The Middle Finger 中指峰 Crag guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Constantine Dritsas

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1. The Middle Finger 中指峰 23 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. The Middle Finger 中指峰 23 routes in Crag

Summary:: Sport,Trad
Description:: The Middle Finger is an imposing tower consisting of the North Face and South Face. The climbs on the North Face are in the shade until evening whilst the other routes are in the shade till noon.

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Alex's New Hair Cut Climb is located on the North Face. 1st pitch: 5.11c, 25m, step off a boulder into a corner and follow it to a break. 2nd pitch: 5.10c, 25m, traverse right to the base of a crack. 3rd pitch: 5.10b, 30m climb crack and wall to a ledge. 4th pitch: 5.10c, climb wall tending slightly leftward. Descent is by abseil, 2 x 70m ropes allows descent in one abseil to the big ledge which is escaped via the tunnel at the left hand end.	5.11c	Trad
2	Mystery Wall Climb is located on the North Face. May have bolted belays.		Trad
3	Pluto Climb is located on the North Face. Traditional protection with bolted abseil anchors. Two ropes needed for descent.	5.10d	Trad
4	Jasmine No information available	5.10+	Trad
5	Hippie Hunt No information available	5.10	Trad
6	Finger Lickin Good Pitch 1 Located on the South Face: Exposed climbing up an unbelievable line.	5.11b	Sport 40m
7	Finger Lickin Good Pitch 2 Located on the South Face.	5.12b	Sport 28m
8	Chicken Street Located on the South Face: Good crack that takes gear well. One bolt at th crux of the 2nd pitch.	5.10b	Trad 60m
9	Original Tufa Located on the South Face.	5.10d	Sport 30m
10	Life in the Fast Lane Located on the South Face: The easiest access pitch, a good warm up and eye opener for the rest of the Middle Finger	5.10b	Sport 30m
11	limber's Need Only Apply Located on the South Face: Intense route. Shares the start and anchor with 'Life in the Fast Lane'.	5.11d	Sport 30m
12	Clavell Located on the South Face: Only climb the entire traverse if you want to scare yourself.	5.8	Trad
13	Scream Machine Located on the South Face: Belay from ledge.	5.12c	Sport 15m
14	Dude Where's My Drill? 1st Pitch Located on the South Face: Good sustained climbing.	5.10d	Sport 8m
15	Dude Where's My Drill? 2nd Pitch Located on the South Face: Corner to the left, finish by pulling hard on a hollow flake.	5.9	Sport 23m
16	Behive Crack A pure crack that takes excellent gear. Move right at the overhang and up.	5.11a	Trad 25m
17	Erin's Way Super face climbing.	5.11a	Sport 25m , 7
18	Monkey Tail F.A. A Niu, A Hedesh	5.11b	Sport 25m
19	Hobo Life A reach and strenuous blunt arête followed by a blocky overhang.	5.11a	Sport 25m
20	The Devils Goatee Technical and balancy.	5.12d	Sport 30m
21	Happy Diddler Tufa crack. Use the anchor half way to lower off.	5.12c	Sport 35m
22	Spunk Shui Technical face climbing. Use the anchor half way to lower off.	7b+	Sport 35m
23	Beer Belly This is a kiddies access pitch to bypass the 3 bolt start of Happy Diddler. Climb the route then belay from the anchor half way. By skipping the crux, Happy Diddler becomes a 3 smile 20m 5.11a and Spunk Shui becomes 5.12a.	5.10b	Sport 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style
5.8	Clavell	Trad
5.9	Dude Where's My Drill? 2nd Pitch	Sport 23m
5.10b	Beer Belly	Sport 15m
	Chicken Street	Trad 60m
	Life in the Fast Lane	Sport 30m
5.10	Hippie Hunt	Trad
5.10d	Dude Where's My Drill? 1st Pitch	Sport 8m
	Original Tufa	Sport 30m
	Pluto	Trad
5.10+	Jasmine	Trad
5.11a	Behive Crack	Trad 25m
	Erin's Way	Sport 25m , 7
	Hobo Life	Sport 25m
5.11b	Finger Lickin Good Pitch 1	Sport 40m
	Monkey Tail	Sport 25m
5.11c	Alex's New Hair Cut	Trad
5.11d	limber's Need Only Apply	Sport 30m
5.12b	Finger Lickin Good Pitch 2	Sport 28m
5.12c	Happy Diddler	Sport 35m
	Scream Machine	Sport 15m
7b+	Spunk Shui	Sport 35m
5.12d	The Devils Goatee	Sport 30m
?	Mystery Wall	Trad

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Crag Guide for The Middle Finger 中指峰

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Table of contents

1. The Middle Finger 中指峰 23 routes in Crag

2. Index by grade