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Description

The Middle Finger is an imposing tower consisting of the North Face and South Face. The climbs on the North Face are in the shade until evening whilst the other routes are in the shade till noon.

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb is located on the North Face.

1st pitch: 5.11c, 25m, step off a boulder into a corner and follow it to a break. 2nd pitch: 5.10c, 25m, traverse right to the base of a crack. 3rd pitch: 5.10b, 30m climb crack and wall to a ledge. 4th pitch: 5.10c, climb wall tending slightly leftward.

Descent is by abseil, 2 x 70m ropes allows descent in one abseil to the big ledge which is escaped via the tunnel at the left hand end.

Climb is located on the North Face.

May have bolted belays.

Climb is located on the North Face.

Traditional protection with bolted abseil anchors. Two ropes needed for descent.

No information available

No information available

Located on the South Face: Exposed climbing up an unbelievable line.

Located on the South Face.

Located on the South Face: Good crack that takes gear well. One bolt at th crux of the 2nd pitch.

Located on the South Face.

Located on the South Face: The easiest access pitch, a good warm up and eye opener for the rest of the Middle Finger

Located on the South Face: Intense route. Shares the start and anchor with 'Life in the Fast Lane'.

Located on the South Face: Only climb the entire traverse if you want to scare yourself.

Located on the South Face: Belay from ledge.

Located on the South Face: Good sustained climbing.

Located on the South Face: Corner to the left, finish by pulling hard on a hollow flake.

A pure crack that takes excellent gear. Move right at the overhang and up.

Super face climbing.

F.A. A Niu, A Hedesh

A reach and strenuous blunt arête followed by a blocky overhang.

Technical and balancy.

Tufa crack. Use the anchor half way to lower off.

Technical face climbing. Use the anchor half way to lower off.

This is a kiddies access pitch to bypass the 3 bolt start of Happy Diddler. Climb the route then belay from the anchor half way. By skipping the crux, Happy Diddler becomes a 3 smile 20m 5.11a and Spunk Shui becomes 5.12a.

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Middle Finger.