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Description

White Mountain is an impressive crag dominated by harder grade climbs. The massive wall is overhung and the climbing is both physical and sustained. The crag is South facing and is in the sun all day, however during summer some areas are in shade. The crag stays mostly dry during rain.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.11d The Tale of the Talus Sport 35m

FA: Seb Grieve, 2006

2

Scramble through caves to find the start.

Set by Dave Gliddon

FA: French Nike Team ACG, Mike, Axel, 2007

3
5.14d Spicy Dumpling Sport 45m

Branches off Spicy Noodle

Set by Chris Sharma

FA: Ethan Pringle, 2011

4
5.13b * The Axeman Sport 35m

FA: Neil Gresham, 2006

5
5.14c Spicy Noodle 辣米粉 Sport 42m

FA: Chris Sharma, 2009

6
5.14b * Chinaclimb 中国攀 Sport 35m

Set by Logan Barber, 2006

FA: A Bon, 2008

7
5.14b Wento Xino Sport 40m

FA: Oscar Gomez, 2009

8
5.14a Happy End Sport 45m

FA: Oscar Gomez, 2009

9
FR 7c+ * Unnamed 7c+ Sport 22m, 8

Sparse bolting in upper half

FA: Gerome Pouvreau & Chen Xie Wei, 2005

10
FR 7c+ * Another unnamed 7c+ Sport 22m, 9

Shares same crux as previous

FA: Gerome Pouvreau & Chen Xie Wei, 2005

11
** Unnamed 7a Sport 22m, 9

FA: Gerome Pouvreau & Chen Xie Wei, 2005

12
5.11d * Aiding and Abetting Sport 22m, 11

Super pumpy climbing up left trending line of "portholes". Start about 10m left of CW, where tufa flow feature reaches the ground.

FA: James Murphy, Paul Collis, 2004

13

Starts at cave belay at the top of Aiding and Abetting.

Set by Colton Lindeman

FA: Nike/Beal team ACG Michael, 2007

14
5.13b Korea No.1 韩国头号 Sport 28m, 14

FA: JH, Kim, 2008

15
5.11b * The Big Sun 大太阳 Sport 16m, 8

Splits all the way left at the 3rd bolt of China White

FA: Simone Liu, 2006

16

Breaks L out of China White then up.

FA: Dave Gliddon, 2008

17
5.12b ** China White 中国白 Sport 20m, 11

FA: Seb Greive, 2005

18
5.13b ** Gin and Tonic 金汤力 Sport 30m, 13

Same start as Tsing Tao Beer

FA: Chen Xie Wei, 2007

19
5.13a Shaken Not Stirred Sport 53m

Breaks off left from Gin & Tonic at the knee bar. Heads left all the way to the top of the wall. Re-belay at mid-anchor

Set by Andrew Hedesh, 2011

FA: Nikolai Ng, 2011

20
5.13a ** Tsing Tao Beer 青岛啤酒 Sport 28m, 13

FA: Shinsuke Kimura & Rie Kimura, 2006

21
5.12d ** Gang of Four 黑鬼 Sport 30m, 13

FA: Mark Garthwaite, 2005

22
5.12d ** White Devil 白鬼 Sport 30m, 12

FA: Neil Gresham, 2005

23
5.12b *** Yangshuo Hotel 阳朔旅馆 Sport 34m, 17

Long classic, with the hardest moves close to the ground. Apparently it is possible to get down on a 60m rope (Fire Birds belay can be used if you are struggling).

FA: Shinsuke Kimura, 2006

24
5.11b * Fire Bird 火鸟 Sport 15m, 6

FA: Rie & Shinsuke Kimura, 2006

25
5.13a ** From a Space Outta Time Sport 34m

Continuation of firebird. Climbs direct at the top for full grade.

FA: Doug "the cunt" Robertson, 2011

26
5.10b The Missing Link Pitch 1 Sport 15m, 7

FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004

27
5.12b ** The Missing Link Pitch 2 Sport 22m, 11

Continues past the first anchors and finishes up at the Wall of Attrition anchors

FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004

28
5.11c ** The Wall of Attrition Sport 22m, 10

Another long pumper. As the angle eases, the holds get smaller.

FA: Paul Collis, Cheng Xie Wei, Liu Tao, 2004

29
5.10d * Cave Man Pitch 1 山顶洞人 Sport 13m, 6

The 1st pitch is 5.10d up to 13 meters and the belay is located just below a small cave (n.b this belay seems to have been removed as at April 2012). The climb has a bouldery start, a high crux move, and is super polished and pumpy.

FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei, Liu Tao, 2004

30
5.11a ** Cave Man Pitch 2 山顶洞人 Sport 30m, 14

The 2nd pitch involves nice face climbing on reasonable holds. As at April 2012, the belay at the top of pitch 1 has been removed, and the route is now climbed as a long single pitch.

FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei, Liu Tao, 2004

31
5.12a ** West Streak Sport 30m

FA: Grant Farquhar, 2005

32
5.12b ** Lily Li Session Sport 30m

FA: David Brasco, 2009

33
5.12c *** Lucky Zone 幸运区域 Sport 28m, 9

Powerful crux on pockets at the roof.

FA: Soichiro Fukuda, 2007

34
5.12a Jin Se Zhong Nian Sport 28m, 11

Another 5.12 for the bank

FA: Zhang Yong, 2012

35
5.12b ** Devil Sticks 魔鬼棒 Sport 28m, 10

Starts immediatly left of SD, and shares its DBB.

FA: Liu Xi Nan, Chen Xie Wei, 2005

36
5.10c ** The Stone Dog 石狗 Sport 28m, 11

FA: Paul Collis, Dingo & Lao Gan Ma, 2004

37
5.11c * Wow Wow Mei Ao Sport 30m

FA: Torsten Gedicke, Susann Hantscho, Elke Schmitz, 2006

38
5.12b *** The Phoenix 凤凰 Sport 28m

Crimpy face climbing with a high crux.

FA: Colton Lindeman, 2006

39

Crux is above the cave and after the 5th bolt an easier option moves right then up.

FA: Colton Lindeman, 2006

40
5.11a *** Face Route Sport 27m, 14

As the name suggests this climb offers excellent balancey face climbing on small holds.

FA: Paul Collis & James Murphy, 2004

41
5.11b *** Merry Christmas 圣诞快乐 Sport 25m, 11

Excellent climbing on pockets.

FA: Zac & Katia Pisetzky, 2005

42

FA: Zac & Katia Pisetzky, 2005

43
5.11c * Captain Debauchery 西门庆 Sport 25m, 8

Tuff tufa climbing

FA: Solly Fernandez, 2006

44
5.10c ** The Comedians 喜剧演员 Sport 28m, 12

FA: Mike Robertson, 2006

45

Crack and groove climbing.

FA: Joe Picalli, 2006

46

Steep crimpy and technical.

FA: Colton Lindeman, 2005

47
5.11b Abinormal Sport 25m, 9

Tufa, jugs and crimps.

FA: Colton Lindeman & Abi Roberts, 2006

48
5.10b Liang Ba Sua Jie Sport 25m

FA: Bob Keaty, Paul Collis, Ton Ton, 2008

49

FA: Ton Ton, Paul Collis, Bob Keaty, 2008

50
5.10a The Prowl Sport 12m

FA: Andrew Christensen, 2007

Open trips

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