This crag is unlocated

If you know where this crag is the please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. Crag locations are available in our mobile app. Contact us if you have any issues.

Description

The Middle Finger is an imposing tower consisting of the North Face and South Face. The climbs on the North Face are in the shade until evening whilst the other routes are in the shade till noon.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

Climb is located on the North Face.

1st pitch: 5.11c, 25m, step off a boulder into a corner and follow it to a break. 2nd pitch: 5.10c, 25m, traverse right to the base of a crack. 3rd pitch: 5.10b, 30m climb crack and wall to a ledge. 4th pitch: 5.10c, climb wall tending slightly leftward.

Descent is by abseil, 2 x 70m ropes allows descent in one abseil to the big ledge which is escaped via the tunnel at the left hand end.

2

Climb is located on the North Face.

May have bolted belays.

3
5.10d ** Pluto Trad

Climb is located on the North Face.

Traditional protection with bolted abseil anchors. Two ropes needed for descent.

4
5.10+ Jasmine Trad

No information available

5
5.10 Hippie Hunt Trad

No information available

6

Located on the South Face: Exposed climbing up an unbelievable line.

7

Located on the South Face.

8
5.10b ** Chicken Street Trad 60m

Located on the South Face: Good crack that takes gear well. One bolt at th crux of the 2nd pitch.

9
5.10d * Original Tufa Sport 30m

Located on the South Face.

10
5.10b *** Life in the Fast Lane Sport 30m

Located on the South Face: The easiest access pitch, a good warm up and eye opener for the rest of the Middle Finger

11
5.11d ** limber's Need Only Apply Sport 30m

Located on the South Face: Intense route. Shares the start and anchor with 'Life in the Fast Lane'.

12
5.8 Clavell Trad

Located on the South Face: Only climb the entire traverse if you want to scare yourself.

13
5.12c ** Scream Machine Sport 15m

Located on the South Face: Belay from ledge.

14

Located on the South Face: Good sustained climbing.

15

Located on the South Face: Corner to the left, finish by pulling hard on a hollow flake.

16
5.11a ** Behive Crack Trad 25m

A pure crack that takes excellent gear. Move right at the overhang and up.

17
5.11a *** Erin's Way Sport 25m, 7

Super face climbing.

18
5.11b ** Monkey Tail Sport 25m

F.A. A Niu, A Hedesh

19
5.11a * Hobo Life Sport 25m

A reach and strenuous blunt arête followed by a blocky overhang.

20
5.12d ** The Devils Goatee Sport 30m

Technical and balancy.

21
5.12c * Happy Diddler Sport 35m

Tufa crack. Use the anchor half way to lower off.

22
FR 7b+ * Spunk Shui Sport 35m

Technical face climbing. Use the anchor half way to lower off.

23
5.10b Beer Belly Sport 15m

This is a kiddies access pitch to bypass the 3 bolt start of Happy Diddler. Climb the route then belay from the anchor half way. By skipping the crux, Happy Diddler becomes a 3 smile 20m 5.11a and Spunk Shui becomes 5.12a.

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.