Lei Pi Shan 雷劈山 Crag guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Constantine Dritsas Fred Vanden Bergh adam demmert lindsay 悟天爸爸HSP Jenn Crawford 夜行人西毒 Samuelson81 Matt Schimke

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Lei Pi Shan 雷劈山 30 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Lei Pi Shan 雷劈山 30 routes in Crag

seasonality

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: Lei Pi Shan is a huge overhanging cliff located just south from the town of Gao Tian. The climbing is typically overhanging and strenuous. With the exception of a just a few climbs the routes are graded 5.11–5.14a.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	No Name ??? This route is located directly left of Jeja. A tricky start eases into steep juggy territory FA Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005	5.10a	Sport 10m	o_g 1 years ago With Terry. Constantine Dritsas 2 years ago Nice warm up for this crag. Short and overhung.
2	Jeja	5.11a	Sport 14m	o_g 1 years ago Managed to clean up the dog from last week. Sweet. o_g 1 years ago Pumpy! Missread direction, needed to go left ont the arete.
3	Name?	5.11c	Sport
4	Shake Me In The Morning FA David Brasco 11/200	5.12b	Sport 8m
5	Doraemon FA S Fukuda 1/2007	5.12b	Sport 10m
6	Muscle Damage FA S Kimura 1/2007	5.11d	Sport 13m
7	Name ?? This route is located directly right of Muscle Damage. FA Chen Gui Wen 3/2008	5.12d	Sport
8	Ma Jie FA Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005	5.10d	Sport 16m	Samuelson81 7 months ago Knee bars galore o_g 1 years ago Couldnt grip the holds I wanted near the top. Bailed.
9	Moxi Village 磨溪村 FA Abin from Taiwan, Chen Gui Wen	5.12a	Sport 16m
10	The Artful Dodger Equipped by Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005	5.12a	Sport 16m
11	Sleight of Hand – Da Bao Yu FA Duncan Brown, Jonathon Seagrist, Andrew Hedish 5+12/2009	5.12d	Sport
12	Pickpocket Appropriately named climb. Equipped by Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005	5.11c	Sport 18m	Samuelson81 7 months ago Nice and juggy o_g 1 years ago Got lost in the pockets first try, then got lost and pumped out on a second try. The top wall, af...
13	Jiao Jiao Time Extension of "The Power of One" FA: A Niu, 2011	5.12c	Sport
14	The Power Of One 单体的力量 Great climbing out a steep, pocketed wall. Just left of the Waiting For Sophie and One Love.	7a+	Sport 25m , 9	adam demmert 1 years ago 2nd shot
15	One Love 唯一的爱 A one move wonder of a route. Moderate (6b-ish) climbing to a hard boulder problem and some 7a+ moves above the last bolt.	7c+	Sport 20m , 8	Constantine Dritsas 6 months ago My 1st 7c+ attempt. Clean on lead till the crux bolt. Unable to clean the crux move but got the f... Constantine Dritsas 6 months ago Unable to clean the crux move.
16	Waiting for Sophy 等待苏菲 The last clip is a bit scary. Most people stop at the belay of One Love. A tough line for the grade.	5.11c	Sport 15m	Samuelson81 7 months ago Really nice, end of day though was pumped adam demmert 1 years ago Desperately polished crux
17	Dream and Hope FA: Mathieu Bouyoud, 2009	5.13a	Sport
18	Waiting for Sophy Extension Bolt by Xie WeiCheng	5.12+	Sport
19	Paper Cutter 切纸机	5.13a	Sport
20	No Ganranty Extension of Paper Cut FA: Mathieu Bouyoud, 2009	5.13b	Sport 40m , 20
21	Thunder, P1 惊雷下半身 This is just the 7b (at least) pitch to the first anchors. The extended Thunder goes at 8b+, and is a rope stretching 36m or so. Very thin, technical, and sustained. Called 7b in the book, everyone I know considers it solid 7b+.	5.12c	Sport 25m	adam demmert 1 years ago New route book - "Probably 7c now a hold has broken off "
22	Thunder 惊雷	5.14a	Sport
23	Single Life 单身生活	5.13b	Sport	行人 1 years ago 超赞的线路，就是快挂太难挂了，难点处的得延长后爬起来才容易些。
24	Lightning 闪电 P1 5.13b, P2 5.12d	5.13d	Sport
25	Karate a Muerte en Torremolinos FA: Dave Gliddon & Scott Millton, 2008	5.13c	Sport 20m
26	Singularity 奇异	5.12a	Sport	adam demmert 1 years ago Awesome route!
27	Red Point Meal 红点饭 Extension of Singularity, bolt by Chris Sharma FA: Wang Qinghua, 2012	5.14c	Sport
28	Honky Tonk 牛仔酒吧 From Singularity's 4th bolt head right and follow seam and pockets to tufa FFA: Seb Grieve, 2007	5.12d	Sport	adam demmert 1 years ago Next time
29	Crash and Burn	5.11d	Sport	jjobrien 5 months ago w/Logan Barber jjobrien 5 months ago w/Logan Barber
30	Crash and Burn Extension	5.13a	Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style
5.10a	No Name ???	Sport 10m
5.10d	Ma Jie	Sport 16m
5.11a	Jeja	Sport 14m
5.11c	Name?	Sport
	Pickpocket	Sport 18m
	Waiting for Sophy 等待苏菲	Sport 15m
5.11d	Crash and Burn	Sport
	Muscle Damage	Sport 13m
7a+	The Power Of One 单体的力量	Sport 25m , 9
5.12a	Moxi Village 磨溪村	Sport 16m
	Singularity 奇异	Sport
	The Artful Dodger	Sport 16m
5.12b	Doraemon	Sport 10m
	Shake Me In The Morning	Sport 8m
5.12c	Jiao Jiao Time	Sport
	Thunder, P1 惊雷下半身	Sport 25m
5.12d	Honky Tonk 牛仔酒吧	Sport
	Name ??	Sport
	Sleight of Hand – Da Bao Yu	Sport
5.12+	Waiting for Sophy Extension	Sport
5.13a	Crash and Burn Extension	Sport
	Dream and Hope	Sport
	Paper Cutter 切纸机	Sport
7c+	One Love 唯一的爱	Sport 20m , 8
5.13b	No Ganranty	Sport 40m , 20
	Single Life 单身生活	Sport
5.13c	Karate a Muerte en Torremolinos	Sport 20m
5.13d	Lightning 闪电	Sport
5.14a	Thunder 惊雷	Sport
5.14c	Red Point Meal 红点饭	Sport

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Crag Guide for Lei Pi Shan 雷劈山

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Table of contents

1. Lei Pi Shan 雷劈山 30 routes in Crag

2. Index by grade