A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. The Middle Finger 23 routes in Crag

Sport and Trad

The Middle Finger is an imposing tower consisting of the North Face and South Face. The climbs on the North Face are in the shade until evening whilst the other routes are in the shade till noon.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alex's New Hair Cut

Climb is located on the North Face.

1st pitch: 5.11c, 25m, step off a boulder into a corner and follow it to a break. 2nd pitch: 5.10c, 25m, traverse right to the base of a crack. 3rd pitch: 5.10b, 30m climb crack and wall to a ledge. 4th pitch: 5.10c, climb wall tending slightly leftward.

Descent is by abseil, 2 x 70m ropes allows descent in one abseil to the big ledge which is escaped via the tunnel at the left hand end.

5.11c Trad 4
2 Mystery Wall

Climb is located on the North Face.

May have bolted belays.

3 ** Pluto

Climb is located on the North Face.

Traditional protection with bolted abseil anchors. Two ropes needed for descent.

5.10d Trad 2
4 Jasmine

No information available

5.10+ Trad 8
5 Hippie Hunt

No information available

5.10 Trad 3
6 *** Finger Lickin Good Pitch 1

Located on the South Face: Exposed climbing up an unbelievable line.

5.11b Sport 40m
7 *** Finger Lickin Good Pitch 2

Located on the South Face.

5.12b Sport 28m
8 ** Chicken Street

Located on the South Face: Good crack that takes gear well. One bolt at th crux of the 2nd pitch.

5.10b Trad 60m 2
9 * Original Tufa

Located on the South Face.

5.10d Sport 30m
10 *** Life in the Fast Lane

Located on the South Face: The easiest access pitch, a good warm up and eye opener for the rest of the Middle Finger

5.10b Sport 30m
11 ** limber's Need Only Apply

Located on the South Face: Intense route. Shares the start and anchor with 'Life in the Fast Lane'.

5.11d Sport 30m
12 Clavell

Located on the South Face: Only climb the entire traverse if you want to scare yourself.

5.8 Trad
13 ** Scream Machine

Located on the South Face: Belay from ledge.

5.12c Sport 15m
14 ** Dude Where's My Drill? 1st Pitch

Located on the South Face: Good sustained climbing.

5.10d Sport 8m
15 Dude Where's My Drill? 2nd Pitch

Located on the South Face: Corner to the left, finish by pulling hard on a hollow flake.

5.9 Sport 23m
16 ** Behive Crack

A pure crack that takes excellent gear. Move right at the overhang and up.

5.11a Trad 25m
17 *** Erin's Way

Super face climbing.

5.11a Sport 25m, 7
18 ** Monkey Tail

F.A. A Niu, A Hedesh

5.11b Sport 25m
19 * Hobo Life

A reach and strenuous blunt arête followed by a blocky overhang.

5.11a Sport 25m
20 ** The Devils Goatee

Technical and balancy.

5.12d Sport 30m
21 * Happy Diddler

Tufa crack. Use the anchor half way to lower off.

5.12c Sport 35m
22 * Spunk Shui

Technical face climbing. Use the anchor half way to lower off.

FR:7b+ Sport 35m
23 Beer Belly

This is a kiddies access pitch to bypass the 3 bolt start of Happy Diddler. Climb the route then belay from the anchor half way. By skipping the crux, Happy Diddler becomes a 3 smile 20m 5.11a and Spunk Shui becomes 5.12a.

5.10b Sport 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5.8 Clavell Trad
5.9 Dude Where's My Drill? 2nd Pitch Sport 23m
5.10b Beer Belly Sport 15m
** Chicken Street Trad 60m 2
*** Life in the Fast Lane Sport 30m
5.10 Hippie Hunt Trad 3
5.10d ** Dude Where's My Drill? 1st Pitch Sport 8m
* Original Tufa Sport 30m
** Pluto Trad 2
5.10+ Jasmine Trad 8
5.11a ** Behive Crack Trad 25m
*** Erin's Way Sport 25m, 7
* Hobo Life Sport 25m
5.11b *** Finger Lickin Good Pitch 1 Sport 40m
** Monkey Tail Sport 25m
5.11c Alex's New Hair Cut Trad 4
5.11d ** limber's Need Only Apply Sport 30m
5.12b *** Finger Lickin Good Pitch 2 Sport 28m
5.12c * Happy Diddler Sport 35m
** Scream Machine Sport 15m
7b+ * Spunk Shui Sport 35m
5.12d ** The Devils Goatee Sport 30m
? Mystery Wall Trad