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Table of contents

1. Gusinje 97 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 19.817450, 42.530553

Description:©

Introduction

Until recently Mt Prokletije has been a bait only for the masters of traditional climbing in big walls of this mountain where there are few easy and short routes. From May 2008 in the foot of these mountains sport climbing has started to live as well, owing to a group of German climbers, who, with the assistance of the German organization for technical support and cooperation-GTZ, have equipped about 100 routes in the Ropojana Valley and Grbaja Valley, southwards from Gusinje. The largest number of routes is located in the sectors near Alipašini izvori, which could be a little bit cleaner, too. Visits made so far say that the best sector is Djerani, Troja Sector is pretty loose, while the two sectors in Grbaja Valley are around 10kms away and we still haven't got more precise data regarding those. Climbing season lasts from April/May to October/November. Pretty large number of sectors with different orientation provides an opportunity for climbing even in the warmest summer days.

How to Get There?

Gusinje is about 200 kms away from Podgorica. You'll need a minimum of 3-hour drive from the capital city, and perhaps even more if you find yourself stuck in some of the frequent summer traffic jams in the Morača Canyon or come across the roadworks. From Kolašin you can choose between two travel routes, one leading further along the main road via Mojkovac, Bijelo Polje, Berane, Andrijevica and Plav to Gusinje. This road is much longer, but also much better than the travel route running from Kolašin towards Mateševo via Bare Kraljske, past Komovi, over Trešnjevik pass to Andrijevica where it joins the above-mentioned route. Road over Mateševo is currently in a shabby condition, therefore we recommend you to take it only if you don't really care too much about your car, although you'll enjoy the view of Mt Komovi and soon forget giant potholes on the road. It takes 5 minutes by car or a 20 minute hike to get from Gusinje to the sector in the surroundings of Alipašini izvori. Two sectors in the Grbaja valley are about 8kms away from Gusinje.

Accommodation

In the Grbaja valley there are two mountain huts. One is the ownership of PD Radnički (Mountaineering Association Radnički) from Belgrade; it is permanently open only during the summer months, but it can be used the rest of the year as well. The other hut is the ownership of the mountaineers from Plav and Gusinje and is generally closed to the public. Apart from the hut, one can rent one of the several little log cabins, which can accommodate one rather big Šarplaninac(Yugoslav Shepherd Dog) or two men not taller than 170cm in lying position. Anyway, our recommendation is - be sure to bring along your tents. Camping is not banned anywhere, but if you really aimed at some meadow near the houses, ask the owners for permission.

1.1. Main Area 61 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 19.824011, 42.547980

1.1.1. Sektor Verticali 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:©

15 – 20 min walk from the vtown of Gusinje.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Radikali 6bSport
2 Steinregen 5cSport
3 Izet is driving today 6c+Sport
4 Zuvdija is cooking today 6cSport
5 Horizontali 7c+Sport
6 Unnamed 7c+Sport
7 Clim-Bing 6aSport

1.1.2. Sektor Pyramide 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Die Mumie 7a+Sport
2 Pharao 6c+Sport
3 Sphinx 6b+Sport
4 Amandas Krautergarten 5aSport
5 BARKfest 7a+Sport
6 Hakenleiter 6a+Sport
7 Banane 6bSport

1.1.3. Sektor Risse 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Corner Crack 5cSport
2 Meister Proper 5cSport
3 Abgerissen 6c+Sport
4 Life could be so slow and painful 6b+Sport
5 Trollspalte 6aSport
6 Putzteufel 6b+Sport
7 Klein aber fein 6a+Sport
8 Hexenrics and Friends 6bSport
9 Jockl 7cSport
10 Long way to the top 7aSport

1.1.4. Sektor Central 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dobro juto 6ABoulder
2 Dobar dan 6ABoulder
3 Flora 5CBoulder
4 Fauna 5CBoulder
5 Grabowski 6CBoulder
6 Survival of the fittest 7cSport
7 Apollo 13 6c+Sport
8 Kosovonaut 6a+Sport
9 Das Maedchen m. d. rauen Haenden 5b+Sport
10 Mensur 6a A1Sport
11 Damokles 7bSport
12 Friedhof der Stacheltiere 6bSport
13 Auskneifer 6a+Sport
14 Jetzt ist aber Schluss 4bSport
15 Spacewalk 5cSport
16 Challenger 6cSport
17 Nuff 6aSport

1.1.5. Sektor BlokNik 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Boulder
1.1.5.1. East Face 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 NoTechNik 3Sport
2 BotaNik 3Sport
3 PickNik 3Sport
4 BlasfeNik 3Sport
5 NoPaNik 4bSport
1.1.5.2. South Face 5 routes in Sector
Summary:
Sport and Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 BioNik 4cSport
2 SputNik 5cSport
3 SaNIK 5ABoulder
4 NIKgold 5ABoulder
5 ElektroNik 6aSport

1.1.6. Sektor Platten 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Electric Avenue 6aSport
2 Ali Baba 5cSport
3 Pec 1 4bSport
4 Pec 2 5aSport
5 Pec 3 5aSport
6 Schwänchen 5aSport
7 Scheherezade 5cSport
8 Fairytale of Friction 6aSport
9 Lillies Variant 5aSport
10 Lillies Lullaby 5c+Sport

1.2. Troja 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 19.833388, 42.542542

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Das 5. Element 6bSport
2 Pivograd 7aSport
3 Für Lisa 6cSport
4 Rumundraus 6aSport
5 Projekt Sport Project
6 Drillirium 7aSport
7 Maga Baba 5bSport
8 Julien G. 7b+Sport
9 Kopftuchdilemma 6b+Sport
10 Gina Wild 7c+Sport

1.3. Gerani 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 19.836585, 42.536012

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lost in Space 7a+Sport
2 Mars attacks 7bSport
3 Niksicko Pivo 6cSport
4 Blinder Stier 6c+Sport
5 Tric und Trac 6aSport
6 Kosmonaut 6a+Sport
7 Crna Skorpion 6aSport
8 Regen unter Dach 6cSport
9 Rada 2L 6b+Sport
10 Prada 6bSport
11 Hangel 4Sport
12 Voda gora 6bSport
13 Fuchur 7aSport

1.4. Domacin 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 19.786567, 42.516040

Description:©

Domacin is in the Grbaja valley, about 8km far from town, but hitchhiking works well.

1.4.1. East Face 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stara cesta 2Sport
2 My Fair Lady 2Sport
3 Kinderrutsche 5Sport
4 Kinderturnen 4Sport
5 Jojo2 4Sport
6 Jojo1 3Sport

1.4.2. South Face 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kinderfasching 4Sport
2 Kinderschreck 5cSport
3 Jekyll und Hyde 6aSport
4 Liliput kaputt 6cSport
5 Projekt 8a+Sport Project
6 Onsight Stopper 7b+Sport
7 Sauschaf 6a+Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
2 My Fair Lady Sport 1.4.1. East Face
Stara cesta Sport 1.4.1. East Face
3 BlasfeNik Sport 1.1.5.1. East Face
BotaNik Sport 1.1.5.1. East Face
NoTechNik Sport 1.1.5.1. East Face
PickNik Sport 1.1.5.1. East Face
Jojo1 Sport 1.4.1. East Face
4 Hangel Sport 1.3. Gerani
Jojo2 Sport 1.4.1. East Face
Kinderturnen Sport 1.4.1. East Face
Kinderfasching Sport 1.4.2. South Face
4b Jetzt ist aber Schluss Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
NoPaNik Sport 1.1.5.1. East Face
Pec 1 Sport 1.1.6. Sektor Platten
4c BioNik Sport 1.1.5.2. South Face
5a Amandas Krautergarten Sport 1.1.2. Sektor Pyramide
Lillies Variant Sport 1.1.6. Sektor Platten
Pec 2 Sport 1.1.6. Sektor Platten
Pec 3 Sport 1.1.6. Sektor Platten
Schwänchen Sport 1.1.6. Sektor Platten
5 Kinderrutsche Sport 1.4.1. East Face
5b Maga Baba Sport 1.2. Troja
5b+ Das Maedchen m. d. rauen Haenden Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
5c Steinregen Sport 1.1.1. Sektor Verticali
Corner Crack Sport 1.1.3. Sektor Risse
Meister Proper Sport 1.1.3. Sektor Risse
Spacewalk Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
SputNik Sport 1.1.5.2. South Face
Ali Baba Sport 1.1.6. Sektor Platten
Scheherezade Sport 1.1.6. Sektor Platten
Kinderschreck Sport 1.4.2. South Face
5c+ Lillies Lullaby Sport 1.1.6. Sektor Platten
6a Clim-Bing Sport 1.1.1. Sektor Verticali
Trollspalte Sport 1.1.3. Sektor Risse
Nuff Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
ElektroNik Sport 1.1.5.2. South Face
Electric Avenue Sport 1.1.6. Sektor Platten
Fairytale of Friction Sport 1.1.6. Sektor Platten
Rumundraus Sport 1.2. Troja
Crna Skorpion Sport 1.3. Gerani
Tric und Trac Sport 1.3. Gerani
Jekyll und Hyde Sport 1.4.2. South Face
6a A1 Mensur Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
5A NIKgold Boulder 1.1.5.2. South Face
SaNIK Boulder 1.1.5.2. South Face
6a+ Hakenleiter Sport 1.1.2. Sektor Pyramide
Klein aber fein Sport 1.1.3. Sektor Risse
Auskneifer Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
Kosovonaut Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
Kosmonaut Sport 1.3. Gerani
Sauschaf Sport 1.4.2. South Face
6b Radikali Sport 1.1.1. Sektor Verticali
Banane Sport 1.1.2. Sektor Pyramide
Hexenrics and Friends Sport 1.1.3. Sektor Risse
Friedhof der Stacheltiere Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
Das 5. Element Sport 1.2. Troja
Prada Sport 1.3. Gerani
Voda gora Sport 1.3. Gerani
6b+ Sphinx Sport 1.1.2. Sektor Pyramide
Life could be so slow and painful Sport 1.1.3. Sektor Risse
Putzteufel Sport 1.1.3. Sektor Risse
Kopftuchdilemma Sport 1.2. Troja
Rada 2L Sport 1.3. Gerani
5C Fauna Boulder 1.1.4. Sektor Central
Flora Boulder 1.1.4. Sektor Central
6c Zuvdija is cooking today Sport 1.1.1. Sektor Verticali
Challenger Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
Für Lisa Sport 1.2. Troja
Niksicko Pivo Sport 1.3. Gerani
Regen unter Dach Sport 1.3. Gerani
Liliput kaputt Sport 1.4.2. South Face
6A Dobar dan Boulder 1.1.4. Sektor Central
Dobro juto Boulder 1.1.4. Sektor Central
6c+ Izet is driving today Sport 1.1.1. Sektor Verticali
Pharao Sport 1.1.2. Sektor Pyramide
Abgerissen Sport 1.1.3. Sektor Risse
Apollo 13 Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
Blinder Stier Sport 1.3. Gerani
7a Long way to the top Sport 1.1.3. Sektor Risse
Drillirium Sport 1.2. Troja
Pivograd Sport 1.2. Troja
Fuchur Sport 1.3. Gerani
7a+ BARKfest Sport 1.1.2. Sektor Pyramide
Die Mumie Sport 1.1.2. Sektor Pyramide
Lost in Space Sport 1.3. Gerani
6C Grabowski Boulder 1.1.4. Sektor Central
7b Damokles Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
Mars attacks Sport 1.3. Gerani
7b+ Julien G. Sport 1.2. Troja
Onsight Stopper Sport 1.4.2. South Face
7c Jockl Sport 1.1.3. Sektor Risse
Survival of the fittest Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
7c+ Horizontali Sport 1.1.1. Sektor Verticali
Unnamed Sport 1.1.1. Sektor Verticali
Gina Wild Sport 1.2. Troja
8a+ Projekt Sport Project 1.4.2. South Face
? Projekt Sport Project 1.2. Troja