The Egg 鸡蛋山 Crag guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Constantine Dritsas Vanessa Wills Mark Ashmore Boyd Robinson Matt Tranter Andrew Clark Fred Vanden Bergh lindsay Simon Wilson Chris George

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. The Egg 鸡蛋山 57 in Crag
- 1.1. East Face 5 in Area
- 1.2. North East face 19 in Area
- 1.3. North Face 23 in Area
- 1.4. West Face 8 in Area
2. Index by grade

1. The Egg 鸡蛋山 57 routes in Crag

seasonality

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Description:: The Egg is probably the most popular crag in Yangshuo and for good reasons. There are at least 37 routes on high quality rock with grades ranging from 5.7 to 5.12b. The climbs are mostly single pitch with a few multi pitch routes as well. The crag incorporates the East Face, North East Face, North Face and West Face. Because The Egg faces three sides it is possible to climb in either the sun or shade at any time of the day. The North and West faces stay mostly dry in the rain.

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Name?	5.10d	Unknown
2		Unnamed	5.10c	Unknown

1.1. East Face 5 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Crispy	5.9	Sport 29m	Constantine Dritsas 2 years ago Nice climb.
2	Straw Noise Sheep Ernie Technical climbing	5.10b	Sport 26m	Constantine Dritsas 2 years ago Very nice climb
3	Eggstatic 1st Pitch - 5.11a 2nd Pitch - 5.11c The 1st pitch is technical climbing on small holds.	5.11c	Sport 45m	adam demmert 1 years ago done in one pitch, 2nd half is more like 7a
4	Chocolate Milk Crack	5.9	Sport 26m	jeremy 5 years ago nice 5.9
5	Cover Boy Meets Mr Hilti Steep bouldery start	5.9	Sport 26m	Constantine Dritsas 2 years ago Found the steep bouldery start easy, struggled with the small sharp holds at the top.

1.2. North East face 19 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,?

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	The Deviant Direct Start	17	Sport 25m	Andrew Clark 2 years ago Slightly spicy start due to missing first hanger.
2	Name? First pitch	21	Unknown 15m
3	Name? Second Pitch	22	Unknown 15m
4	Variant second pitch	24	Unknown 15m
5	Deviant Pitch 2	16	Sport
6	Deviant Pitch 3	15	Sport
7	Bad Egg	23	Sport 25m	. 1 years ago The duck farmers and water buffalos are rad. I want to be a duck herder. Constantine Dritsas 2 years ago 1st attempt, fell off down low. 2nd attempt, fell off up high. 3rd attempt, bingo.
8	Duck	23	Sport 24m	Constantine Dritsas 2 years ago Excellent finger face climb. Vanessa Wills 4 years ago some crimps
9	Corner	23	Unknown 25m	. 1 years ago Alone in a never ending shopping mall.
10	Wonderful World FA: Paul Collis, Bob Keaty,	5.10c	Sport 33m	Jenn Crawford 6 months ago Fun climb, went out far right on the crux and got stuck trying to traverse back left. One rest. S... Samuelson81 6 months ago Classic climb, but stiff for the grade
11	The Deviant Direct 1st Pitch: 5.9 2nd Pitch: 5.8 3rd Pitch: 5.7	5.9	Sport 81m
12	The Never Ending Story 1st Pitch: 5.10c 2nd Pitch: 5.10d Can be led as one pitch to the top anchor and descended in two rappels.	5.10d	Sport 40m	Constantine Dritsas 2 years ago 1st pitch, 5.10c Constantine Dritsas 2 years ago 2nd pitch, 5.10d
13	Da Mogwai 1st Pitch: 5.10c 2nd Pitch: 5.11d 1st pitch as the same as The Never Ending Story. Can be led as one pitch to the top anchor and descended in two rappels.	5.11d	Sport 40m	adam demmert 1 years ago Done as one pitch, 2nd pitch felt harder maybe 7a+, great climbing, great long route!
14	The Deviant, Original Start This pitch goes to the belay on the large ledge at 25m but if you are not doing the upper pitches you can avoid the traverse by lowering of the belay at 22m.	5.9	Sport 22m
15	Pump Brewster The big holds are on the left	5.11a	Sport 21m	Constantine Dritsas 2 years ago A little scary at the top if you follow the arête directly.
16	Mr Greenwood Maybe 5.12c	5.12b	Sport 21m	. 1 years ago Radiohead are the best band ever. This climb is rad.
17	Sha Bi Ab Bi	5.10a	Sport 21m	. 1 years ago I need to talk way too much.
18	Absent Friends	5.9	Sport 21m	Samuelson81 6 months ago Fun climbing . 1 years ago I couldn't think of a better way to sum up china!
19	Too Much Ecstasy	5.10c	Sport 22m

1.3. North Face 23 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Pumpy Brewster I'm pretty sure this is supposed to be "Pumpy Brewster", the 6b+ (though, really more like 6a+) to the left of Mr. Greenwood. It follows the obvious arete up the left side of the face -- it would be quite a good route if not for the plethora of large and line-bending holds to the left. The end result is a route that looks pretty nice from the ground, but doesn't climb nearly so nice in practice.	23	Sport
2	Mr Greenwood FA: Colton Linderman,	5.12b	Sport	adam demmert 1 years ago 2nd Shot getting harder prob 7b+ now
3	ShabiAbbi	20	Sport 20m
4	Absent Friends FA: Paul Collis, Andrew Christenson, 2007	17	Sport 20m	o_g 1 years ago Tricky start.
5	Consolation Prize	5.10b	Sport 20m	Tony Williams 4 years ago Good traverse moves
6	Hustlers Roof	5.11b	Sport 20m	Constantine Dritsas 6 months ago Bouldery crux and a cool rooflet finish.
7	Way to Hilldurado	5.13a	Sport
8	"Three's a Crowd" aka "The Wiggle"	5.12b	Sport
9	Final Decade	5.10d	Sport 18m	Davo 4 years ago Awesome moves! Vanessa Wills 4 years ago didnt plan to fall- but there was no 5.10 jug on this one
10	New Decade Hard thin face climbing up the pillar right of TFD. Shares the start and the chain with TFD. FA: Yann Gauthier, 2006	5.12a	Sport	o_g 1 years ago God damn you New Decade...... First you tease me, then you humiliate me, then this year, you inju... adam demmert 1 years ago Sharp - didn't like
11	Poser's Lonely Reunion	5.10c	Sport 22m	Davo 4 years ago Cool photo-op. Davo 5 years ago Great exposure over cave.
12	Unnamed 5.8	5.9	Sport 27m
13	Rooster Booster	5.10a	Sport 31m	Constantine Dritsas 6 months ago Warm Up Andrew Clark 2 years ago Got 2/3 of the way up this and ran out of gas.
14	All the King's Horses	5.9	Sport 27m	Tony Williams 4 years ago Long jeremy 5 years ago an awesome 5.9 with a sweet overhang section, a must do.
15	Alice in Wonderland	17	Sport 9m	Jenn Crawford 6 months ago Tried again to see if I missed something. Nope, just a tad sandbagged Jenn Crawford 6 months ago Really short and simple, but I'll be damned if I've ever seen such an easy grade (5.7) with so fe...
16	Unnamed 5.11a Excellent face climbing, long moves on small holds.	5.11a	Sport 20m	Jenn Crawford 6 months ago Really reachy small slopey face climbing. good stuff Constantine Dritsas 2 years ago Brilliant Face Climb
17	Unnamed 5.11d	5.11d	Sport
18	Rooster Booster This is on the north face not the west	5.10a	Sport	Jenn Crawford 7 months ago Don't lead if you think you might fall. Decent climb but the falls could be bad
19	All the Kings Horses This is on the north face not the west	5.9	Sport 27m
20	Chuck if you want to FA: Dave Gliddon,	5.11d	Sport 22m	Constantine Dritsas 2 years ago 1 super reach move cranking from a small crimper.
21	FinalDecade	22	Sport 18m	Vanessa Wills 4 years ago A 22. Sustained and pumpy
22	New Decade	5.12a	Sport
23	Posers Lonely Return	5.10d	Sport

1.4. West Face 8 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Sport

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Chicken Run	5.10b	Sport 27m	Constantine Dritsas 2 years ago Stella.
2	Eggstreme Eggsposure	5.10b	Sport 27m	Constantine Dritsas 6 months ago Photo Op Joe Gray 4 years ago Sharp rock!
3	Handsaw Returns	5.10a	Sport 27m	Boyd Robinson 2 years ago Good and sustained.
4	From Finland With Love	5.10d	Sport	Constantine Dritsas 2 years ago Didnt enjoy this climb. Davo 5 years ago Scary to go direct up high.
5	Let Me See Your War Face!	5.11d	Sport	Ryan Weller 7 months ago while belaying the leader kicked a fist sized rock towards me and i leaped off the ledge into the...
6	Pulling Perfection	5.10c	Sport	Ryan Weller 7 months ago great warmup
7	Helter Incendo Cranking fun!	5.10c	Sport 27m , 13
8	Trust Issues and Scar Tissue	5.9	Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style	Area
15	Deviant Pitch 3	Sport	1.2. North East face
16	Deviant Pitch 2	Sport	1.2. North East face
5.9	Chocolate Milk Crack	Sport 26m	1.1. East Face
	Cover Boy Meets Mr Hilti	Sport 26m	1.1. East Face
	Crispy	Sport 29m	1.1. East Face
	Absent Friends	Sport 21m	1.2. North East face
	The Deviant Direct	Sport 81m	1.2. North East face
	The Deviant, Original Start	Sport 22m	1.2. North East face
	All the King's Horses	Sport 27m	1.3. North Face
	All the Kings Horses	Sport 27m	1.3. North Face
	Unnamed 5.8	Sport 27m	1.3. North Face
	Trust Issues and Scar Tissue	Trad	1.4. West Face
17	The Deviant Direct Start	Sport 25m	1.2. North East face
	Absent Friends	Sport 20m	1.3. North Face
	Alice in Wonderland	Sport 9m	1.3. North Face
5.10a	Sha Bi Ab Bi	Sport 21m	1.2. North East face
	Rooster Booster	Sport 31m	1.3. North Face
	Rooster Booster	Sport	1.3. North Face
	Handsaw Returns	Sport 27m	1.4. West Face
5.10b	Straw Noise Sheep Ernie	Sport 26m	1.1. East Face
	Consolation Prize	Sport 20m	1.3. North Face
	Chicken Run	Sport 27m	1.4. West Face
	Eggstreme Eggsposure	Sport 27m	1.4. West Face
5.10c	Unnamed	Unknown	1. The Egg 鸡蛋山
	Too Much Ecstasy	Sport 22m	1.2. North East face
	Wonderful World	Sport 33m	1.2. North East face
	Poser's Lonely Reunion	Sport 22m	1.3. North Face
	Helter Incendo	Sport 27m , 13	1.4. West Face
	Pulling Perfection	Sport	1.4. West Face
20	ShabiAbbi	Sport 20m	1.3. North Face
5.10d	Name?	Unknown	1. The Egg 鸡蛋山
	The Never Ending Story	Sport 40m	1.2. North East face
	Posers Lonely Return	Sport	1.3. North Face
	From Finland With Love	Sport	1.4. West Face
21	Name? First pitch	Unknown 15m	1.2. North East face
5.11a	Pump Brewster	Sport 21m	1.2. North East face
22	FinalDecade	Sport 18m	1.3. North Face
5.10d	Final Decade	Sport 18m	1.3. North Face
5.11a	Unnamed 5.11a	Sport 20m	1.3. North Face
22	Name? Second Pitch	Unknown 15m	1.2. North East face
5.11c	Eggstatic	Sport 45m	1.1. East Face
5.11b	Hustlers Roof	Sport 20m	1.3. North Face
23	Bad Egg	Sport 25m	1.2. North East face
	Corner	Unknown 25m	1.2. North East face
	Duck	Sport 24m	1.2. North East face
	Pumpy Brewster	Sport	1.3. North Face
5.11d	Da Mogwai	Sport 40m	1.2. North East face
	Chuck if you want to	Sport 22m	1.3. North Face
	Unnamed 5.11d	Sport	1.3. North Face
	Let Me See Your War Face!	Sport	1.4. West Face
24	Variant second pitch	Unknown 15m	1.2. North East face
5.12a	New Decade	Sport	1.3. North Face
	New Decade	Sport	1.3. North Face
5.12b	Mr Greenwood	Sport 21m	1.2. North East face
	"Three's a Crowd" aka "The Wiggle"	Sport	1.3. North Face
	Mr Greenwood	Sport	1.3. North Face
5.13a	Way to Hilldurado	Sport	1.3. North Face

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