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Main Wall Guide

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 3

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Dustin Johnston-Jewell

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Main Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Trad climbing

ethic

Respect the land owners.
They are kind enough to let you use their property for your enjoyment.
Respect other climbers.
Climbing is a community sport where the only opponent is the cruel crux that sends you airborne.
Respect the environment.
Above all, respect the environment. The plants, the earth and the rock itself were here long before you came into existence and will continue to exist long after you are gone. Sustain its survival by treating it properly.
  • Pick up trash, even if it is not your own. Take at least one piece out on every trip.

  • Do not kill flora or fauna, no matter how small or large.

  • Live and climb as though you are organic with your environment.

inherited from Rio Oro
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 No Name

The left most route has no name but many people call it La Comadreja Enchilada and at the time of writing the only route with seemingly bombproof protection, is also the hardest at Rio Oro. Start to the left of the thin crack with a good three finger pocket and a home made first bolt. Make finger strength and clean footwork dependant moves up and to the right to the commercial bolt for a feeling of security, and clip while pinching with the left. With a slight overhang, from here work your way through the crux, using the thin crack for a couple of moves before climbing back towards the left and finishing on a high step with great pockets before the anchors. As with most routes on the wall, dirt and overgrowth can be a problem, especially near the rounded top of the climb.

5.12a Mixed trad 8m, 6
2 La Virgen

Directly to the right of 'David Ulloa' and just to the right of the thin crack is the delicate and resolute La Virgen. Climb up the crack using the odd face hold clipping the homemade bolts along the way. Past the third and final bolt climb up and to the left using large pockets and slopers until you reach the same anchors as 'David Ulloa'. This route has yet to see a successful headpoint.

5.12a Mixed trad 8m, 5
3 El Pedo Loco

For this climb follow the kinked pen mark crack directly to the left of the easily identifiable Media Luna. At the time of writing this route does not have any top anchors and is missing a first bolt, and therefore the best thing to do is to set up a top rope on one of the trees at the top of the wall. Climb directly up the face using some well placed feet to ensure a successful attempt for the top.

5.11d Mixed trad 8m, 4
4 La Media Luna

Media Luna is the most apparent climb on the wall as it follows the obvious crack that is just to the left of the strangler fig tree roots. This is also the route that you will rappel in from when entering Rio Oro. Start with an easy step up onto a ledge before using a mix of layback and juggy crack moves to make your ascent. The homemade anchors at the top of this climb are a little sketchy, I would recommend creating a top rope from a tree, or if leading, topping out and then down climbing the roots. This climb can also be completed as a trad route.

5.9 Mixed trad 8m, 5
5 La Galleta de Soda

This climb is just to the right of the tree roots. At this climb the wall is slightly forward leaning and therefore this route provides a good warm-up for others on the wall. At the time of writing, all the bolts on this climb are homemade and one of the two anchors is missing, which is sad as it would be good to see one of Costa Rica’s first bolted climbs retrofitted with a new set of hardware.

5.9 Mixed trad 8m, 5

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5.9 La Galleta de Soda Mixed trad 8m, 5
La Media Luna Mixed trad 8m, 5
5.11d El Pedo Loco Mixed trad 8m, 4
5.12a La Virgen Mixed trad 8m, 5
No Name Mixed trad 8m, 6
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