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5.5 R ** Nkuli Dancing Unknown 120m

A nice 300 foot (100 meter) crag , with a very short approach, on the north side of the Ruhengeri-Gisenyi road, about 15 minutes drive from Ruhengeri. Expect a crowd (and some run outs!). The east side of the cliff is characterized by very steep rock with few cracks. The routes described here are on the lower angled south face closer to the road. Much of the protection is ancient bolts that look like pitons driven into the rock.

Quickly viewing the cliff from the road (before you are surrounded by children), you will observe a high point of land with eucalyptus trees at the center of the cliff base. Nkuli Dancing starts 2/3 of the way (100 feet) down to the right from this apex, directly below an old bolt.

  1. Up the nice slab past three old bolts to a pleasant stance with three bolts. 100 feet, 5.4 **

  2. Climb the slab above (with one bolt to the left) toward a grassy ledge. Pass the grass at its right edge and traverse back left to an awkward hanging belay with 2 bolts. (Note: expect some kids to join you at this ledge by boldly traversing across the face from the right.) 60 feet, 5.4

  3. This is the crux pitch if you follow the standard route without the variations described below. Exposed traverse left, crossing a large inside corner, then straight up a face passing one bolt before a run out. Eventually step right over a grassy ribbon to an awkward standing belay with two pins. 100 feet, 5.5 R

  4. Up slabs to the top. 90 feet, 5.5 R

FA: unknown


See description for Nkuli Dancing for direction to the area.

Alternatives to the first pitch (ending at the same belay stance as pitch one):

1a. Start a little lower to the right (facing the cliff) and join the regular route part way up. Nice climbing, but a bit run out. 100 feet, 5.5 R **

1b. Start closer to the apex and follow a rising traverse (with crack) right to join the regular route ¾ of the way up. 110 feet, 5.5

FA: unknown


See description for Nmuli Dancing for direction to the area.

3a. Head right to a thin move past a pin/bolt, then continue right to a grassy ledge with little for an anchor. 100 feet, 5.7

4a. Continue right without protection to the top. 90 feet, 5.5 R

FA: unknown


See Nkuli dancing descriptiuon for direction to the area.

3b. Step slightly left then climb unprotected rock just right of the obvious inside corner. Unprotected moves right lead to a curved arch and a semi-hanging nut belay. 60 feet, 5.5 R

4b. Step left and up nice white rock to a dubious small friend placement, then sustained, thought provoking climbing without protection to the top. 60 feet, 5.7 X

FA: Doug Teschner & Erin Shutes , 2004

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