the routes are graded 5.11–5.14a.


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Grade Route

FA David Brasco 11/200

FA S Fukuda 1/2007

FA S Kimura 1/2007

This route is located directly right of Muscle Damage.

FA Chen Gui Wen 3/2008

This route is located directly left of Jeja. A tricky start eases into steep juggy territory

FA Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005

FA Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005

FA Abin from Taiwan, Chen Gui Wen

Equipped by Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005

FA Duncan Brown, Jonathon Seagrist, Andrew Hedish 5+12/2009

Appropriately named climb.

Equipped by Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005

Great climbing out a steep, pocketed wall. Just left of the Waiting For Sophie and One Love.

Extension of "The Power of One"

FA: A Niu, 2011

A one move wonder of a route. Moderate (6b-ish) climbing to a hard boulder problem and some 7a+ moves above the last bolt.

The last clip is a bit scary. Most people stop at the belay of One Love. A tough line for the grade.

Bolt by Xie WeiCheng

FA: Mathieu Bouyoud, 2009

Extension of Paper Cut

FA: Mathieu Bouyoud, 2009

This is just the 7b (at least) pitch to the first anchors. The extended Thunder goes at 8b+, and is a rope stretching 36m or so.

Very thin, technical, and sustained. Called 7b in the book, everyone I know considers it solid 7b+. Update. 7c in 2013 guidebook.

P1 5.13b, P2 5.12d

FA: Dave Gliddon & Scott Millton, 2008

Extension of Singularity, bolt by Chris Sharma

FA: Wang Qinghua, 2012

From Singularity's 4th bolt head right and follow seam and pockets to tufa

FFA: Seb Grieve, 2007

Open project

FA: 2007


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