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Description:

Lei Pi Shan is a huge overhanging cliff located just south from the town of Gao Tian. The climbing is typically overhanging and strenuous. With the exception of a just a few climbs the routes are graded 5.11–5.14a.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 No Name ???

This route is located directly left of Jeja. A tricky start eases into steep juggy territory

FA Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005

5.10a
Sport 10m
2 * Jeja
5.11a
Sport 14m
3 ** Name?
5.11c
Sport
4 * Shake Me In The Morning

FA David Brasco 11/200

5.12b
Sport 8m
5 * Doraemon

FA S Fukuda 1/2007

5.12b
Sport 10m
6 * Muscle Damage

FA S Kimura 1/2007

5.11d
Sport 13m
7 * Name ??

This route is located directly right of Muscle Damage.

FA Chen Gui Wen 3/2008

5.12d
Sport
8 Ma Jie

FA Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005

5.10d
Sport 16m
9 * Moxi Village 磨溪村

FA Abin from Taiwan, Chen Gui Wen

5.12a
Sport 16m
10 ** The Artful Dodger

Equipped by Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005

5.12a
Sport 16m
11 ** Sleight of Hand – Da Bao Yu

FA Duncan Brown, Jonathon Seagrist, Andrew Hedish 5+12/2009

5.12d
Sport
12 ** Pickpocket

Appropriately named climb.

Equipped by Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005

5.11c
Sport 18m
13 Jiao Jiao Time

Extension of "The Power of One"

FA: A Niu, 2011

5.12c
Sport
14 ** The Power Of One 单体的力量

Great climbing out a steep, pocketed wall. Just left of the Waiting For Sophie and One Love.

7a+
Sport 25m , 9
15 One Love 唯一的爱

A one move wonder of a route. Moderate (6b-ish) climbing to a hard boulder problem and some 7a+ moves above the last bolt.

7c+
Sport 20m , 8
16 * Waiting for Sophy 等待苏菲

The last clip is a bit scary. Most people stop at the belay of One Love. A tough line for the grade.

5.11c
Sport 15m
17 Dream and Hope

FA: Mathieu Bouyoud, 2009

5.13a
Sport
18 Waiting for Sophy Extension

Bolt by Xie WeiCheng

5.12+
Sport
19 ** Paper Cutter 切纸机
5.13a
Sport
20 No Ganranty

Extension of Paper Cut

FA: Mathieu Bouyoud, 2009

5.13b
Sport 40m , 20
21 ** Thunder, P1 惊雷下半身

This is just the 7b (at least) pitch to the first anchors. The extended Thunder goes at 8b+, and is a rope stretching 36m or so.

Very thin, technical, and sustained. Called 7b in the book, everyone I know considers it solid 7b+.

5.12c
Sport 25m
22 ** Thunder 惊雷
5.14a
Sport
23 *** Single Life 单身生活
5.13b
Sport
24 *** Lightning 闪电

P1 5.13b, P2 5.12d

5.13d
Sport
25 Karate a Muerte en Torremolinos

FA: Dave Gliddon & Scott Millton, 2008

5.13c
Sport 20m
26 *** Singularity 奇异
5.12a
Sport
27 Red Point Meal 红点饭

Extension of Singularity, bolt by Chris Sharma

FA: Wang Qinghua, 2012

5.14c
Sport
28 ** Honky Tonk 牛仔酒吧

From Singularity's 4th bolt head right and follow seam and pockets to tufa

FFA: Seb Grieve, 2007

5.12d
Sport
29 * Crash and Burn
5.11d
Sport
30 Crash and Burn Extension
5.13a
Sport

Open trips

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