Gusinje Mostly Sport climbing97 routes in crag
- Grades: UIAA
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Until recently Mt Prokletije has been a bait only for the masters of traditional climbing in big walls of this mountain where there are few easy and short routes. From May 2008 in the foot of these mountains sport climbing has started to live as well, owing to a group of German climbers, who, with the assistance of the German organization for technical support and cooperation-GTZ, have equipped about 100 routes in the Ropojana Valley and Grbaja Valley, southwards from Gusinje. The largest number of routes is located in the sectors near Alipašini izvori, which could be a little bit cleaner, too. Visits made so far say that the best sector is Djerani, Troja Sector is pretty loose, while the two sectors in Grbaja Valley are around 10kms away and we still haven't got more precise data regarding those. Climbing season lasts from April/May to October/November. Pretty large number of sectors with different orientation provides an opportunity for climbing even in the warmest summer days.
How to Get There?
Gusinje is about 200 kms away from Podgorica. You'll need a minimum of 3-hour drive from the capital city, and perhaps even more if you find yourself stuck in some of the frequent summer traffic jams in the Morača Canyon or come across the roadworks. From Kolašin you can choose between two travel routes, one leading further along the main road via Mojkovac, Bijelo Polje, Berane, Andrijevica and Plav to Gusinje. This road is much longer, but also much better than the travel route running from Kolašin towards Mateševo via Bare Kraljske, past Komovi, over Trešnjevik pass to Andrijevica where it joins the above-mentioned route. Road over Mateševo is currently in a shabby condition, therefore we recommend you to take it only if you don't really care too much about your car, although you'll enjoy the view of Mt Komovi and soon forget giant potholes on the road. It takes 5 minutes by car or a 20 minute hike to get from Gusinje to the sector in the surroundings of Alipašini izvori. Two sectors in the Grbaja valley are about 8kms away from Gusinje.
In the Grbaja valley there are two mountain huts. One is the ownership of PD Radnički (Mountaineering Association Radnički) from Belgrade; it is permanently open only during the summer months, but it can be used the rest of the year as well. The other hut is the ownership of the mountaineers from Plav and Gusinje and is generally closed to the public. Apart from the hut, one can rent one of the several little log cabins, which can accommodate one rather big Šarplaninac(Yugoslav Shepherd Dog) or two men not taller than 170cm in lying position. Anyway, our recommendation is - be sure to bring along your tents. Camping is not banned anywhere, but if you really aimed at some meadow near the houses, ask the owners for permission.©
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