Komovi Mostly sport climbing37 routes in region
- Grades: UIAA
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Mt Komovi is a rather large mountain range in the eastern part of Montenegro, almost along the very border with Albania. Mt Komovi massif stretches in the direction SW-NE in a length of around 7 kms. The highest areas consist of the two obvious ridges stretching almost parallel to each other. These two ridges are divided by the large stony Medjukomlje pass. The east ridge is Vasojevićki Kom Peak(2460 m), while in the west ridge there are two dominant peaks - Kučki Kom Summit, at the same time the highest point of this massif (2484), and Ljevorečki Kom Peak, also known by the name of Sjeverni vrh(the North Peak). Due to the poor quality of rocks Mt Komovi is primarily a winter climbing area. A large number of technically undemanding lines provide nice climbing in the good snow conditions. The most attractive route is still Dijadema (The Diadem), 3.5 kms, a continuous ridge traversing: Vasojevićki Kom-Bavani-Kučki Kom-Medjukom and Ljevorečki Kom. First traversing was performed in 1956, and the first and so far the only, winter repeat was performed in 1967. A 400-meter high west rock face of Vasojevićki Kom Peak, still unclimbed, can be especially attractive for climbing in the winter months. Approach to the base of this rock is from Štavna plateau in the direction of Medjukomlje - 1 hr.
How to get there
You can reach Komovi from the direction of Kolašin, Andrijevica and Podgorica. All access directions lead towards the Trešnjevik pass, on the road Kolašin-Andrijevica, from where it takes further few kilometres to the foot of the mountain. In Kolašin one should turn towards Mateševo, a small village 10 kms far from Kolašin. On the crossroads in Mateševo one should turn left and via Bare Kraljske, along a narrow bendy asphalt road through wonderful areas and beech forests reach the Trešnjevik pass (1570 m). Then by the pub turn right onto a solid road through the forest, further few kilometers to the Štavna plateau at the foot of the Vasojevićki Kom Peak, which is the best starting point for all mountain climbing/alpine climbing activities on Mt Komovi. If you are staying in Podgorica and want to visit Mt Komovi, but you want to avoid summer traffic jams in the Morača River Canyon, then from the main road in the Bioče village, 10 km from Podgorica, turn onto the travel route to Lijeva Rijeka and Veruša (narrow asphalt road with a million of bends; it is not recommended in the winter months) which will take you to Mateševo from where further on you should take the already described road. Note: last kilometres of the access directions to the Trešnjevik pass from Kolašin and Andrijevica are impassable every winter for several months. Also, one should be aware that not even one bus runs along the travel route Kolašin - Andrijevica.
There are several accommodation options at the Štavna plateau. During the summer months you can opt for camping, space can't lack or you can stay in eco-katun (eco-cottage summer settlement), a newly built accommodation facility with five-bed wooden cottages, and a restaurant. Rent of one five-bed wooden cottage costs 25 euros per day. Also, it is possible sleep over in the log cabin-shelter, which is owned by the Mountaineering Association Železničar. If you find yourself on Mt Komovi in the winter, besides the log cabin of Železničar, it is also possible to stay in one of the cottages in the katuns left unlocked by the owners during the winter months. In order to stay in the eco- katun during the winter months one is required to call and make a reservation in advance. At the Štavna plateau there are several springs with drinkable water.©
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