East Wall All trad climbing

13 routes in cliff

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Description

This side of the ravine hosts a large, flat wall with great climbs such as La Raimunda, and La Paulina which follow the long cracks that stretch from the base of the wall to the top. Becuase the wall has few features and the grounds surrounding The Clinic does not host an abundance of vegetation, during the rainy season runoff can fill holds and cracks with mud. If the wall is not cleaned for seasons at a time, vegetation taking advantage of the year long growing season can often begin to grow. Therefore it is a good idea to bring some cleaning gear (brushes, machete, etc.), just in case.

Approach

Before venturing access from the east side of the ravine, it is important to note the following.

Although The Clinic has been out of use for nearly 40 years, it is still private property. There have been rumors of a displeased landowner who does not enjoy people walking to the ravine across his land. However most trips in and out are completed without complication or even seeing anyone on the deserted land. Also through the grapevine, The Clinic itself, which is rather creepy, was a corrupt business venture that saw investors lose their money. Interestingly, despite being on prime real estate to cater to Costa Rica’s wealthier communities, no mention of sale or redevelopment has surfaced. At the time of writing, some members in the climbing community are actively working towards resolving the eastside access issues.

From Mega Super cross the highway so that you are directly in front of the large arched entrance to Forum Business Complex. Walk in the same direction of highway traffic (west), towards the overpass. To the right of the overpass is a large red gate. Climb over or under the gate and then follow the road north. You will approach an old run down building known as The Clinic. Stay to the left of the building, following the road. On the right you will pass what was at one time to be the reception area, and flagpole of The Clinic. The road will take a bend to the right, from here turn 90º to the left and walk to the tree line at the top of the ravine. Be careful, the cliff is just beyond the tree line and can be hard to identify. Continue north along the tree line until there is a small break in the trees with the exception of a single large tree with a dark spot near the ground on its trunk close to the cliffs edge. This tree acts as a marker for the top of La Raimunda, which is the northern most route on The East Wall. Use the smaller tree about 3 meters from the edge to rappel to the anchors of La Raimunda, secure yourself, pull the rope to the anchors, and then rappel the remainder of the length to the bottom of the ravine.

Descent Notes

To get out of Forum from the East Wall, walk north (direction of river flow) along the base of The East Wall past La Raimunda. Just around the arête of the large detached section of rock (easily identifiable by the chimney to the left of La Raimunda) at the end of the wall you will find the large roots of a strangler fig tree that clings to the rock wall. Using the roots, scramble out of the ravine. For the easiest exit, traverse left while climbing to find an opening that leads you to The Clinic.

Ethic inherited from Forum

Respect the land owners. They are kind enough to let you use their property for your enjoyment.

Respect other climbers. Climbing is a community sport where the only opponent is the cruel crux that sends you airborne.

Respect the environment. Above all, respect the environment. The plants, the earth and the rock itself were here long before you came into existence and will continue to exist long after you are gone. Sustain its survival by treating it properly.

  • Pick up trash, even if it is not your own. Take at least one piece out on every trip.

  • Do not kill flora or fauna, no matter how small or large.

  • Live and climb as though you are organic with your environment.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.12a * La Raimunda Mixed 18m, 8

A Forum favorite with many climbers, La Raimunda is named after Ry Morrison, who besides being one of the first Costa Rican climbers to explore Forum, also bolted and supplied the bolts for the route. The climb is half balancing act, half pocketish-crimp fest worth the early rise or patient wait to beat out the intensely hot midday sun. Due to its position on the wall La Raimunda receives sun as early as 10:30am, which continues until about 2:30pm. As for the climbing, expect easy juggy moves until the ledge: this is where the climb really starts. After the ledge, an enjoyable no hands rest, a mix of laybacks, crimps, and a wild right handed catch to a pocket, you will work your way to the crux. If your fingers are feeling strong, then breeze through the crux to the larger holds just before the super shut anchors. If your fingers have gone on strike, don’t worry the falls are all clean.

2
5.11d La Paulina Mixed 18m, 8

Just to the right of La Raimunda, is La Paulina, named after Paul, who also donated the funds for the bolts and anchors. La Paulina starts off difficult as it follows a finger-sized crack before it reaches some fun movements and then eases up with large juggy cracks near the top. Stand on the boulder to clip the first bolt and then use the obvious thin crack to crank up over the lip. An extremely enjoyable climb with hard moves early and a rewarding final 5 meters. Finish at the super shuts.

3
5.11d Lateralus Mixed 18m, 8

Directly to the right of La Paulina, Lateralus begins slightly to the left of the large crescent shaped dislodged rock at the base of the wall. Use a couple of large angled cracks to rest during your push for the anchors.

4
5.12d Boca del Diablo Mixed 18m, 9

Easy to identify thanks to a homemade bolt about 5 meters off the ground and near the center of the wall, Boca del Diablo is a combination of hard crimp moves with an evident dynamic crux for a splash of extra spicy.

5
5.12d La Usurpadora Mixed 18m, 9

Use the jug above the lip of the roof to pull onto the face and then continue on shallow pockets.

6
5.13a La Mala Vibra Mixed 20m, 9

Make it over the initial lip and continue onto the face and don’t be too disappointed if you get turned down by the 5.13 dyno move that makes up the crux. Good luck.

7
5.12d Sensortrifulcador Mixed 18m, 9

A difficult and sustained climb in-between La Mala Vibra and Extractor. Make magic happen by getting through the roof, and then follow the thin pockets and flaring finger cracks to the top of the wall.

8
5.12a Extractor Mixed 18m, 10

Easy jug haulin’ until the face where it’s down to business. Getting over the lip or trying not to pump out, choose your crux.

9
5.12a Al-Qaeda Mixed 18m, 8

Start on the irregularly shaped arête to the left of Biscochelo de Fresa. Climb to the roof and pull through the easy jugs and onto the face, finishing at the bolts just below a small overhanging tree.

10
5.10b Biscochuelo de Fresa Mixed 15m, 8

Use the protruding crack of Dos Cortos and the face to the left to stem all the way up to the anchors. If your legs get tired there are some pockets, ledges, and larger cracks that will allow a rest or two, but for the real experience, go the whole way. Finish at the same anchors as Dos Cortos.

11
5.10a * Dos Cortos Mixed 12m, 7

Easily distinguishable by the parallel vertical running finger cracks, you will find this climb at the far right of the East Wall. The climb is a great warm-up for some of the others in the ravine. If you are familiar with jamming, and the cracks are clean, 5.9 may seem more appropriate. However the cracks are rarely clean enough to provide a feeling of security and if climbing the route without solid jamming ability, more than not, the grade of 5.10a seems appropriate. Whether you are jamming or not, climb directly up the vertical cracks to the horizontal crack and high step over the ledge for a rest. Use the cracks and good feet to get up to the slight overhang and the real challenge. As feet and hands thin out and you are forced to decide for more crack or big stretchy moves, your head will become the crux. Make some commitment and pull through the overhang to the anchors. This route is also a great route to be done on trad.

12
5.9 La Pupy Mixed 12m, 6

To the left of Dos Cortos you will find Pupis. A great climb for beginners who are looking for a mental challenge as the crux move requires commitment to pull off. This climb starts off by following the large crack up to a high first bolt. Continue towards the crux, where you must get a good stance to go wide with your hands and pull up onto the face. Once you have managed to go around the overhand and are on the face, use the two cracks to shimmy up to the anchors that lay slightly to the upper left of the final bolt. This route can also be done on trad.

13
5.10a Eccéntrica Mixed 12m, 7

Just around the corner to the right from Biscochuelo de Fresa, Dos Cortos, and Pupis, is another wonderful crack climb: Hexentrica. Follow the large cracks straight up to the anchors. This route can also be done on trad. Because this area is exposed to a lot of sunlight, overgrowth occurs fairly quickly.