West Wall Mostly sport climbing

18 routes in cliff

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Description

The west side of the ravine hosts an excellent variety of climbs. Everything from 5.5 to 5.13b can be found here. Climbs are listed right to left when facing the wall starting with the northern most climb.

Approach

To enter Forum from the west side, starting at Mega Super walk west for 100m. This will take you under the overpass and over a bridge that is overtop the Rio Uruca. After the river there is a path below the highway running parallel to the river. Walk north along the path in the same direction as the river’s flow. If you are on the south side of the highway, there is no need to cross the highway and chance being struck by a car. Instead, hop the guardrail and walk down to the path; there is a tunnel that runs under the highway.

From the highway walk north approximately 100m until an obviously large tree on the right hand side indicates a smaller trail that moves toward the ravines edge. By chance if you miss the large tree the path will continue towards a group of houses. If you see the houses you have gone too far.

Follow the smaller trail and on the right side you will find a small opening in the trees. A second small opening hosts a tree that overhangs the ravine and is your rappel point. To the bottom of the ravine is just under 30m, and therefore you will need to rappel down to the anchors of La Buseta, or set up a rappel station on the overhanging tree. About 1.5m under the edge, there is a ledge from where you can set up a station; make sure you are secure and safe before going down to the ledge. You may notice that the overhanging tree has a reddish bark that flakes. Interestingly, in Belize, the locals have nicknamed these trees ‘tourist trees’ because their skin peels like that of a tourist who has seen too much sun.

Descent Notes

In order to exit the ravine from the west there are two options. The first is to climb out using La Buseta. Climb to the anchors, and then continue up the parallel cracks toward the next, extra, bolt. From the extra bolt traverse left to the small ledge. From here you can either top out and set up a top belay or use the ledge to set up a top belay. However, after a long day of climbing, perhaps your arms are tired and topping out the 5.11a extension of La Buseta does not appear so appealing.

The second option for exiting the ravine from the West Wall is to climb out using a strangler fig tree near the rivers merger. Hike north (downriver) until you reach a large tree with a waist high column root near the merger of the rivers. Getting to the tree may require crossing the river multiple times if debris blocks direct access on the west bank. From the large tree with the protruding waist high column root, scramble up the hill to a small boulder pile. Continue hiking towards the wall, moving right about 10m as you ascent. Keep your eyes open for a relatively flat, open area of the wall that has a perfectly formed root. Perhaps some of the most fun climbing you can do, jug-haul up the roots to the path, and head back south towards the highway.

Ethic inherited from Forum

Respect the land owners. They are kind enough to let you use their property for your enjoyment.

Respect other climbers. Climbing is a community sport where the only opponent is the cruel crux that sends you airborne.

Respect the environment. Above all, respect the environment. The plants, the earth and the rock itself were here long before you came into existence and will continue to exist long after you are gone. Sustain its survival by treating it properly.

  • Pick up trash, even if it is not your own. Take at least one piece out on every trip.

  • Do not kill flora or fauna, no matter how small or large.

  • Live and climb as though you are organic with your environment.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.5 KinderGrieta Trad 19m

Whack your way through the bush to the left of La Buseta and hidden in a chute you will find the sure to be overgrown and dirty KinderGrieta. An easy climb that can also act as an exit route from the ravine. Climb the large blocks to the top.

2
5.9 La Pupynela Mixed 16m, 2

Missing bolts. Can be done on trad.

3
5.10b * La Buseta Mixed 16m, 6

With an overhanging tree at the top of the route, La Buseta is often used as the rappel spot for a West wall entry. The climb is easily distinguishable by its vertical white watermark and it’s parallel running hand-sized cracks at the top of the route. It is also the most northern (farthest to the right, when facing the wall) route on the west wall. The large cracks on the route allow for trad climbing, although the route is bolted. Expect a tricky start up multiple finger cracks to a rest ledge before moving into the larger hand cracks and layback moves. Finish at the anchors.

4
5.10d * La Buseta Extension Mixed 20m, 8

With an overhanging tree at the top of the route, La Buseta is often used as the rappel spot for a West wall entry. The climb is easily distinguishable by its vertical white watermark and it’s parallel running hand-sized cracks at the top of the route. It is also the most northern (farthest to the right, when facing the wall) route on the west wall. The large cracks on the route allow for trad climbing, although the route is bolted. Expect a tricky start up multiple finger cracks to a rest ledge before moving into the larger hand cracks and layback moves. Continue climbing past the anchors to the extra bolt and then the rappelling tree if you wish to climb out of the ravine.

5
5.10d El Vuelo del Palomo Sport 19m, 9

This fun climb starts to the left of La Buseta. Ascend your way up to the overhanging cobra head-like rock formation before you make the high and wide crux grab. Missing the move on lead provides riders with big, clean falls. It is a good route to learn how to handle a roof section. If you are short, this route becomes much much harder, as the crux is now a dyno or a thin crack that acts as an intermediate to get you to the jug.

6
5.11a La Eleccion Sport 16m, 6

This route hosts a great mix of crimps, pockets, jugs and stemming. Located two routes to the left of La Buseta, start on some technical and crimpy moves that traverse slightly to the right before making headway to a horizontal crack with a rest. The mildly overhanging section of the climb provides the physical crux of the route, with a key two-finger pocket that allows for quick movement onto a more vertical face with a ledge. Most likely to be dirty, but a great resting location nonetheless, the ledge also provides a little mental confidence before you continue upward through the final section of the route where handholds become scarce and stemming and friction based moves are more likely to get you to the super shuts.

7
5.12b * La Via Lactea Sport 16m, 6

This extremely technical climb is an instant classic with it’s variety of moves, holds and climbing styles. Two climbs to the right of Chiquisa (with it’s easily identifiable overhang) La Via Lactea begins with tactful moves up the small arête to the left of the first bolt before a layback allows you to reach the two finger pocket (mono if your fingers are really large) and hoist up to the horizontal crack. Sneak a rest before using the sharp crimp to assist your attempt to the small jug. From here things really start to get fun with a gaston, a high step, a compression, and a stretch for a taxing pocket that is deceivingly comfortable. If you find yourself on a right facing block handhold, congratulations your work, for the most part, is complete. Finish the remainder of the route with everyone’s favorite type of climbing; big moves to big jugs. Just hope that the lactic acid in your arms hasn’t reached a tipping point that will see your send attempt take a downfall.

8
Aquella Via Sport Project 16m, 7

Start with the two mono pockets on an otherwise blank face and go directly up. Includes a uber hard dyno from two crimps, a bad left foot, to a sloping crimp. Complete that and then finish Aquella directly above. Good luck.

9
5.12a * Aquella Sport 16m, 7

Start on the same line as Chiquisa,using a side pull and some delicate moves to climb up to the second bolt and then head right. Continue towards the roof keeping right of the overhang to a open book. Use a mixture of stemming and higgen hand and foot holds to work your way up the open book before some lovable jugs, and a final push for the anchors.

10
5.12a * Chiquizá Sport 16m, 7

This route has a little bit of everything. Technical and delicate, yet fun climbing on crimps with seemingly perfectly placed jugs for resting. Climb to the large overhanging roof where large jugs reside. In order to avoid some serious rope drag on the sharp edge of the overhang, don’t forget your extended draw. After resting under the roof, make the bold brawny moves through the monster jugs to haul yourself on top of the overhang. Now that you are done with the fun, get down to business as hand and foot holds almost completely disappear. Hug the refrigerator sized block with all four limbs, pray for great friction, think like a boulderer, and scramble to the anchors shared with Aquella to the left.

11
5.9 Mr. Ed Sport 16m, 6

The large features and low overhanging cover of Mr. Ed often means that the climb can be dirty. However the route still acts as a good warm up, both physically and mentally. Start climbing difficult, almost awkward moves traversing up and to the left. Rest on a large ledge before looking up and realizing that your next bolt is further away than anticipated. Grow a pair and move with confidence through the easy moves to the anchors.

12
5.11b Avispon Negro Sport 16m, 6

The first route after you walk past Mr. Ed down a small hill towards the waterfall. Start on a large obvious jug at about arms reach above head level. Incomplete information on this route.

13
5.11b La Berraca Sport 16m, 5
14
5.12a Tractomula Sport 18m, 8

Start on a slightly overhanging dihedral with a layback crack across from a tree. Work the layback to a good rest, and then continue to follow the crack until a ledge where you can really rest it out, no-hands style. From the ledge use the pockets and some high feet to haul over the overhang and onto the slab before the anchors. Handholds really start to disappear as you climb over the final bolt and make for the super shuts. A word of warning, the slab at the top of the route is often very dirty after the rainy season.

15
5.10a El Bejuco Sport 16m, 5

Aptly named El Bejuco is easily identifiable due to the long strangler fig root that stretches from the top of the wall, all the way to the bottom of the ravine.

16
5.12c Toxicity Sport 18m, 7
17
5.9 Astro-Boy Sport 16m, 6
18
5.12d Astro-Boy Extension Sport 18m, 7