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Table of contents

1. Lei Pi Shan 36 routes in Crag

All Sport

Long/Lat: 110.466451, 24.700419


Lei Pi Shan is a huge overhanging cliff located just south from the town of Gao Tian. The climbing is typically overhanging and strenuous. With the exception of a just a few climbs the routes are graded 5.11–5.14a.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Shake Me In The Morning

FA David Brasco 11/200

5.12b Sport 8m
2 * Doraemon

FA S Fukuda 1/2007

5.12b Sport 10m
3 * Muscle Damage

FA S Kimura 1/2007

5.11d Sport 13m
4 ** Name? 5.11c Sport
5 * Name ??

This route is located directly right of Muscle Damage.

FA Chen Gui Wen 3/2008

5.12d Sport
6 No Name ???

This route is located directly left of Jeja. A tricky start eases into steep juggy territory

FA Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005

5.10a Sport 10m
7 Jeja 5.11a Sport 14m
8 Ma Jie

FA Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005

5.10d Sport 16m
9 ** Moxi Village 磨溪村

FA Abin from Taiwan, Chen Gui Wen

5.12a Sport 16m
10 * The Artful Dodger

Equipped by Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005

5.12a Sport 16m
11 ** Sleight of Hand – Da Bao Yu

FA Duncan Brown, Jonathon Seagrist, Andrew Hedish 5+12/2009

5.12d Sport
12 ** Pickpocket

Appropriately named climb.

Equipped by Blaz Germek, Liu Tao 4/2005

5.11c Sport 18m
13 *** The Power Of One 单体的力量

Great climbing out a steep, pocketed wall. Just left of the Waiting For Sophie and One Love.

{FR} 7a+ Sport 25m, 9
14 Jiao Jiao Time

Extension of "The Power of One"

FA: A Niu, 2011

5.12c Sport
15 One Love 唯一的爱

A one move wonder of a route. Moderate (6b-ish) climbing to a hard boulder problem and some 7a+ moves above the last bolt.

{FR} 7c+ Sport 20m, 8
16 * Waiting for Sophy 等待苏菲

The last clip is a bit scary. Most people stop at the belay of One Love. A tough line for the grade.

5.11c Sport 15m
17 Waiting for Sophy Extension

Bolt by Xie WeiCheng

5.12+ Sport 2
18 Dream and Hope

FA: Mathieu Bouyoud, 2009

5.13a Sport
19 ** Paper Cutter 切纸机 5.13a Sport
20 No Ganranty

Extension of Paper Cut

FA: Mathieu Bouyoud, 2009

5.13b Sport 40m, 20
21 ** Thunder, P1 惊雷下半身

This is just the 7b (at least) pitch to the first anchors. The extended Thunder goes at 8b+, and is a rope stretching 36m or so.

Very thin, technical, and sustained. Called 7b in the book, everyone I know considers it solid 7b+. Update. 7c in 2013 guidebook.

5.12d FR:7c Sport 25m
22 ** Thunder 惊雷 5.14a Sport
23 *** Single Life 单身生活 5.13b Sport
24 *** Lightning 闪电

P1 5.13b, P2 5.12d

5.13d Sport 2
25 Karate a Muerte en Torremolinos

FA: Dave Gliddon & Scott Millton, 2008

5.13c Sport 20m
26 *** Singularity 奇异 5.12b Sport
27 Red Point Meal 红点饭

Extension of Singularity, bolt by Chris Sharma

FA: Wang Qinghua, 2012

5.14c Sport
28 ** Honky Tonk 牛仔酒吧

From Singularity's 4th bolt head right and follow seam and pockets to tufa

FFA: Seb Grieve, 2007

5.12d Sport
29 ** Crash and Burn 5.11d Sport
30 Crash and Burn Extension 5.13a Sport
31 Kill the Boss 5.11d Sport
32 Dousche baguette

Open project

33 Hanging Garden 5.8 Sport
34 Nameless?

FA: 2007

5.8 Sport
35 And now for something completely different 5.8 Sport
36 Silent snow 5.12d Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5.8 And now for something completely different Sport
Hanging Garden Sport
Nameless? Sport
5.10a No Name ??? Sport 10m
5.10d Ma Jie Sport 16m
5.11a Jeja Sport 14m
5.11c ** Name? Sport
** Pickpocket Sport 18m
* Waiting for Sophy 等待苏菲 Sport 15m
5.11d ** Crash and Burn Sport
Kill the Boss Sport
* Muscle Damage Sport 13m
7a+ *** The Power Of One 单体的力量 Sport 25m, 9
5.12a ** Moxi Village 磨溪村 Sport 16m
* The Artful Dodger Sport 16m
5.12b * Doraemon Sport 10m
* Shake Me In The Morning Sport 8m
*** Singularity 奇异 Sport
5.12c Jiao Jiao Time Sport
5.12d ** Honky Tonk 牛仔酒吧 Sport
* Name ?? Sport
Silent snow Sport
** Sleight of Hand – Da Bao Yu Sport
** Thunder, P1 惊雷下半身 Sport 25m
5.12+ Waiting for Sophy Extension Sport 2
5.13a Crash and Burn Extension Sport
Dream and Hope Sport
** Paper Cutter 切纸机 Sport
7c+ One Love 唯一的爱 Sport 20m, 8
5.13b No Ganranty Sport 40m, 20
*** Single Life 单身生活 Sport
5.13c Karate a Muerte en Torremolinos Sport 20m
5.13d *** Lightning 闪电 Sport 2
5.14a ** Thunder 惊雷 Sport
5.14c Red Point Meal 红点饭 Sport
? Dousche baguette Sport