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Table of contents

1. Paklenica (Zadar) 114 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 15.470452, 44.303408

Description:

Depending on your inclination, you may perceive Paklenica either as a most convenient venue with rock-climbing of many tastes served on a silver platter - or as an overcommercialized outdoor gym. Paklenica's limestone offers numerous routes of all difficulty, from boulders, short sport routes to harrowing multi-pitch trad adventures. The more frequented sectors are well signposted; benchmark routes are labelled with small plaquettes. Paklenica is a national park. The climbing is restricted to the great gorge. There is an entrance fee to be paid for entering the gorge, 5-day-discounts (within 30 days) are available (check http://paklenica.hr). The narrowest (and most frequented) part of the gorge is a few steps from the parking. Here you can climb also with small children - if you ensure they don't fall down the 1-m-embankment into the creek. Further up in the sides of the canyon there are many multipitch routes in various grades, less suitable for families. The most famous rock formation is Anica Kuk with routes up to 350 m. Most of the routes in Paklenica are well bolted. Grading is in UIAA or in French scale.

Where To Stay:

The close-by town of Starigrad, as well as all villages along the coast, boast a wide selection of accomodation: camping, hotels, villas.

1.1. Vranjska Draga 0 routes in Crag

1.2. A-Klanci 71 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 15.472771, 44.306075

Description:

Klanci consits of many small areas like: Parkiraliste, Krokodil, Popaj, Hram, Olimp etc. This area is as perfect sector for whole families (aesier routes) as for lovers of harder sport routes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Banana Split (A/1Parkiraliste) 5cUnknown 15m
2 * Rasierklinge ( A/2 Krokodil) 5cUnknown 9m
3 Auhe (A/3 Auche ) 5bUnknown 13m

1.2.1. A/3 Auhe 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Auhe 5bSport 13m
2 Wiener Würstchen 5aSport 13m
3 Marija 3+Sport 12m
4 Skorpion 4aSport 13m

1.2.2. A/4 - Devnjaca 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cuvarkuca 7a+Unknown 20m
2 Projekt ?Unknown 15m

1.2.3. A/5 - Jupi 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jupi 6aUnknown 12m
2 Blutwurst 6a+Unknown 12m
3 Condor 6a+Unknown 10m

1.2.4. A/6 - Popaj 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Sector around the souvenir shop

Approach:

From the second parking, and walk uphill 3 min and find the shop and the sector on your left

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Butterkeks

Leftmost route of sector

5cSport 18m, 7
2 Oster keks 6a+Sport 18m
3 Črni gad 6bSport 20m
4 Inox (Matio) 6a+Sport 20m
5 Rapina

No climbing during opening of shop

7a+Sport 20m
6 Popaj 6a+Sport 20m
7 Safety first 5cSport 20m
8 Mit feiner Klinge 6b+Sport 25m

1.2.5. A/9 - Figa 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nane 4bSport 20m
2 Figa 4b+Sport 20m
3 Mann oder Memme 4b+Sport 23m

1.2.6. A/10 Veleshit 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Veleshit 6bSport 17m
2 II Viaggio 6a+Sport 18m
3 Reibeisen 6a+Sport 18m
4 ? 5aSport 15m

1.2.7. A/12 - Zighi & Urli 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Onofrio 6aSport 25m
2 Mascherino 6a+Sport 25m
3 Gripa 5bSport 15m

1.2.8. A/15 - Zava 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Situated on the main pathway from the parking to the Debeli kuk and Anica kuk approach, right past the shop and toilet area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Biene Maja

Name written on base.

6a+Sport 17m
2 Zajcek 4cSport 12m
3 Zava (route) 4bSport 13m
4 Cuja ti si bog i batina 5aSport
5 Achtung Steinschlag!

Labelled.

6b+Sport 31m
6 ** Matane ti si car 5cSport

1.2.9. A/16 Karenin 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

At its base, there runs a stream, which cuts of the area during winter and spring time. During the summer you can enjoy the shade.

Approach:

Its situated right opposite to A/15 Zava

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 H.S.V. 5aSport 11m
2 Psihoza 5aSport 15m
3 Marko & Marko 5aSport 17m
4 Baliban 4bSport 17m
5 Nasti put 4cSport 12m
6 ? 5bSport 12m

1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska 18 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 E seguitemi mi sono perso 6cSport 40m
2 Hare Krischna 6a+Sport 40m
3 E dulcis in fundo 6bSport 45m
4 Hugga Vugga 6aSport
5 Becki 3+Sport 13m
6 Via Normali 4aSport 15m
7 Aanvallluhhhh 6bSport 15m
8 Grafiti 6c+Sport 15m
9 Projekt 9Sport 15m
10 II Marattoneta 8b+Sport 15m
11 ? 5cSport 17m
12 2? 5bSport 17m
13 Vuga 4cSport 15m
14 Kos 5bSport 15m
15 Zuna 5aSport 16m
16 Orao 5cSport 16m
17 Gea 4bSport 16m
18 Mia cara Paolina 6a+Sport 22m

1.2.11. A/7 Olimp 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Minerva

wall climbing on a hard limestone (small pockets, crags, holes)

6a+Sport 24m
2 Had 6aSport 25m
3 Zeus 6bSport 25m, 8
4 Hera

a bit difficult start, go on the left side;)

6a+Sport 25m

1.2.12. A/1 Parkiraliste 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The closest crag from parking place and entrance to just along the way to others crags in Klanci.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Petronilla 6bSport 20m
2 Kagula 6bSport 20m
3 Santana 6cSport 20m
4 E.T.

Overhang on the top with small crimps.

7a+Sport 20m
5 Stimula 7a+Sport 20m
6 Lu-Lu 6bSport 20m
7 Joint 6a+Sport 20m

1.3. B-Veliki Vitrenik 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

This is the first cliff you see after entering the park, on the left of the road. Great for beginners.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Oprosti mi pape

There is not a lot of bolts on the second pitch, but it is pretty easy climbing.

4aTrad 110m

1.4. C- Crljenica 0 routes in Cliff

Description:

Prominent cliff with reddish rock and southern exposure on left (true right) side of gorge.

Approach:

Pass park entrance and continue to first rest area on the left. Follow path to gorge, path and scree.

1.5. D - Kukovi ispod Vlake 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 15.469126, 44.303198

Description:

Prominent fin of rock west of second parking

Approach:

From the second parking, walk up the slope to reach either the north or south face.

Descent Notes:

Some routes can be rappelled off. If you go to the very top, be prepared for a strenous 10-minute slog down on loose scree.

1.5.1. South face 0 routes in Sector

1.5.1.1. Tron 0 routes in Sector
Description:

Left, uphill part of south face.

Approach:

5 min of uphill walking

1.5.2. North face 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nosorog

In the north face, climb to ridge at low saddle, then follow the ridge. Rappel from pitch 4 or walk off from top.

4cSport 150m
2 ** Kikos bohrer / Franz warum nicht do vrha? 6aSport 100m
3 Easter Night fever 6bSport 35m
4 Lidijin 4cSport 90m
5 Joe de Ripper 6aSport 90m
6 Vesela obitelj 6aSport 70m
7 ** Borna i Rok 6aSport 72m
8 Ada i Sanjski 6aSport 50m
9 Unter Geiern 5cSport 40m

1.6. Debeli Kuk 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Slovenski PIPS 6aSport 200m
2 Diagonalka 6a+Unknown 200m

1.7. F-Maniti kuk 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

Remote adventure climbing

Approach:

Follow path to cave Manita pec. Leave path after prominent pinnacle (Zub = tooth) to the left.

1.8. Anica Kuk 24 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 15.481518, 44.306964

Unique Features And Strengths:

Big wall with many multi-pitch classics

Description:

north, northwest and west exposure.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rio 7a+Unknown 350m
2 Jenjavi 7a+Unknown 350m
3 Albatros 6cUnknown 350m
4 Rajna 7aUnknown 350m
5 *** Velbitaski

Old school climbing-corners-cracks-chimneys. No real face climbing but it is Limestone. No.2 of the Trinity, the other two being Mosaraski and the klin

6a+Sport 350m
6 Waterworld 7b+Unknown 350m
7 El Condor Pasa 7aUnknown 350m
8 Brid Clina 7b+Unknown 350m
9 Welcome - to hell or paradise 7b+Unknown 350m
10 Subara direkt 6c+Unknown 350m
11 *** Klin

Old school route as well. Strenuous and exposure is massive on 8th 9th pitch. Clip bolts-old pegs and take Trad gear as well. Pretty well bolted though. Crux can be aided.

6c+Sport 350m
12 Nostalgija 6bUnknown 350m
13 *** Mosoraski

Signposted. Starts ~10 m left of giant carabiner replica.

5cSport 350m
14 Zlatne Godine 7cUnknown 350m
15 Kaurismakis mistake 7a+Unknown 350m
16 Cvrecev Stup 6c+Unknown 350m
17 Funkcija 6c+Unknown 350m
18 Kaca 6aUnknown 350m
19 Pod Stupom 6aUnknown 350m
20 Wein, Weib und Gestein 6c+Unknown 350m
21 D. Brahm 5cUnknown 330m
22 Vrazja simfonija 4cUnknown 320m
23 Abseil Pista 4bSport 80m
24 Danaja 5bSport 100m

1.9. H - Veliki Cuk 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Large rock formation south of Anika kuk on the right (true left) side of the gorge.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sjeverno rebro 4bSport 170m
2 *** Gyps Fulvus 6b+Sport

1.10. I - Mali Cuk 0 routes in Cliff

Description:

Southwest of Veliki Cuk, north of Kuk od Skradelin on the right (true left) side of gorge.

1.11. Kuk od Skradelin 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Closest area on the right side from parking lot. Mostly aided multipitches around grade 6 in French.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Andi & Max 5cSport 70m
2 Franz Hohensinn 6a+Sport 60m
3 Faulenzer 6b+Sport 100m
4 Dreaming the lost friends 6a+Sport 100m

1.12. Ovcij kuk 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Alpine
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Prijatelju moj 3+Alpine 80m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
3+ Prijatelju moj Alpine 80m 1.12. Ovcij kuk
Marija Sport 12m 1.2.1. A/3 Auhe
Becki Sport 13m 1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
4a Skorpion Sport 13m 1.2.1. A/3 Auhe
Via Normali Sport 15m 1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
Oprosti mi pape Trad 110m 1.3. B-Veliki Vitrenik
4b Nane Sport 20m 1.2.5. A/9 - Figa
Zava (route) Sport 13m 1.2.8. A/15 - Zava
Baliban Sport 17m 1.2.9. A/16 Karenin
Gea Sport 16m 1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
Abseil Pista Sport 80m 1.8. Anica Kuk
Sjeverno rebro Sport 170m 1.9. H - Veliki Cuk
4b+ Figa Sport 20m 1.2.5. A/9 - Figa
Mann oder Memme Sport 23m 1.2.5. A/9 - Figa
4c Zajcek Sport 12m 1.2.8. A/15 - Zava
Nasti put Sport 12m 1.2.9. A/16 Karenin
Vuga Sport 15m 1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
Lidijin Sport 90m 1.5.2. North face
Nosorog Sport 150m 1.5.2. North face
Vrazja simfonija Unknown 320m 1.8. Anica Kuk
5a Wiener Würstchen Sport 13m 1.2.1. A/3 Auhe
? Sport 15m 1.2.6. A/10 Veleshit
Cuja ti si bog i batina Sport 1.2.8. A/15 - Zava
H.S.V. Sport 11m 1.2.9. A/16 Karenin
Marko & Marko Sport 17m 1.2.9. A/16 Karenin
Psihoza Sport 15m 1.2.9. A/16 Karenin
Zuna Sport 16m 1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
5b Auhe (A/3 Auche ) Unknown 13m 1.2. A-Klanci
Auhe Sport 13m 1.2.1. A/3 Auhe
Gripa Sport 15m 1.2.7. A/12 - Zighi & Urli
? Sport 12m 1.2.9. A/16 Karenin
2? Sport 17m 1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
Kos Sport 15m 1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
Danaja Sport 100m 1.8. Anica Kuk
5c * Banana Split (A/1Parkiraliste) Unknown 15m 1.2. A-Klanci
* Rasierklinge ( A/2 Krokodil) Unknown 9m 1.2. A-Klanci
Butterkeks Sport 18m, 7 1.2.4. A/6 - Popaj
Safety first Sport 20m 1.2.4. A/6 - Popaj
** Matane ti si car Sport 1.2.8. A/15 - Zava
? Sport 17m 1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
Orao Sport 16m 1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
Unter Geiern Sport 40m 1.5.2. North face
D. Brahm Unknown 330m 1.8. Anica Kuk
*** Mosoraski Sport 350m 1.8. Anica Kuk
Andi & Max Sport 70m 1.11. Kuk od Skradelin
6a Jupi Unknown 12m 1.2.3. A/5 - Jupi
Onofrio Sport 25m 1.2.7. A/12 - Zighi & Urli
Hugga Vugga Sport 1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
Had Sport 25m 1.2.11. A/7 Olimp
Ada i Sanjski Sport 50m 1.5.2. North face
** Borna i Rok Sport 72m 1.5.2. North face
Joe de Ripper Sport 90m 1.5.2. North face
** Kikos bohrer Sport 100m 1.5.2. North face
Vesela obitelj Sport 70m 1.5.2. North face
Slovenski PIPS Sport 200m 1.6. Debeli Kuk
Kaca Unknown 350m 1.8. Anica Kuk
Pod Stupom Unknown 350m 1.8. Anica Kuk
6a+ Blutwurst Unknown 12m 1.2.3. A/5 - Jupi
Condor Unknown 10m 1.2.3. A/5 - Jupi
Inox (Matio) Sport 20m 1.2.4. A/6 - Popaj
Oster keks Sport 18m 1.2.4. A/6 - Popaj
Popaj Sport 20m 1.2.4. A/6 - Popaj
II Viaggio Sport 18m 1.2.6. A/10 Veleshit
Reibeisen Sport 18m 1.2.6. A/10 Veleshit
Mascherino Sport 25m 1.2.7. A/12 - Zighi & Urli
Biene Maja Sport 17m 1.2.8. A/15 - Zava
Hare Krischna Sport 40m 1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
Mia cara Paolina Sport 22m 1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
Hera Sport 25m 1.2.11. A/7 Olimp
Minerva Sport 24m 1.2.11. A/7 Olimp
Joint Sport 20m 1.2.12. A/1 Parkiraliste
Diagonalka Unknown 200m 1.6. Debeli Kuk
*** Velbitaski Sport 350m 1.8. Anica Kuk
Dreaming the lost friends Sport 100m 1.11. Kuk od Skradelin
Franz Hohensinn Sport 60m 1.11. Kuk od Skradelin
6b Črni gad Sport 20m 1.2.4. A/6 - Popaj
Veleshit Sport 17m 1.2.6. A/10 Veleshit
Aanvallluhhhh Sport 15m 1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
E dulcis in fundo Sport 45m 1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
Zeus Sport 25m, 8 1.2.11. A/7 Olimp
Kagula Sport 20m 1.2.12. A/1 Parkiraliste
Lu-Lu Sport 20m 1.2.12. A/1 Parkiraliste
Petronilla Sport 20m 1.2.12. A/1 Parkiraliste
Easter Night fever Sport 35m 1.5.2. North face
Nostalgija Unknown 350m 1.8. Anica Kuk
6b+ Mit feiner Klinge Sport 25m 1.2.4. A/6 - Popaj
Achtung Steinschlag! Sport 31m 1.2.8. A/15 - Zava
*** Gyps Fulvus Sport 1.9. H - Veliki Cuk
Faulenzer Sport 100m 1.11. Kuk od Skradelin
6c E seguitemi mi sono perso Sport 40m 1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
Santana Sport 20m 1.2.12. A/1 Parkiraliste
Albatros Unknown 350m 1.8. Anica Kuk
6c+ Grafiti Sport 15m 1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
Cvrecev Stup Unknown 350m 1.8. Anica Kuk
Funkcija Unknown 350m 1.8. Anica Kuk
*** Klin Sport 350m 1.8. Anica Kuk
Subara direkt Unknown 350m 1.8. Anica Kuk
Wein, Weib und Gestein Unknown 350m 1.8. Anica Kuk
7a El Condor Pasa Unknown 350m 1.8. Anica Kuk
Rajna Unknown 350m 1.8. Anica Kuk
7a+ Cuvarkuca Unknown 20m 1.2.2. A/4 - Devnjaca
Rapina Sport 20m 1.2.4. A/6 - Popaj
E.T. Sport 20m 1.2.12. A/1 Parkiraliste
Stimula Sport 20m 1.2.12. A/1 Parkiraliste
Jenjavi Unknown 350m 1.8. Anica Kuk
Kaurismakis mistake Unknown 350m 1.8. Anica Kuk
Rio Unknown 350m 1.8. Anica Kuk
7b+ Brid Clina Unknown 350m 1.8. Anica Kuk
Waterworld Unknown 350m 1.8. Anica Kuk
Welcome - to hell or paradise Unknown 350m 1.8. Anica Kuk
7c Zlatne Godine Unknown 350m 1.8. Anica Kuk
8b+ II Marattoneta Sport 15m 1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
9 Projekt Sport 15m 1.2.10. A/17 Ljuska
? Projekt Unknown 15m 1.2.2. A/4 - Devnjaca