Paklenica (Zadar) Crag guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Melwin Quacke januch:) Leo Seib Samu Milan Vucinic Clayton G. N. Campbell Gome stephen hancock Gyula Farkas Stephen White

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Paklenica (Zadar) 113 in Crag
- 1.1. Vranjska Draga 0 in Crag
- 1.2. A-Klanci 70 in Crag
  - 1.2.1. A/3 Auhe 4 in Sector
  - 1.2.2. A/4 - Devnjaca 2 in Crag
  - 1.2.3. A/5 - Jupi 3 in Crag
  - 1.2.4. A/6 - Popaj 8 in Sector
  - 1.2.5. A/9 - Figa 3 in Crag
  - 1.2.6. A/10 Veleshit 4 in Cliff
  - 1.2.7. A/12 - Zighi & Urli 3 in Crag
  - 1.2.8. A/15 - Zava 5 in Area
  - 1.2.9. A/16 Karenin 6 in Area
  - 1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska 18 in Sector
  - 1.2.11. A/7 Olimp 4 in Crag
  - 1.2.12. A/1 Parkiraliste 7 in Crag
- 1.3. B-Veliki Vitrenik 1 in Area
- 1.4. C- Crljenica 0 in Cliff
- 1.5. D - Kukovi ispod Vlake 9 in Cliff
  - 1.5.1. South face 0 in Sector
    - 1.5.1.1. Tron 0 in Sector
  - 1.5.2. North face 9 in Sector
- 1.6. Debeli Kuk 2 in Area
- 1.7. F-Maniti kuk 0 in Crag
- 1.8. Anica Kuk 24 in Crag
- 1.9. H - Veliki Cuk 2 in Cliff
- 1.10. I - Mali Cuk 0 in Cliff
- 1.11. Kuk od Skradelin 4 in Area
- 1.12. Ovcij kuk 1 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Paklenica (Zadar) 113 routes in Crag

8 2 5

2 A-Klanci, 5 D - Kukovi ispod Vlake, 8 Anica Kuk

seasonality

Summary:: Sport,? and other styles
Long/Lat: 15.470452, 44.303408
Description:: Depending on your inclination, you may perceive Paklenica either as a most convenient venue with rock-climbing of many tastes served on a silver platter - or as an overcommercialized outdoor gym. Paklenica's limestone offers numerous routes of all difficulty, from boulders, short sport routes to harrowing multi-pitch trad adventures. The more frequented sectors are well signposted; benchmark routes are labelled with small plaquettes. Paklenica is a national park. The climbing is restricted to the great gorge. There is an entrance fee to be paid for entering the gorge, 5-day-discounts (within 30 days) are available (check http://paklenica.hr). The narrowest (and most frequented) part of the gorge is a few steps from the parking. Here you can climb also with small children - if you ensure they don't fall down the 1-m-embankment into the creek. Further up in the sides of the canyon there are many multipitch routes in various grades, less suitable for families. The most famous rock formation is Anica Kuk with routes up to 350 m. Most of the routes in Paklenica are well bolted. Grading is in UIAA or in French scale.
Where To Stay:: The close-by town of Starigrad, as well as all villages along the coast, boast a wide selection of accomodation: camping, hotels, villas.

1.1. Vranjska Draga 0 routes in Crag

1.2. A-Klanci 70 routes in Crag

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Long/Lat: 15.472771, 44.306075
Description:: Klanci consits of many small areas like: Parkiraliste, Krokodil, Popaj, Hram, Olimp etc. This area is as perfect sector for whole families (aesier routes) as for lovers of harder sport routes.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Banana Split (A/1Parkiraliste)	5c	Unknown 15m	Stephen White 13 years ago great limestone climbing
2	Rasierklinge ( A/2 Krokodil)	5c	Unknown 9m
3	Auhe (A/3 Auche )	5b	Unknown 13m

1.2.1. A/3 Auhe 4 routes in Sector

Summary:: All Sport

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Auhe	5b	Sport 13m
2	Wiener Würstchen	5a	Sport 13m
3	Marija	3+	Sport 12m
4	Skorpion	4a	Sport 13m

1.2.2. A/4 - Devnjaca 2 routes in Crag

Summary:: All Unknown

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Cuvarkuca	7a+	Unknown 20m
2		Projekt	?	Unknown 15m

1.2.3. A/5 - Jupi 3 routes in Crag

Summary:: All Unknown

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Jupi	6a	Unknown 12m
2	Blutwurst	6a+	Unknown 12m
3	Condor	6a+	Unknown 10m

1.2.4. A/6 - Popaj 8 routes in Sector

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: Sector around the souvenir shop
Approach:: From the second parking, and walk uphill 3 min and find the shop and the sector on your left

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Butterkeks Leftmost route of sector	5c	Sport 18m , 7
2	Oster keks	6a+	Sport 18m
3	Črni gad	6b	Sport 20m
4	Inox (Matio)	6a+	Sport 20m	Melwin Quacke 12 weeks ago Crux near third to last bolt: small footholds
5	Rapina No climbing during opening of shop	7a+	Sport 20m
6	Popaj	6a+	Sport 20m
7	Safety first	5c	Sport 20m	Nicky 13 years ago Abifahrt
8	Mit feiner Klinge	6b+	Sport 25m

1.2.5. A/9 - Figa 3 routes in Crag

Summary:: All Sport

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Nane	4b	Sport 20m
2	Figa	4b+	Sport 20m
3	Mann oder Memme	4b+	Sport 23m

1.2.6. A/10 Veleshit 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Sport

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Veleshit	6b	Sport 17m	Melwin Quacke 12 weeks ago Strenuous enduring small holds
2	II Viaggio	6a+	Sport 18m	Melwin Quacke 12 weeks ago Almost harder than Veleshit
3	Reibeisen	6a+	Sport 18m
4	?	5a	Sport 15m

1.2.7. A/12 - Zighi & Urli 3 routes in Crag

Summary:: All Sport

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Onofrio	6a	Sport 25m
2	Mascherino	6a+	Sport 25m	Melwin Quacke 12 weeks ago Crux at the bulge, and the rest is pure enjoyment. BEWARE: A 60 m rope barely suffices when stan...
3	Gripa	5b	Sport 15m

1.2.8. A/15 - Zava 5 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: Situated on the main pathway from the parking to the Debeli kuk and Anica kuk approach, right past the shop and toilet area.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Biene Maja Name written on base.	6a+	Sport 17m	Melwin Quacke 11 weeks ago Rather hard on polished footholds and long reach in final section.
2	Zajcek	4c	Sport 12m
3	Zava (route)	4b	Sport 13m
4	Cuja ti si bog i batina	5a	Sport
5	Achtung Steinschlag! Labelled.	6b+	Sport 31m

1.2.9. A/16 Karenin 6 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: At its base, there runs a stream, which cuts of the area during winter and spring time. During the summer you can enjoy the shade.
Approach:: Its situated right opposite to A/15 Zava

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	H.S.V.	5a	Sport 11m
2	Psihoza	5a	Sport 15m	Milan Vucinic 12 months ago watch out for crumbling rock
3	Marko & Marko	5a	Sport 17m
4	Baliban	4b	Sport 17m
5	Nasti put	4c	Sport 12m
6	?	5b	Sport 12m

1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska 18 routes in Sector

Summary:: All Sport

	Route	Grade	Style
1	E seguitemi mi sono perso	6c	Sport 40m
2	Hare Krischna	6a+	Sport 40m
3	E dulcis in fundo	6b	Sport 45m
4	Hugga Vugga	6a	Sport
5	Becki	3+	Sport 13m
6	Via Normali	4a	Sport 15m
7	Aanvallluhhhh	6b	Sport 15m
8	Grafiti	6c+	Sport 15m
9	Projekt	9	Sport 15m
10	II Marattoneta	8b+	Sport 15m
11	?	5c	Sport 17m
12	2?	5b	Sport 17m
13	Vuga	4c	Sport 15m
14	Kos	5b	Sport 15m
15	Zuna	5a	Sport 16m
16	Orao	5c	Sport 16m
17	Gea	4b	Sport 16m
18	Mia cara Paolina	6a+	Sport 22m

1.2.11. A/7 Olimp 4 routes in Crag

Summary:: All Sport

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Minerva wall climbing on a hard limestone (small pockets, crags, holes)	6a+	Sport 24m
2	Had	6a	Sport 25m
3	Zeus	6b	Sport 25m , 8
4	Hera a bit difficult start, go on the left side;)	6a+	Sport 25m

1.2.12. A/1 Parkiraliste 7 routes in Crag

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: The closest crag from parking place and entrance to just along the way to others crags in Klanci.

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Petronilla	6b	Sport 20m
2	Kagula	6b	Sport 20m
3	Santana	6c	Sport 20m
4	E.T. Overhang on the top with small crimps.	7a+	Sport 20m
5	Stimula	7a+	Sport 20m
6	Lu-Lu	6b	Sport 20m
7	Joint	6a+	Sport 20m

1.3. B-Veliki Vitrenik 1 route in Area

Summary:: All Trad
Description:: This is the first cliff you see after entering the park, on the left of the road. Great for beginners.

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Oprosti mi pape There is not a lot of bolts on the second pitch, but it is pretty easy climbing.	4a	Trad 110m

1.4. C- Crljenica 0 routes in Cliff

Description:: Prominent cliff with reddish rock and southern exposure on left (true right) side of gorge.
Approach:: Pass park entrance and continue to first rest area on the left. Follow path to gorge, path and scree.

1.5. D - Kukovi ispod Vlake 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Sport
Long/Lat: 15.469126, 44.303198
Description:: Prominent fin of rock west of second parking
Approach:: From the second parking, walk up the slope to reach either the north or south face.
Descent Notes:: Some routes can be rappelled off. If you go to the very top, be prepared for a strenous 10-minute slog down on loose scree.

1.5.1. South face 0 routes in Sector

1.5.1.1. Tron 0 routes in Sector

Description:: Left, uphill part of south face.
Approach:: 5 min of uphill walking

1.5.2. North face 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Nosorog In the north face, climb to ridge at low saddle, then follow the ridge. Rappel from pitch 4 or walk off from top.	4c	Sport 150m
2	Kikos bohrer / Franz warum nicht do vrha?	6a	Sport 100m	Melwin Quacke 12 weeks ago In the second pitch, I was fooled by tempting cracks twice, leading you off the bolted line, whic...
3	Easter Night fever	6b	Sport 35m
4	Lidijin	4c	Sport 90m
5	Joe de Ripper	6a	Sport 90m
6	Vesela obitelj	6a	Sport 70m
7	Borna i Rok	6a	Sport 72m
8	Ada i Sanjski	6a	Sport 50m
9	Unter Geiern	5c	Sport 40m

1.6. Debeli Kuk 2 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,?

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Slovenski PIPS	6a	Sport 200m
2		Diagonalka	6a+	Unknown 200m

1.7. F-Maniti kuk 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:: Remote adventure climbing
Approach:: Follow path to cave Manita pec. Leave path after prominent pinnacle (Zub = tooth) to the left.

1.8. Anica Kuk 24 routes in Crag

Summary:: ?,Sport
Long/Lat: 15.481518, 44.306964
Unique Features And Strengths:: Big wall with many multi-pitch classics
Description:: north, northwest and west exposure.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Rio	7a+	Unknown 350m
2	Jenjavi	7a+	Unknown 350m
3	Albatros	6c	Unknown 350m
4	Rajna	7a	Unknown 350m
5	Velbitaski Old school climbing-corners-cracks-chimneys. No real face climbing but it is Limestone. No.2 of the Trinity, the other two being Mosaraski and the klin	6a+	Sport 350m
6	Waterworld	7b+	Unknown 350m
7	El Condor Pasa	7a	Unknown 350m
8	Brid Clina	7b+	Unknown 350m
9	Welcome - to hell or paradise	7b+	Unknown 350m
10	Subara direkt	6c+	Unknown 350m
11	Klin Old school route as well. Strenuous and exposure is massive on 8th 9th pitch. Clip bolts-old pegs and take Trad gear as well. Pretty well bolted though. Crux can be aided.	6c+	Sport 350m
12	Nostalgija	6b	Unknown 350m
13	Mosoraski Signposted. Starts ~10 m left of giant carabiner replica.	5c	Sport 350m	Melwin Quacke 11 weeks ago Slightly polished in the crux pitch. Some slings and chocks were useful in the wet upper pitches.
14	Zlatne Godine	7c	Unknown 350m
15	Kaurismakis mistake	7a+	Unknown 350m
16	Cvrecev Stup	6c+	Unknown 350m
17	Funkcija	6c+	Unknown 350m
18	Kaca	6a	Unknown 350m
19	Pod Stupom	6a	Unknown 350m
20	Wein, Weib und Gestein	6c+	Unknown 350m
21	D. Brahm	5c	Unknown 330m
22	Vrazja simfonija	4c	Unknown 320m
23	Abseil Pista	4b	Sport 80m
24	Danaja	5b	Sport 100m

1.9. H - Veliki Cuk 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: Large rock formation south of Anika kuk on the right (true left) side of the gorge.

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Sjeverno rebro	4b	Sport 170m
2		Gyps Fulvus	6b+	Sport

1.10. I - Mali Cuk 0 routes in Cliff

Description:: Southwest of Veliki Cuk, north of Kuk od Skradelin on the right (true left) side of gorge.

1.11. Kuk od Skradelin 4 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: Closest area on the right side from parking lot. Mostly aided multipitches around grade 6 in French.

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Andi & Max	5c	Sport 70m
2	Franz Hohensinn	6a+	Sport 60m
3	Faulenzer	6b+	Sport 100m
4	Dreaming the lost friends	6a+	Sport 100m

1.12. Ovcij kuk 1 route in Crag

Summary:: All Alpine

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Prijatelju moj	3+	Alpine 80m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style	Area
3+	Prijatelju moj	Alpine 80m	1.12. Ovcij kuk
	Marija	Sport 12m	1.2.1. A/3 Auhe
	Becki	Sport 13m	1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
4a	Skorpion	Sport 13m	1.2.1. A/3 Auhe
	Via Normali	Sport 15m	1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
	Oprosti mi pape	Trad 110m	1.3. B-Veliki Vitrenik
4b	Nane	Sport 20m	1.2.5. A/9 - Figa
	Zava (route)	Sport 13m	1.2.8. A/15 - Zava
	Baliban	Sport 17m	1.2.9. A/16 Karenin
	Gea	Sport 16m	1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
	Abseil Pista	Sport 80m	1.8. Anica Kuk
	Sjeverno rebro	Sport 170m	1.9. H - Veliki Cuk
4b+	Figa	Sport 20m	1.2.5. A/9 - Figa
	Mann oder Memme	Sport 23m	1.2.5. A/9 - Figa
4c	Zajcek	Sport 12m	1.2.8. A/15 - Zava
	Nasti put	Sport 12m	1.2.9. A/16 Karenin
	Vuga	Sport 15m	1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
	Lidijin	Sport 90m	1.5.2. North face
	Nosorog	Sport 150m	1.5.2. North face
	Vrazja simfonija	Unknown 320m	1.8. Anica Kuk
5a	Wiener Würstchen	Sport 13m	1.2.1. A/3 Auhe
	?	Sport 15m	1.2.6. A/10 Veleshit
	Cuja ti si bog i batina	Sport	1.2.8. A/15 - Zava
	H.S.V.	Sport 11m	1.2.9. A/16 Karenin
	Marko & Marko	Sport 17m	1.2.9. A/16 Karenin
	Psihoza	Sport 15m	1.2.9. A/16 Karenin
	Zuna	Sport 16m	1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
5b	Auhe (A/3 Auche )	Unknown 13m	1.2. A-Klanci
	Auhe	Sport 13m	1.2.1. A/3 Auhe
	Gripa	Sport 15m	1.2.7. A/12 - Zighi & Urli
	?	Sport 12m	1.2.9. A/16 Karenin
	2?	Sport 17m	1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
	Kos	Sport 15m	1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
	Danaja	Sport 100m	1.8. Anica Kuk
5c	Banana Split (A/1Parkiraliste)	Unknown 15m	1.2. A-Klanci
	Rasierklinge ( A/2 Krokodil)	Unknown 9m	1.2. A-Klanci
	Butterkeks	Sport 18m , 7	1.2.4. A/6 - Popaj
	Safety first	Sport 20m	1.2.4. A/6 - Popaj
	?	Sport 17m	1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
	Orao	Sport 16m	1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
	Unter Geiern	Sport 40m	1.5.2. North face
	D. Brahm	Unknown 330m	1.8. Anica Kuk
	Mosoraski	Sport 350m	1.8. Anica Kuk
	Andi & Max	Sport 70m	1.11. Kuk od Skradelin
6a	Jupi	Unknown 12m	1.2.3. A/5 - Jupi
	Onofrio	Sport 25m	1.2.7. A/12 - Zighi & Urli
	Hugga Vugga	Sport	1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
	Had	Sport 25m	1.2.11. A/7 Olimp
	Ada i Sanjski	Sport 50m	1.5.2. North face
	Borna i Rok	Sport 72m	1.5.2. North face
	Joe de Ripper	Sport 90m	1.5.2. North face
	Kikos bohrer	Sport 100m	1.5.2. North face
	Vesela obitelj	Sport 70m	1.5.2. North face
	Slovenski PIPS	Sport 200m	1.6. Debeli Kuk
	Kaca	Unknown 350m	1.8. Anica Kuk
	Pod Stupom	Unknown 350m	1.8. Anica Kuk
6a+	Blutwurst	Unknown 12m	1.2.3. A/5 - Jupi
	Condor	Unknown 10m	1.2.3. A/5 - Jupi
	Inox (Matio)	Sport 20m	1.2.4. A/6 - Popaj
	Oster keks	Sport 18m	1.2.4. A/6 - Popaj
	Popaj	Sport 20m	1.2.4. A/6 - Popaj
	II Viaggio	Sport 18m	1.2.6. A/10 Veleshit
	Reibeisen	Sport 18m	1.2.6. A/10 Veleshit
	Mascherino	Sport 25m	1.2.7. A/12 - Zighi & Urli
	Biene Maja	Sport 17m	1.2.8. A/15 - Zava
	Hare Krischna	Sport 40m	1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
	Mia cara Paolina	Sport 22m	1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
	Hera	Sport 25m	1.2.11. A/7 Olimp
	Minerva	Sport 24m	1.2.11. A/7 Olimp
	Joint	Sport 20m	1.2.12. A/1 Parkiraliste
	Diagonalka	Unknown 200m	1.6. Debeli Kuk
	Velbitaski	Sport 350m	1.8. Anica Kuk
	Dreaming the lost friends	Sport 100m	1.11. Kuk od Skradelin
	Franz Hohensinn	Sport 60m	1.11. Kuk od Skradelin
6b	Črni gad	Sport 20m	1.2.4. A/6 - Popaj
	Veleshit	Sport 17m	1.2.6. A/10 Veleshit
	Aanvallluhhhh	Sport 15m	1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
	E dulcis in fundo	Sport 45m	1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
	Zeus	Sport 25m , 8	1.2.11. A/7 Olimp
	Kagula	Sport 20m	1.2.12. A/1 Parkiraliste
	Lu-Lu	Sport 20m	1.2.12. A/1 Parkiraliste
	Petronilla	Sport 20m	1.2.12. A/1 Parkiraliste
	Easter Night fever	Sport 35m	1.5.2. North face
	Nostalgija	Unknown 350m	1.8. Anica Kuk
6b+	Mit feiner Klinge	Sport 25m	1.2.4. A/6 - Popaj
	Achtung Steinschlag!	Sport 31m	1.2.8. A/15 - Zava
	Gyps Fulvus	Sport	1.9. H - Veliki Cuk
	Faulenzer	Sport 100m	1.11. Kuk od Skradelin
6c	E seguitemi mi sono perso	Sport 40m	1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
	Santana	Sport 20m	1.2.12. A/1 Parkiraliste
	Albatros	Unknown 350m	1.8. Anica Kuk
6c+	Grafiti	Sport 15m	1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
	Cvrecev Stup	Unknown 350m	1.8. Anica Kuk
	Funkcija	Unknown 350m	1.8. Anica Kuk
	Klin	Sport 350m	1.8. Anica Kuk
	Subara direkt	Unknown 350m	1.8. Anica Kuk
	Wein, Weib und Gestein	Unknown 350m	1.8. Anica Kuk
7a	El Condor Pasa	Unknown 350m	1.8. Anica Kuk
	Rajna	Unknown 350m	1.8. Anica Kuk
7a+	Cuvarkuca	Unknown 20m	1.2.2. A/4 - Devnjaca
	Rapina	Sport 20m	1.2.4. A/6 - Popaj
	E.T.	Sport 20m	1.2.12. A/1 Parkiraliste
	Stimula	Sport 20m	1.2.12. A/1 Parkiraliste
	Jenjavi	Unknown 350m	1.8. Anica Kuk
	Kaurismakis mistake	Unknown 350m	1.8. Anica Kuk
	Rio	Unknown 350m	1.8. Anica Kuk
7b+	Brid Clina	Unknown 350m	1.8. Anica Kuk
	Waterworld	Unknown 350m	1.8. Anica Kuk
	Welcome - to hell or paradise	Unknown 350m	1.8. Anica Kuk
7c	Zlatne Godine	Unknown 350m	1.8. Anica Kuk
8b+	II Marattoneta	Sport 15m	1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
9	Projekt	Sport 15m	1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
?	Projekt	Unknown 15m	1.2.2. A/4 - Devnjaca

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Crag Guide for Paklenica (Zadar)