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Description

Lei Pi Shan is a huge overhanging cliff located just south from the town of Gao Tian. The climbing is typically overhanging and strenuous. With the exception of a just a few climbs the routes are graded 5.11–5.14a.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.12b * Shake Me In The Morning Sport 8m

FA David Brasco 11/200

2
5.12b * Doraemon Sport 10m

FA S Fukuda 1/2007

3
5.11d * Muscle Damage Sport 13m

FA S Kimura 1/2007

4
5.11c ** Name? Sport
5
5.12d * Name ?? Sport

This route is located directly right of Muscle Damage.

FA Chen Gui Wen 3/2008

6
5.10a No Name ??? Sport 10m

This route is located directly left of Jeja. A tricky start eases into steep juggy territory

FA Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005

7
5.11a Jeja Sport 14m
8
5.10d Ma Jie Sport 16m

FA Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005

9
5.12a ** Moxi Village 磨溪村 Sport 16m

FA Abin from Taiwan, Chen Gui Wen

10
5.12a * The Artful Dodger Sport 16m

Equipped by Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005

11

FA Duncan Brown, Jonathon Seagrist, Andrew Hedish 5+12/2009

12
5.11c ** Pickpocket Sport 18m

Appropriately named climb.

Equipped by Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005

13

Great climbing out a steep, pocketed wall. Just left of the Waiting For Sophie and One Love.

14
5.12c Jiao Jiao Time Sport

Extension of "The Power of One"

FA: A Niu, 2011

15
FR 7c+ One Love 唯一的爱 Sport 20m, 8

A one move wonder of a route. Moderate (6b-ish) climbing to a hard boulder problem and some 7a+ moves above the last bolt.

16

The last clip is a bit scary. Most people stop at the belay of One Love. A tough line for the grade.

17

Bolt by Xie WeiCheng

18
5.13a Dream and Hope Sport

FA: Mathieu Bouyoud, 2009

20
5.13b No Ganranty Sport 40m, 20

Extension of Paper Cut

FA: Mathieu Bouyoud, 2009

21

This is just the 7b (at least) pitch to the first anchors. The extended Thunder goes at 8b+, and is a rope stretching 36m or so.

Very thin, technical, and sustained. Called 7b in the book, everyone I know considers it solid 7b+.

22
5.14a ** Thunder 惊雷 Sport
24
5.13d *** Lightning 闪电 Sport

P1 5.13b, P2 5.12d

25

FA: Dave Gliddon & Scott Millton, 2008

26
5.12b *** Singularity 奇异 Sport
27

Extension of Singularity, bolt by Chris Sharma

FA: Wang Qinghua, 2012

28

From Singularity's 4th bolt head right and follow seam and pockets to tufa

FFA: Seb Grieve, 2007

29
5.11d ** Crash and Burn Sport
31
5.11d Kill the Boss Sport
32

Open project

33
5.8 Hanging Garden Sport
34
5.8 Nameless? Sport

FA: 2007

36
5.12d Silent snow Sport

Open trips

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