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Description

On the East Side of ErHai Lake, about one hour from Dali, lies the town of Shuanglang. In the hills overlooking the town, two cliffs have been developed:

There are 20 routes at "Shuanglang Soft" crag, grades 5.7 – 5.11d. The rock is limestone. Due to the way the rock has accumulated in very clear layers, the climbing style can best be described as crimpy with a handful of pockets and cracks. The angle varies from vertical to slightly positive to barely overhanging. The crag takes sun most of the day, and it can get hot! Thankfully, there is a nice hut in front of the crag that provides much-needed shade.It usually dries quickly after the shade. Most of the routes are on the main face, with 3 additional routes around the small bulge to the right.

There are 21 routes (20 sport routes and 1 trad route) at "Shuanglang Hard" Crag, grades 5.9 – 5.12d. At first glance, the rock appears to be limestone but when split open appears similar to quartzite. The routes vary from slightly to very overhanging, with neat features and some tufa. The crag faces the sun and it can be hot, though there are a few overhanging sections of the cliff where it is possible to find shade. Make sure you have at least 14 draws and a 60m rope in order to be able to climb all of the routes here.

Vist ClimbDali.com for more information and stop by ClimbDali's shop in the Old Town for the complete guidebook and more information.

Ethic inherited from Yunnan 云南

Climbing is mostly sport

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.7 From Gansu with Love Unknown 19m
2
5.9 Zai Shuo Yi Bian Unknown 21m
3

Shares an anchor with Hand-Jamming for Dummies.

FA: Adam, Ahui, 2008

4
5.7 Table Score Sport

Climb straight up through some massive ledges, into some nice cracks, then up onto the ledges on the left. If possible, clip the anchor from inside the cave rather than from the chossy rock pile to the right.

FA: Adam, Ahui, 2008

5

This route is perhaps the most fun in Shuanglang, interesting moves the whole way up. Just be aware of the massive block on the ledge that may be standing on to clip the anchor.

FA: Adam, Ahui

6

This route shares an anchor with “If you bolt it, they will come” though it is definitely less interesting.

FA: Adam

7

Cruxy second clip. Finishes at the tufa, high and off to the right, with a pumpy second half.

FA: Adam

8
5.10a Tainted Heart Sport

Slabby route with a few nice holds, about 15m down the hill, to the right of stairmaster. Scary crux.

FA: Drew

9

Climb the tufa straight off the ground to a cruxy 4th bolt. There may be an easier way to do the crux. Rest in the cave before continuing through another crux and an interesting finish. Be very careful clipping the third bolt, as Adam almost took a ground fall on the attempted first ascent after a blown foothold.

FA: Dane

10
5.8 Softcore Sport

There are a couple of ways to climb this one. Be careful clipping the first bolt.

FA: Dane

11
5.10a Medicinal Mushroom Sport

Down and around the corner from Tainted Heart.

FA: Reshi

12
5.10b The Green Hornet Sport

Great line! Don’t be deterred by the chossy bottom. Avoid going left near the top. Hard to clip anchor.

FA: Adam

13
5.11d Millennium Falcon Sport

This route shares the first two bolts with stairmaster. Mind the loose block below the chimney.

FA: Adam

14
5.10c Transmigration Sport

It’s possible to climb stairmaster all the way to the top before moving into the second half of Millenium Falcon. Done this way, the crux is bypassed but the route is still quality!

FA: Dane

15
5.11c Jesus Wept Sport

Weak beginning but an interesting crux.

FA: Dane

16

Pumpy and sustained with great moves the whole way.

17
5.9 Stairmaster Sport

This route is pretty unique at Shuanglang; don’t be fooled by the low angle.

FFA: Roman

FA: Adam

18
5.10d River of Poo Sport

Crux is harder for short climbers. Nesting birds make full “use” of this route during some parts of the year.

FA: Adam

19

Short route with a high first bolt.

FA: LiuYong, 2009

20
5.8 Cactus Pants Sport

Some tricky moves down low lead to fun 5.5 moves on the second half. A little dirty at parts.

FFA: Ofir

FA: Adam, 2010

21

Crux used to be much easier, until a crucial flake was pulled off. Very reachy.

FA: Nicole

22

The choss band runs across this route as well, but there is some sweet tufa climbing above.

FA: Dane

23

Climb up the big block to start and then go up the middle of the wall. Follow the crimpy slopers to the tufas, pull over the dirty tufas to an easy ride to the finish.

FA: Amir

24

The start for this route is annoying/scary because of the band of choss that runs across it.

FA: Amir

25

This is probably the best route of the four at the “girlfriend cliff.” Good climbing with the crux at the last move.

FA: Dane

26

Climb up the right side of the face, using the arête when necessary. Crimpy face climbing. One section of sharp crimps deters from the otherwise pleasant climbing.

FA: Amir

27
5.12b Poser Disposer Sport

Climb up the overhanging arête with powerful and precise movement to a fantastic and sustained face and arête climb.

FA: Amir

28

Head up the groove at the bottom of a large crack and move left with difficulty to establish on the left side of the wall. Climbing sharp black rock for a few bolts is rewarded with great orange rock above.

FA: Dane

29

Climb up the big block and move into the corner. Stemming, tufas, and hidden pockets, this route has it all. A delightful climb at an accessible grade.

FA: Dane

30
5.10c Nuts and Ovaries Trad

TRADITIONAL CLIMB with bolted anchor Clip the first few bolts of Scaling the Walls of Mordor and then head bravely into wild, unbolted territory. Good gear and decent rests. The top part of the crack is about as good as limestone crack climbing gets. Falls have been taken, and yes, the gear does hold. Bring gear to 3 inches. If you have no cams, nuts, or ovaries, then you can also climb Scaling the Walls of Mordor and lower into the anchor of this climb to set up a top-rope. But that would be lame.

FA: Dane

31

Super sustained climbing using crimps, jugs, slopers, and hand-jams. Shares an anchor with PROJECT2.

FA: Amir

32

A hard start brings you to stimulating and pleasant dihedral and face climbing. The relaxed climbing comes to an end when you reach the upper crux, an Über -technical stemming dance up a featureless overhanging corner. Gym climbers beware.

FA: Dane

33
5.12c PROJECT2 Sport Project

A very hard start. Glorious and dynamic slab, tufa, and stalactite climbing above.

34
5.11b Angels Fall First Sport

Start to the right of the obvious tufa line of L.D.G. Balance and crimp strength will see you through the crux and lead you to a choose-your-own-adventure pocket finish.

FA: Amir

35
5.10b L.D.G. Sport

A beautiful tufa line which leads to a large ominous stalactite. This is one of the gems of Shuang Lang.

FA: Amir

36

Start by climbing the tufa and join the groove up the start of Mel’s Exciting Crack. Reach out right to clip the bolts and then break right for a relentless series of moves. Interesting and varied climbing leads to a beautiful crux move near the top. Awesome.

FA: Amir

37
5.11c Leviathan Sport

Full-on, right from the start, though the crux is higher-up. Powerful climbing leads to delicate crux.

FA: Dane

38

Thrust up a ledge into a groove, and then up into the wide crack. Excellent climbing that is perhaps a little run-out. Guaranteed excitement.

FA: Dane

39
5.10a Bunny-hug Sport

Scramble up the short section of somewhat dirty rock to a wonderful and clean dihedral adventure.

FA: Nicole

40
5.12d Project3 Sport Project

Begin to the left of the short section of dirty rock and do battle with a deceptively easy looking wall of small crimps and shallow pockets. A somewhat good rest hold near the top allows you to prepare yourself for the powerful and technical boulder problem guarding the chains.

Open trips

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