Route Grade Style Popularity
From Gansu with Love
Zai Shuo Yi Bian
How Lang is Your Shuang?
Shares an anchor with Hand-Jamming for Dummies.
FA: Adam, Ahui, 2008
Climb straight up through some massive ledges, into some nice cracks, then up onto the ledges on the left. If possible, clip the anchor from inside the cave rather than from the chossy rock pile to the right.
FA: Adam, Ahui, 2008
If you Bolt it, they will come
This route is perhaps the most fun in Shuanglang, interesting moves the whole way up. Just be aware of the massive block on the ledge that may be standing on to clip the anchor.
FA: Adam, Ahui,
Uncle Sam’s Revenge
This route shares an anchor with “
If you bolt it, they will come” though it is definitely less interesting.
Welcome to the Rock
Cruxy second clip. Finishes at the tufa, high and off to the right, with a pumpy second half.
Slabby route with a few nice holds, about 15m down the hill, to the right of stairmaster. Scary crux.
6 inches from 6 feet under
Climb the tufa straight off the ground to a cruxy 4th bolt. There may be an easier way to do the crux. Rest in the cave before continuing through another crux and an interesting finish. Be very careful clipping the third bolt, as Adam almost took a ground fall on the attempted first ascent after a blown foothold.
There are a couple of ways to climb this one. Be careful clipping the first bolt.
Down and around the corner from
The Green Hornet
Great line! Don’t be deterred by the chossy bottom. Avoid going left near the top. Hard to clip anchor.
This route shares the first two bolts with stairmaster. Mind the loose block below the chimney.
It’s possible to climb stairmaster all the way to the top before moving into the second half of Millenium Falcon. Done this way, the crux is bypassed but the route is still quality!
Weak beginning but an interesting crux.
Where’s the Reset Button?
Pumpy and sustained with great moves the whole way.
This route is pretty unique at Shuanglang; don’t be fooled by the low angle.
River of Poo
Crux is harder for short climbers. Nesting birds make full “use” of this route during some parts of the year.
It doesn’t feel like winter
Short route with a high first bolt.
FA: LiuYong, 2009
Some tricky moves down low lead to fun 5.5 moves on the second half. A little dirty at parts.
FA: Adam, 2010
1. Back-Alley Liposuction
Crux used to be much easier, until a crucial flake was pulled off. Very reachy.
4. Requiem for a Thornbush
The choss band runs across this route as well, but there is some sweet tufa climbing above.
El Male Rachamin (“O Merciful God”)
Climb up the big block to start and then go up the middle of the wall. Follow the crimpy slopers to the tufas, pull over the dirty tufas to an easy ride to the finish.
The start for this route is annoying/scary because of the band of choss that runs across it.
Nude Nuns with Big Guns
This is probably the best route of the four at the “girlfriend cliff.” Good climbing with the crux at the last move.
Mortification of the Flesh
Climb up the right side of the face, using the arête when necessary. Crimpy face climbing. One section of sharp crimps deters from the otherwise pleasant climbing.
Climb up the overhanging arête with powerful and precise movement to a fantastic and sustained face and arête climb.
Scaling the Walls of Mordor
Head up the groove at the bottom of a large crack and move left with difficulty to establish on the left side of the wall. Climbing sharp black rock for a few bolts is rewarded with great orange rock above.
Spread Your Legs and Trust the Rubber
Climb up the big block and move into the corner. Stemming, tufas, and hidden pockets, this route has it all. A delightful climb at an accessible grade.
Nuts and Ovaries
TRADITIONAL CLIMB with bolted anchor
Clip the first few bolts of Scaling the Walls of Mordor and then head bravely into wild, unbolted territory. Good gear and decent rests. The top part of the crack is about as good as limestone crack climbing gets. Falls have been taken, and yes, the gear does hold. Bring gear to 3 inches. If you have no cams, nuts, or ovaries, then you can also climb Scaling the Walls of Mordor and lower into the anchor of this climb to set up a top-rope. But that would be lame.
Pure Fucking Armageddon
Super sustained climbing using crimps, jugs, slopers, and hand-jams. Shares an anchor with
Insight and Catharsis
A hard start brings you to stimulating and pleasant dihedral and face climbing. The relaxed climbing comes to an end when you reach the upper crux, an Über -technical stemming dance up a featureless overhanging corner. Gym climbers beware.
A very hard start. Glorious and dynamic slab, tufa, and stalactite climbing above.
Angels Fall First
Start to the right of the obvious tufa line of L.D.G. Balance and crimp strength will see you through the crux and lead you to a choose-your-own-adventure pocket finish.
A beautiful tufa line which leads to a large ominous stalactite. This is one of the gems of Shuang Lang.
The Face of All Your Fears
Start by climbing the tufa and join the groove up the start of Mel’s Exciting Crack. Reach out right to clip the bolts and then break right for a relentless series of moves. Interesting and varied climbing leads to a beautiful crux move near the top. Awesome.
Full-on, right from the start, though the crux is higher-up. Powerful climbing leads to delicate crux.
Mel’s Exciting crack
Thrust up a ledge into a groove, and then up into the wide crack. Excellent climbing that is perhaps a little run-out. Guaranteed excitement.
Scramble up the short section of somewhat dirty rock to a wonderful and clean dihedral adventure.
Begin to the left of the short section of dirty rock and do battle with a deceptively easy looking wall of small crimps and shallow pockets. A somewhat good rest hold near the top allows you to prepare yourself for the powerful and technical boulder problem guarding the chains.