Topo #3220

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
2 La Paulina

Just to the right of La Raimunda, is La Paulina, named after Paul, who also donated the funds for the bolts and anchors. La Paulina starts off difficult as it follows a finger-sized crack before it reaches some fun movements and then eases up with large juggy cracks near the top. Stand on the boulder to clip the first bolt and then use the obvious thin crack to crank up over the lip. An extremely enjoyable climb with hard moves early and a rewarding final 5 meters. Finish at the super shuts.

5.11d Mixed 18m, 8 Unlink route
3 Lateralus

Directly to the right of La Paulina, Lateralus begins slightly to the left of the large crescent shaped dislodged rock at the base of the wall. Use a couple of large angled cracks to rest during your push for the anchors.

5.11d Mixed 18m, 8 Unlink route
4 Boca del Diablo

Easy to identify thanks to a homemade bolt about 5 meters off the ground and near the center of the wall, Boca del Diablo is a combination of hard crimp moves with an evident dynamic crux for a splash of extra spicy.

5.12d Mixed 18m, 9 Unlink route

Topo #3221

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5 La Usurpadora

Use the jug above the lip of the roof to pull onto the face and then continue on shallow pockets.

5.12d Mixed 18m, 9 Unlink route
6 La Mala Vibra

Make it over the initial lip and continue onto the face and don’t be too disappointed if you get turned down by the 5.13 dyno move that makes up the crux. Good luck.

5.13a Mixed 20m, 9 Unlink route
7 Sensortrifulcador

A difficult and sustained climb in-between La Mala Vibra and Extractor. Make magic happen by getting through the roof, and then follow the thin pockets and flaring finger cracks to the top of the wall.

5.12d Mixed 18m, 9 Unlink route
8 Extractor

Easy jug haulin’ until the face where it’s down to business. Getting over the lip or trying not to pump out, choose your crux.

5.12a Mixed 18m, 10 Unlink route
9 Al-Qaeda

Start on the irregularly shaped arête to the left of Biscochelo de Fresa. Climb to the roof and pull through the easy jugs and onto the face, finishing at the bolts just below a small overhanging tree.

5.12a Mixed 18m, 8 Unlink route
10 Biscochuelo de Fresa

Use the protruding crack of Dos Cortos and the face to the left to stem all the way up to the anchors. If your legs get tired there are some pockets, ledges, and larger cracks that will allow a rest or two, but for the real experience, go the whole way. Finish at the same anchors as Dos Cortos.

5.10b Mixed 15m, 8 Unlink route

Topo #3222

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Route Grade Popularity Style
11 * Dos Cortos

Easily distinguishable by the parallel vertical running finger cracks, you will find this climb at the far right of the East Wall. The climb is a great warm-up for some of the others in the ravine. If you are familiar with jamming, and the cracks are clean, 5.9 may seem more appropriate. However the cracks are rarely clean enough to provide a feeling of security and if climbing the route without solid jamming ability, more than not, the grade of 5.10a seems appropriate. Whether you are jamming or not, climb directly up the vertical cracks to the horizontal crack and high step over the ledge for a rest. Use the cracks and good feet to get up to the slight overhang and the real challenge. As feet and hands thin out and you are forced to decide for more crack or big stretchy moves, your head will become the crux. Make some commitment and pull through the overhang to the anchors. This route is also a great route to be done on trad.

5.10a Mixed 12m, 7 Unlink route
12 La Pupy

To the left of Dos Cortos you will find Pupis. A great climb for beginners who are looking for a mental challenge as the crux move requires commitment to pull off. This climb starts off by following the large crack up to a high first bolt. Continue towards the crux, where you must get a good stance to go wide with your hands and pull up onto the face. Once you have managed to go around the overhand and are on the face, use the two cracks to shimmy up to the anchors that lay slightly to the upper left of the final bolt. This route can also be done on trad.

5.9 Mixed 12m, 6 Unlink route
13 Eccéntrica

Just around the corner to the right from Biscochuelo de Fresa, Dos Cortos, and Pupis, is another wonderful crack climb: Hexentrica. Follow the large cracks straight up to the anchors. This route can also be done on trad. Because this area is exposed to a lot of sunlight, overgrowth occurs fairly quickly.

5.10a Mixed 12m, 7 Unlink route