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Description:

White Mountain is an impressive crag dominated by harder grade climbs. The massive wall is overhung and the climbing is both physical and sustained. The crag is South facing and is in the sun all day, however during summer some areas are in shade. The crag stays mostly dry during rain.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 The Tale of the Talus

FA: Seb Grieve 10/2006

5.11d
Sport
2 ** Blue Magic / Torniquet 蓝色魔法

Scramble through caves to find the start.

FA: French Nike Team ACG

5.13d
Sport 16m
3 Spicy Dumpling

Branches off Spicy Noodle. Equipper: Chris Sharma

5.14d
Sport
4 * The Axeman

FA: Neil Gresham 10/2006

5.13b
Sport
5 Spicy Noodle 辣米粉

FA: Chris Sharma

5.14c
Sport
6 * Chinaclimb 中国攀

FFA: A Bon 2008

5.14b
Sport
7 Wento Xino

FA: Oscar Gomez, 2009

5.14b
Sport
8 Happy End

FA: Oscar Gomez, 2009

5.14a
Sport
9 Unnamed 7c+

Sparse bolting in upper half

7c+
Unknown
10 Another unnamed 7c+

Shares same crux as previous

7c+
Unknown
11 ** Unnamed 7a
5.12-
Unknown
12 * Aiding and Abetting

Super pumpy climbing up left trending line of "portholes". Start about 10m left of CW, where tufa flow feature reaches the ground.

FA: James Murphy, Paul Collis, 2004

5.11c
Sport
13 French Gangster 法国流氓

Starts at cave belay at the top of Aiding and Abetting.

5.14a
Sport
14 Korea No.1 韩国头号

FA: JH, Kim 2008?

5.13b
Sport
15 The Big Sun 大太阳
5.11b
Sport
16 Two in the Pink, One in the Stink 六指琴魔

Breaks L out of China White then up.

7b+
Unknown
17 * China White 中国白
5.12b
Unknown
18 ** Gin and Tonic 金汤力

Same start as Tsing Tao Beer

5.13c
Sport
19 ** Tsing Tao Beer 青岛啤酒
5.13a
Unknown
20 ** Gang of Four 黑鬼
5.12d
Unknown
21 ** White Devil 白鬼
5.12d
Unknown
22 *** Yangshuo Hotel 阳朔旅馆

Long classic, with the hardest moves close to the ground. Apparently it is possible to get down on a 60m rope (Fire Birds belay can be used if you are struggling).

FA: Shinsuke Kimura, 2006

5.12b
Sport 34m
23 * Fire Bird 火鸟
5.10d
Sport
24 The Missing Link Pitch 1
5.10a
Sport 15m
25 ** The Missing Link Pitch 2
5.12
Unknown
26 ** The Wall of Attrition

Another long pumper. As the angle eases, the holds get smaller.

FA: Paul Collis, Cheng Xie Wei, Liu Tao, 2004

5.11c
Sport
27 * Cave Man Pitch 1 山顶洞人

The 1st pitch is 5.10d up to 13 meters and the belay is located just below a small cave (n.b this belay seems to have been removed as at April 2012). The climb has a bouldery start, a high crux move, and is super polished and pumpy.

FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei, Liu Tao, 2004

5.10d
Sport 13m
28 ** Cave Man Pitch 2 山顶洞人

The 2nd pitch involves nice face climbing on reasonable holds. As at April 2012, the belay at the top of pitch 1 has been removed, and the route is now climbed as a long single pitch.

FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei, Liu Tao, 2004

5.11a
Sport 20m
29 ** West Streak

FA: Grant Farquhar 11/2005

5.12a
Sport
30 * Lily Li Session
5.12b
Sport
31 *** Lucky Zone 幸运区域

Powerful crux on pockets at the roof.

5.12c
Sport
32 *** Devil Sticks 魔鬼棒

Powerful moves through the roof, then a technical crux getting established above the roof on gastons and crimps. An easier but pumpy finish makes this an excellent route. Starts immediatly left of SD, and shares its DBB.

FA: Liu Xi Nan, Chen Xie Wei, 2005

5.12b
Sport
33 ** The Stone Dog 石狗

An interesting crux down low leads to easy nice moves, not too physical with a few good rests available.

5.10c
Sport 25m
34 * Wow Wow Mei Ao

Nice climbing, nice line.

FA Torsten Gedicke, Susann Hantscho, Elke Schmitz 6/2006

6c+
Sport 30m
35 ** The Phoenix 凤凰

Crimpy face climbing with a high crux.

5.12c
Sport
36 *** The Tic Tac Smuggler 啲嗒糖走私贩

Crux is above the cave and after the 5th bolt an easier option moves right then up.

5.12d
Sport
37 *** Face Route

As the name suggests this climb offers excellent balancey face climbing on small holds.

5.11a
Sport 27m
38 *** Merry Christmas 圣诞快乐

Excellent climbing on pockets.

5.11b
Sport 25m
39 Happy Chanukah 光明节快乐

FA: Zac & Katia Pisetzky 12/2005

5.12b
Sport
40 * Captain Debauchery 西门庆

Tuff tufa climbing.

5.11c
Sport
41 *** The Comedians 喜剧演员
5.10c
Sport 28m
42 * Girl With a Machete 手持开山刀的女孩

Crack and groove climbing.

5.11d
Sport
43 Slippery Nipple 滑溜的乳头

Steep crimpy and technical.

5.13a
Sport
44 Abinormal

Tufa, jugs and crimps.

5.11b
Sport
45 * Liang Ba Sua Jie

FA: Bob Keaty, Paul Collis, Ton Ton 4/2008

5.10b
Sport 25m
46 ** Jiu Jie Hua Xiang (Tangerine Blossom Fragrance)

FA: Ton Ton, Paul Collis, Bob Keaty, 2008

5.10a
Sport 25m
47 The Prowl

FA: Andrew Christensen,

6a
Sport 12m

Open trips

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