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Soví věž

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 19
  • Aka: Eulenturm

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Ostrov

Get the local climbing guidebook from Refugio Tisá, HUDY Hřensko possibly also from the local camp. Two options available:

TOPO guide in German and English, 2020 uses standardized saxon grading system wherever the grade is known (marked with "RP"). If no "RP" is written, only the JPK grading is known and you may expect anything.

Průvodce Ostrov, standard czech text guide, 2021, Pay special attention as it uses the traditional JPK grading system (see grading in description).

Ethic inherited from Labské pískovce

Check particular areas for more detailed rules and nature protecton restrictions. General czech sandstone rules apply in all areas:

  1. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.

  2. No changing of the rock surface.

  3. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  4. No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)

  5. First ascents shall be consulted upfront with the area administrator. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/

  6. Further local rules apply depending on the level of protection. See the particular area details.

Routes

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Grade Route

In Mitte O-Wand z.G.

Wand

FA: Gerhard Tschunko & E.Tschunková

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIa

FA: Milan Kulič, M.Urban, D.Pletánková & J.Soukup, 1983

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIa

FA: Karel Bělina, J.Nedvědický, M.Matras & S.Fišer, 1980

FA: Miloš Matras & J.Budín

FA: Tomáš Sobotka und Ondřej Beneš, 2004

FA: Karel Bělina & T. Vlček, 2009

FA: Karel Bělina & J.Bělina, 1979

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = V

FA: Wolfgang Bruch & R.Wokržínek, 1963

FA: František Žid und Karel Bělina & J.Voves, 1981

FA: Karel Bělina, H.Mathe & H.Tesch, 1980

FA: Tomáš Vlček und Karel Bělina & S.Pavlátová, 2009

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = V

FA: Karel Bělina & F.Žid, 1981

FA: Jan Paul, 2011

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gerald Krug

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9783981951585

Dieser Kletterführer beschreibt alle Tradrouten an den Sandsteingipfeln rund um Ostrov. Die Fakten: 400 Felsen, 750 Fototopos, 3800 Routen. Der Komplettführer ist zwei (-einhalb)sprachig: Deutsch, Englisch, z.T. Tschechisch (Gipfel und Routen).

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Tue 18 Apr
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