Topo #2613

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
1 Llalan-Llalan Caminando

Facing the wall with your back to the river and the camping hut, this is the very first route on the wall from right to left. A fun and juggy route with an extended left traverse about half way up where the climb goes directly overtop the anchors for 'Como Tu Sabe'. Due to the traverse feature of this climb, it is recommended to take extendable draws in order to reduce rope drag. End on the same anchors as 'Para Sayang'.

5.10a Sport 25m, 12 Unlink route
2 Como Tu Sabe

This is the second route from the right. Forward leaning with great jugs, crimps and slopers, this climb provides a good starting point for beginners. The route ends at the clearly visible anchors (shared with '5 Minutes More') which also hosts a no hands, no feet sitting rest for the beginners who need a break after their introductory ascent.

5.7 Sport 8m, 6 Unlink route
3 * 5 Minutes More

Just to the right of 'Para Sayang', 5 Minutos Mas can be tricky before the first bolt as great handholds are seemingly scarce. Be patient and make it past the lower first bolt to find the jugs you have been looking for, moving slightly towards the right after the third bolt and finishing at the anchors that are shared with 'Como Tu Sabe'. With a forward leaning angle to the wall, rests are made easy and completing the route is only 5 more minutes away. A word of warning, many of the juggier holds on this route seem to be loose, so please be aware of shifting rock.

5.8 Sport 8m, 6 Unlink route
4 Para Sayang

This route starts to the the right of the boulder at the base of the wall, and has its first anchor about 3 meters off the ground. A seemingly conservative climb, Para Sayang’s true colours come out when handholds run out and a sequential crux stares you in the face. Once clipped to the anchors don’t forget to turn around and take in one of the best views of the river and the surrounding farm covered valley.

5.10c Sport 25m, 12 Unlink route
5 Vaca Caca

Vaca Caca is a traverse route that starts to the left of ‘Para Sayang’ and travels left utilizing all the jugs until the hanging chain anchors shared with ‘Viagra’. As a lead route this climb can be confusing as it overlays other routes on the wall. Remember to keep the left after the fourth bolt and make way for the locked carabiner on the chains. This is a good route for learning to lead, warming up, or beginners to get a taste of outdoor rock climbing.

5.6 Sport 10m, 6 Unlink route
6 Lo Tocar a Mi

A straight forward 5.8 climb that is good for both beginners and intermediate warm-up alike. This climb is often set up as a top-rope for beginner climbers as the forward leaning angle of the wall provides a great learning experience. As a lead climb this route should not be taken lightly despite the low grade. This is because the first three bolts all have ground fall potential.

5.8 Sport 9m, 8 Unlink route
7 Verde

To the left of ‘Lo Tocar a Mi’ you will find ‘Verde’ and ‘No Hablar Español’. These two routes are essentially the same, except that ‘Verde’ moves to the right for one bolt while the route ‘No Hablar Espanol’ moves to the left for one bolt. The split occurs after the second bolt from the ground, and then the two routes reunite on the fourth bolt before ascending to the chain anchor which lies to the left of the large crack. The traverse route ‘Vaca Caca’ also ends on the same chain anchor. Much like ‘La Impotencia’ and ‘Pura Vida Mae’, the duel route of ‘Verde’ and ‘No Hablar Espanol’ are good routes for top-rope and for beginners.

5.7 Sport 9m, 6 Unlink route

Topo #3190

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
11 La Impotencia

As mentioned in the ‘Pura Vida Mae’ description, La Impotencia shares the same start and finish as ‘Pura Vida Mae’. For La Impotencia, the harder of the two climbs, ensure that you stay left after the third bolt, use the following tow bolts above, and then move back right for the chain anchor with the green tarp.

5.9 Sport 9m, 7 Unlink route
10 Pura Vida Mae

Finishing at the lower hanging chain anchors with the green protective tarp, Pura Vida Mae shares its start and finish with ‘La Impotencia’. The only difference in the two climbs, other than the grade point difference and the number of quickdraws needed, is the direction to follow after the third bolt. For the easier of the two routes after the third bolt climb towards the right to the next bolt before moving back left and finishing on the anchors. For ‘La Impotencia’, from the third bolt head left and utilize the two bolts before moving up and right to the anchors. Pura Vida Mae is a good climb to set up a top-rope for beginners as both on and off the line are littered with good hand holds and good feet. It also has a forward leaning wall, allowing for long rests. I would not recommend this climb for someone learning to lead, as protection is not abundant.

5.8 Sport 9m, 6 Unlink route
9 No Hablar Español

No Hablar Espanol and ‘Verde’ begin at the same point at the base of the wall and end at the same chain anchor. Climb the easy jugs and slopers to the second bolt. Here the route splits right or left. For No Hablar Espanol, climb left for one bolt and then move back right to a bolt before finishing on the anchors. This route is commonly used as a top-rope route and is a good place for beginners to get some real rock experience.

5.7 Sport 9m, 6 Unlink route
8 El Pichon

If you are looking for a mental challenge more than a physical one, El Pichon may be the climb for you. The route starts on the same line as ‘Verde’ however instead of heading for the chains after the fourth bolt climb towards the large crack on the right. Run out the crack for about five meters and you will find yourself at a small dark roof with the next bolt in reachable distance. Climb over the roof and briefly to the right before traversing back left to the anchors.

5.9 Sport 11m, 10 Unlink route
7 Verde

To the left of ‘Lo Tocar a Mi’ you will find ‘Verde’ and ‘No Hablar Español’. These two routes are essentially the same, except that ‘Verde’ moves to the right for one bolt while the route ‘No Hablar Espanol’ moves to the left for one bolt. The split occurs after the second bolt from the ground, and then the two routes reunite on the fourth bolt before ascending to the chain anchor which lies to the left of the large crack. The traverse route ‘Vaca Caca’ also ends on the same chain anchor. Much like ‘La Impotencia’ and ‘Pura Vida Mae’, the duel route of ‘Verde’ and ‘No Hablar Espanol’ are good routes for top-rope and for beginners.

5.7 Sport 9m, 6 Unlink route

Topo #3192

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13 Caca Vaca

To the right of the middle of the wall is Caca Vaca. You will find that the bolts on this line are spaced a little further apart than on other climbs the same height, and as a result, less draws are needed. The climbing is crimpy with well placed resting jugs until you reach the small roof. Here you will find a heady move that may require the commitment your partner has been looking for. Pull through the roof and you are only two bolts and some friendly crimps away from the chain anchor. Well, almost. The final anchors can be a bit of a challenge to clip.

5.9 Sport 11m, 8 Unlink route
14 La Luz

Almost directly in the middle of the wall La Luz hosts a good mixture of jugs, crimps and sloped feet. La Luz starts off pumpy as slopers are the hold of choice, but then eases into some monstrous jugs around the middle of the climb. The wise would exploit this rest as best as possible. Don’t become cocky by the perception of easier climbing halfway and shoot for the top, most blow off in the final stretch for the anchors as handholds become smaller and jugs are replaced by pinches. If you get the leg shakes as you hurriedly apply the anchors, you are not the first, and doubtfully the last.

5.11b Sport 11m, 11 Unlink route
15 Breathe

Very similar to ‘La Luz’, Breathe is one climb to the left and one letter grade harder. The two climbs have a number of similarities. For starters, both end on the same anchors, have sloping, pumpy starts and have decent resting spots at about half way. Also, much like ‘La Luz’, the crux of Breathe only makes itself fully apparent when you are already in the middle of it. The crux is a stretched move, so this climb may be significantly harder for shorter individuals. Once the final piece of protection has been utilized make a short and easy traverse to the right for the anchors.

5.11c Sport 11m, 11 Unlink route

Topo #3193

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16 Khadijah

To the left of the middle of the wall you will find Khadijah which hosts a technical start, pumping the ill-prepared early. Climb through the small ledges to the crux and make the undercling dependent move in the middle of the steepest section, grabbing the good ledges to follow. Another option is to pinch up the left side and by applying compression strength, although this path would most likely not be 5.12a. With the crux complete, use the randomly placed good holds to rest and reserve your energy in order to make it to the anchors. The climb will drift left and, at one point, almost overlap ‘No Soy Chino’, however do not become confused. Climb around the anchors of ‘No Soy Chino’ into the lighter coloured rock to find the jugs you have been dreaming of and the end of the route.

5.12a Sport 18m, 11 Unlink route
18 Contigo Termina en Khadijah

A tall, seldom climbed route to the right of ‘Cachi Cross’, Contigo Termina en Khadijah has the same start as ‘No Soy Chino’, but continues straight up the wall while ‘No Soy Chino’ veers to the right after the fourth bolt. When ‘No Soy Chino’ breaks off to the right, climb through the overhang and continue on fair holds until the anchors.

5.11d Sport 18m, 11 Unlink route
17 No Soy Chino

This climb shares its start with ‘Contigo Termina en Khadijah’. Ensure that you stay towards the right when the bolts carry into two separate lines. This occurs at the fourth bolt where you should make your way towards a small tree growing out of the rock and then continue upward towards the anchors just before the large light coloured patch wall. Expect pumperific, sloping, solid 5.11 climbing until a good rest that allows you to prepare both mentally and physically for the crux to the hallelujah jug at the top.

5.11c Sport 11m, 11 Unlink route
20 Cachi Cross

Place a V6/7 boulder problem on a sloper-centric wall, reduce the foot placement options, add a touch of “¿where do I go next?” and bam! you have Cachi Cross. The early jugs on this route can be deceiving, causing some to rush, however this will most likely lead to being pumped for the big sloper move to the right of the forth bolt. Using a nylon jug in order to clip the fourth bolt is not uncommon, especially for the vertically challenged. Pull your way past the crux to consistently good holds until the anchors. The true test is keeping the lactic acid burn in your forearms under control in order to allow enough time to make it to the top of one of the tallest climbs on the wall. This often cruel climb meets its grade well and can be found directly to the right of ‘Chino Clandestino’.

5.12b Sport 24m, 13 Unlink route

Topo #3194

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21 Chino Clandestino

To the left of ‘Cachi Cross’ and before the talus on the left, Chino Clandestino is situated directly in front of the belayers bench. This tall test piece hosts a sustained crux that has well concealed rests and brutally apparent slopers. The beginning of the crux has multiple path options: either manage the classic Cachi slopers to the right, or crimp and pinch up the middle. Once you have managed the crux, traverse slightly to the left and you will be well rewarded with a much needed resting hold, and if you are creative, a no-hands rest. From here to the top the climb is easy as pie, so long as you utilize the provided underclings. Miss the underclings and you may be finding yourself at a second crux section

5.12b Sport 18m, 12 Unlink route
22 Acido y Medio

Directly to the left of ‘Chino Clandestino’ and about half a meter longer, Acido y Medio provides a sustained and sometimes steep climb with good holds. Somewhat ladderish to begin, this climb rarely receives as much attention as other more technical routes. The difficulty on this route is consistent in a way that not any single move presents itself as substantially more challenging than the next, but rather that the entire route is a race before your forearms quit. A message of precaution, apparently bolts on this climb were not drilled into the rock as deep as they should have been. Therefore, if safety is a concern and you still want to give Acido y Medio a run, it is recommended that you ascent ‘Chino Clandestino’ and then traverse over to the Acido y Medio anchors in order to set up a top rope.

5.11d Sport 18m, 12 Unlink route
23 Buen Ray

Much like ‘Adios Hermanos’, Buen Ray hosts its crux move close to the ground, and therefore clipping the first bolt prior to take-off is highly recommended in the name of safety. Post crux, expect ladderish yet fun climbing on the crimps, slopers, and pinches that are characteristic of climbing at Cachi. The route eases at the top with larger holds and widely available resting positions.

5.12a Sport 20m, 10 Unlink route

Topo #3195

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26 Name Unknown

To the right of 'El Ojo del Tigre' and just as high. **70m rope required**

Sport Project 35m, 22 Unlink route
27 El Ojo del Tigre

Risn’ up, straight to the top, you’ll have the guts, you’ve got the glory, went the distance, just a man and his will to survive. An endurance of hard, pumpy, climbing. Only those who jog up the steps of the Capital building, train extra hard and wear sweat pants will survive. With three very separate crux areas, El Ojo del Tigre is an endurance spectacular. You will find all three of the cruxes come at each of the three major roofs on the route. The first is no more than three meters from the ground creating an early pump. The climb continues on good holds and even becomes forward leaning at the beginning of the first light coloured patch. Before the roof at the first light coloured patch of wall, clip a mentally committing bolt before approaching the second crux. Manage through the main crux, a sloper overhang move to a hard bump before you can muscle your way over the roof. Do not fret there are jugs to come, but only momentarily before you reach the larger light coloured patch of the wall and the final crux. Completely overhanging off the lip, falling off here due to pump is not uncommon and allows for sizable airtime. Once you have commanded the final crux, climb first to the right for a bolt and then up to the left for two more bolts and then the anchors at the vegetation line. It is recommended to utilize extended draws for bolts directly under each roof section as rope drag can become an issue. Also, I would recommend tying a knot in the end of your rope as to avoid losing the belay. A 70m rope just squeaks in enough length to go the distance. **70m rope required**

5.13b Sport 35m, 22 Unlink route

Topo #3196

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
31 Atheist
5.11 Sport 10m, 6 Unlink route
32 Deception
5.12 Sport 10m, 6 Unlink route
33 Susan
5.10 Sport 8m, 5 Unlink route
34 +hot
5.9 Sport 10m, 6 Unlink route
35 Flacatash
5.11 Sport 10m, 6 Unlink route