Topo #3209

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
1 La Chimbombina

This scarcely bolted route is the most easterly climb on the set of freestanding boulders. Climb the face using a series of slopping crimps and slippery feet. Despite bearing only a single bolt if you are confident and courageous, you can always boulder the route at about V5.

5.11b Mixed 7m, 3 Unlink route
2 La Viagra

The middle north facing climb on the dislodged boulders is La Viagara. Using solely the face of the boulder, gloriously crimp this short route to the hanging chains above. You will find the climbing to be discreet and you will be at the anchors before you know it. For a much easier version of the same route, use the large crack between the boulders in a layback style to make the ascent. Sending the route in this manner brings the grad down to 5.9.

5.11c Mixed 7m, 4 Unlink route
3 La Caja de Leche

Directly beside a tree (across from Media Luna and the strangler fig tree routes) and on the shortest boulder’s north face, La Caja de Leche uses a set of homemade bolts and chain anchors. Squeeze milk out of the box by hugging the boulder and compressing inward with all four limbs, trading movements between extremities until you reach the anchors. Due to the low height of this climb, it can easily be bouldered if you are really antsy to get on it.

5.9 Mixed 6m, 3 Unlink route
4 Katanga

This route is on the west face of the most westerly dislodged boulder, directly in front of the tree, just around the corner from La Caja de Leche. There are no bolts on this climb, and the anchors are homemade with chains. You can use the anchors to set up a top rope if you trust the homemade chains, or you can boulder the relatively short route; be careful of the tree.

5.9 Top rope 6m Unlink route

Topo #3210

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
5 El Pecho del Palomo

On the back of La Viagara is El Pecho del Palomo, a short, dashing, classic with a vivacious crux. Start by standing on the small boulder and then follow the side pull up to a good horizontal crack. Pull on the crack to work your way onto the slopping ledge before reaching around the overhang and clipping the anchors. At the time of writing, this climb has all homemade bolts and anchors.

5.9 Mixed 7m, 6 Unlink route