Route Grade Style Popularity
1
The Tale of the Talus
FA: Seb Grieve 10/2006
5.11d
Sport
2
Blue Magic / Torniquet 蓝色魔法
Scramble through caves to find the start.
FA: French Nike Team ACG
5.13d
Sport 16m
3
Spicy Dumpling
Branches off Spicy Noodle.
Equipper: Chris Sharma
5.14d
Sport
4
The Axeman
FA: Neil Gresham 10/2006
5.13b
Sport
5
Spicy Noodle 辣米粉
FA: Chris Sharma
5.14c
Sport
6
Chinaclimb 中国攀
FFA: A Bon 2008
5.14b
Sport
7
Wento Xino
FA: Oscar Gomez, 2009
5.14b
Sport
8
Happy End
FA: Oscar Gomez, 2009
5.14a
Sport
9
Unnamed 7c+
Sparse bolting in upper half
7c+
Unknown
10
Another unnamed 7c+
Shares same crux as previous
7c+
Unknown
11
Unnamed 7a
5.12-
Unknown
12
Aiding and Abetting
Super pumpy climbing up left trending line of "portholes". Start about 10m left of CW, where tufa flow feature reaches the ground.
FA: James Murphy, Paul Collis, 2004
5.11c
Sport
13
French Gangster 法国流氓
Starts at cave belay at the top of Aiding and Abetting.
5.14a
Sport
14
Korea No.1 韩国头号
FA: JH, Kim 2008?
5.13b
Sport
15
The Big Sun 大太阳
5.11b
Sport
16
Two in the Pink, One in the Stink 六指琴魔
Breaks L out of China White then up.
7b+
Unknown
17
China White 中国白
5.12b
Unknown
18
Gin and Tonic 金汤力
Same start as Tsing Tao Beer
5.13c
Sport
19
Tsing Tao Beer 青岛啤酒
5.13a
Unknown
20
Gang of Four 黑鬼
5.12d
Unknown
21
White Devil 白鬼
5.12d
Unknown
22
Yangshuo Hotel 阳朔旅馆
Long classic, with the hardest moves close to the ground. Apparently it is possible to get down on a 60m rope (Fire Birds belay can be used if you are struggling).
FA: Shinsuke Kimura, 2006
5.12b
Sport 34m
23
Fire Bird 火鸟
5.10d
Sport
24
The Missing Link Pitch 1
5.10a
Sport 15m
25
The Missing Link Pitch 2
5.12
Unknown
26
The Wall of Attrition
Another long pumper. As the angle eases, the holds get smaller.
FA: Paul Collis, Cheng Xie Wei, Liu Tao, 2004
5.11c
Sport
27
Cave Man Pitch 1 山顶洞人
The 1st pitch is 5.10d up to 13 meters and the belay is located just below a small cave (n.b this belay seems to have been removed as at April 2012). The climb has a bouldery start, a high crux move, and is super polished and pumpy.
FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei, Liu Tao, 2004
5.10d
Sport 13m
28
Cave Man Pitch 2 山顶洞人
The 2nd pitch involves nice face climbing on reasonable holds. As at April 2012, the belay at the top of pitch 1 has been removed, and the route is now climbed as a long single pitch.
FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei, Liu Tao, 2004
5.11a
Sport 20m
29
West Streak
FA: Grant Farquhar 11/2005
5.12a
Sport
30
Lily Li Session
5.12b
Sport
31
Lucky Zone 幸运区域
Powerful crux on pockets at the roof.
5.12c
Sport
32
Devil Sticks 魔鬼棒
Powerful moves through the roof, then a technical crux getting established above the roof on gastons and crimps. An easier but pumpy finish makes this an excellent route. Starts immediatly left of SD , and shares its DBB.
FA: Liu Xi Nan, Chen Xie Wei, 2005
5.12b
Sport
33
The Stone Dog 石狗
An interesting crux down low leads to easy nice moves, not too physical with a few good rests available.
5.10c
Sport 25m
34
Wow Wow Mei Ao
Nice climbing, nice line.
FA Torsten Gedicke, Susann Hantscho, Elke Schmitz 6/2006
6c+
Sport 30m
35
The Phoenix 凤凰
Crimpy face climbing with a high crux.
5.12c
Sport
36
The Tic Tac Smuggler 啲嗒糖走私贩
Crux is above the cave and after the 5th bolt an easier option moves right then up.
5.12d
Sport
37
Face Route
As the name suggests this climb offers excellent balancey face climbing on small holds.
5.11a
Sport 27m
38
Merry Christmas 圣诞快乐
Excellent climbing on pockets.
5.11b
Sport 25m
39
Happy Chanukah 光明节快乐
FA: Zac & Katia Pisetzky 12/2005
5.12b
Sport
40
Captain Debauchery 西门庆
Tuff tufa climbing.
5.11c
Sport
41
The Comedians 喜剧演员
5.10c
Sport 28m
42
Girl With a Machete 手持开山刀的女孩
Crack and groove climbing.
5.11d
Sport
43
Slippery Nipple 滑溜的乳头
Steep crimpy and technical.
5.13a
Sport
44
Abinormal
Tufa, jugs and crimps.
5.11b
Sport
45
Liang Ba Sua Jie
FA: Bob Keaty, Paul Collis, Ton Ton 4/2008
5.10b
Sport 25m
46
Jiu Jie Hua Xiang (Tangerine Blossom Fragrance)
FA: Ton Ton, Paul Collis, Bob Keaty, 2008
5.10a
Sport 25m
47
The Prowl
FA: Andrew Christensen,
6a
Sport 12m