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White Mountain is an impressive crag dominated by harder grade climbs. The massive wall is overhung and the climbing is both physical and sustained. The crag is South facing and is in the sun all day, however during summer some areas are in shade. The crag stays mostly dry during rain.


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Grade Route

FA: Seb Grieve, 2006

Scramble through caves to find the start.

Set by Dave Gliddon

FA: French Nike Team ACG, Mike & Axel, 2007

Starts immediatly left of SD, and shares its DBB.

FA: Liu Xi Nan & Chen Xie Wei, 2005

Branches off Spicy Noodle

Set by Chris Sharma

FA: Ethan Pringle, 2011

FA: Neil Gresham, 2006

FA: Chris Sharma, 2009

Set by Logan Barber, 2006

FA: A Bon, 2008

FA: Oscar Gomez, 2009

FA: Oscar Gomez, 2009

Sparse bolting in upper half

FA: Gerome Pouvreau & Chen Xie Wei, 2005

Shares same crux as previous

FA: Gerome Pouvreau & Chen Xie Wei, 2005

FA: Gerome Pouvreau & Chen Xie Wei, 2005

Super pumpy climbing up left trending line of "portholes". Start about 10m left of CW, where tufa flow feature reaches the ground.

FA: James Murphy & Paul Collis, 2004

Starts at cave belay at the top of Aiding and Abetting.

Set by Colton Lindeman

FA: Nike/Beal team ACG Michael, 2007

FA: JH & Kim, 2008

Splits all the way left at the 3rd bolt of China White

FA: Simone Liu, 2006

Breaks L out of China White then up.

FA: Dave Gliddon, 2008

FA: Seb Greive, 2005

Same start as Tsing Tao Beer

FA: Chen Xie Wei, 2007

Breaks off left from Gin & Tonic at the knee bar. Heads left all the way to the top of the wall. Re-belay at mid-anchor

Set by Andrew Hedesh, 2011

FA: Nikolai Ng, 2011

FA: Shinsuke Kimura & Rie Kimura, 2006

FA: Mark Garthwaite, 2005

FA: Neil Gresham, 2005

Long classic, with the hardest moves close to the ground. Apparently it is possible to get down on a 60m rope (Fire Birds belay can be used if you are struggling).

FA: Shinsuke Kimura, 2006

FA: Rie & Shinsuke Kimura, 2006

Continuation of firebird. Climbs direct at the top for full grade.

FA: Doug "the cunt" Robertson, 2011

FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004

Continues past the first anchors and finishes up at the Wall of Attrition anchors

FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004

Another long pumper. As the angle eases, the holds get smaller.

FA: Paul Collis, Cheng Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004

The 1st pitch is 5.10d up to 13 meters and the belay is located just below a small cave (n.b this belay seems to have been removed as at April 2012). The climb has a bouldery start, a high crux move, and is super polished and pumpy.

FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004

The 2nd pitch involves nice face climbing on reasonable holds. As at April 2012, the belay at the top of pitch 1 has been removed, and the route is now climbed as a long single pitch.

FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004

FA: Grant Farquhar, 2005

FA: David Brasco, 2009

Powerful crux on pockets at the roof.

FA: Soichiro Fukuda, 2007

Another 5.12 for the bank

FA: Zhang Yong, 2012

FA: Paul Collis, Dingo & Lao Gan Ma, 2004

FA: Torsten Gedicke, Susann Hantscho & Elke Schmitz, 2006

Crimpy face climbing with a high crux.

FA: Colton Lindeman, 2006

Crux is above the cave and after the 5th bolt an easier option moves right then up.

FA: Colton Lindeman, 2006

As the name suggests this climb offers excellent balancey face climbing on small holds.

FA: Paul Collis & James Murphy, 2004

Excellent climbing on pockets.

FA: Zac & Katia Pisetzky, 2005

FA: Zac & Katia Pisetzky, 2005

Tuff tufa climbing

FA: Solly Fernandez, 2006

FA: Mike Robertson, 2006

Crack and groove climbing.

FA: Joe Picalli, 2006

Steep crimpy and technical.

FA: Colton Lindeman, 2005

Tufa, jugs and crimps.

FA: Colton Lindeman & Abi Roberts, 2006

FA: Bob Keaty, Paul Collis & Ton Ton, 2008

FA: Ton Ton, Paul Collis & Bob Keaty, 2008

FA: Andrew Christensen, 2007

Set by Zhang Yong

FA: Yang YuLong

Very stiff at the grade

Set by Zhang Yong

FA: Yang YuLong


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