A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © montenegroclimbing ()

Table of contents

1. Gusinje 97 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 19.817450, 42.530553

Description:©

Introduction

Until recently Mt Prokletije has been a bait only for the masters of traditional climbing in big walls of this mountain where there are few easy and short routes. From May 2008 in the foot of these mountains sport climbing has started to live as well, owing to a group of German climbers, who, with the assistance of the German organization for technical support and cooperation-GTZ, have equipped about 100 routes in the Ropojana Valley and Grbaja Valley, southwards from Gusinje. The largest number of routes is located in the sectors near Alipašini izvori, which could be a little bit cleaner, too. Visits made so far say that the best sector is Djerani, Troja Sector is pretty loose, while the two sectors in Grbaja Valley are around 10kms away and we still haven't got more precise data regarding those. Climbing season lasts from April/May to October/November. Pretty large number of sectors with different orientation provides an opportunity for climbing even in the warmest summer days.

How to Get There?

Gusinje is about 200 kms away from Podgorica. You'll need a minimum of 3-hour drive from the capital city, and perhaps even more if you find yourself stuck in some of the frequent summer traffic jams in the Morača Canyon or come across the roadworks. From Kolašin you can choose between two travel routes, one leading further along the main road via Mojkovac, Bijelo Polje, Berane, Andrijevica and Plav to Gusinje. This road is much longer, but also much better than the travel route running from Kolašin towards Mateševo via Bare Kraljske, past Komovi, over Trešnjevik pass to Andrijevica where it joins the above-mentioned route. Road over Mateševo is currently in a shabby condition, therefore we recommend you to take it only if you don't really care too much about your car, although you'll enjoy the view of Mt Komovi and soon forget giant potholes on the road. It takes 5 minutes by car or a 20 minute hike to get from Gusinje to the sector in the surroundings of Alipašini izvori. Two sectors in the Grbaja valley are about 8kms away from Gusinje.

Accommodation

In the Grbaja valley there are two mountain huts. One is the ownership of PD Radnički (Mountaineering Association Radnički) from Belgrade; it is permanently open only during the summer months, but it can be used the rest of the year as well. The other hut is the ownership of the mountaineers from Plav and Gusinje and is generally closed to the public. Apart from the hut, one can rent one of the several little log cabins, which can accommodate one rather big Šarplaninac(Yugoslav Shepherd Dog) or two men not taller than 170cm in lying position. Anyway, our recommendation is - be sure to bring along your tents. Camping is not banned anywhere, but if you really aimed at some meadow near the houses, ask the owners for permission.

1.1. Main Area 61 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 19.824011, 42.547980

1.1.1. Sektor Verticali 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:©

15 – 20 min walk from the vtown of Gusinje.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Radikali {FR} 6b Sport
2 Steinregen {FR} 5c Sport
3 Izet is driving today {FR} 6c+ Sport
4 Zuvdija is cooking today {FR} 6c Sport
5 Horizontali {FR} 7c+ Sport
6 Unnamed {FR} 7c+ Sport
7 Clim-Bing {FR} 6a Sport

1.1.2. Sektor Pyramide 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Die Mumie {FR} 7a+ Sport
2 Pharao {FR} 6c+ Sport
3 Sphinx {FR} 6b+ Sport
4 Amandas Krautergarten {FR} 5a Sport
5 BARKfest {FR} 7a+ Sport
6 Hakenleiter {FR} 6a+ Sport
7 Banane {FR} 6b Sport

1.1.3. Sektor Risse 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Corner Crack {FR} 5c Sport
2 Meister Proper {FR} 5c Sport
3 Abgerissen {FR} 6c+ Sport
4 Life could be so slow and painful {FR} 6b+ Sport
5 Trollspalte {FR} 6a Sport
6 Putzteufel {FR} 6b+ Sport
7 Klein aber fein {FR} 6a+ Sport
8 Hexenrics and Friends {FR} 6b Sport
9 Jockl {FR} 7c Sport
10 Long way to the top {FR} 7a Sport

1.1.4. Sektor Central 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dobro juto {FB} 6A Boulder
2 Dobar dan {FB} 6A Boulder
3 Flora {FB} 5C Boulder
4 Fauna {FB} 5C Boulder
5 Grabowski {FB} 6C Boulder
6 Survival of the fittest {FR} 7c Sport
7 Apollo 13 {FR} 6c+ Sport
8 Kosovonaut {FR} 6a+ Sport
9 Das Maedchen m. d. rauen Haenden {FR} 5b+ Sport
10 Mensur {FR} 6a A1 Sport
11 Damokles {FR} 7b Sport
12 Friedhof der Stacheltiere {FR} 6b Sport
13 Auskneifer {FR} 6a+ Sport
14 Jetzt ist aber Schluss {FR} 4b Sport
15 Spacewalk {FR} 5c Sport
16 Challenger {FR} 6c Sport
17 Nuff {FR} 6a Sport

1.1.5. Sektor BlokNik 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Boulder
1.1.5.1. East Face 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 NoTechNik {FR} 3 Sport
2 BotaNik {FR} 3 Sport
3 PickNik {FR} 3 Sport
4 BlasfeNik {FR} 3 Sport
5 NoPaNik {FR} 4b Sport
1.1.5.2. South Face 5 routes in Sector
Summary:
Sport and Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 BioNik {FR} 4c Sport
2 SputNik {FR} 5c Sport
3 SaNIK {FB} 5A Boulder
4 NIKgold {FB} 5A Boulder
5 ElektroNik {FR} 6a Sport

1.1.6. Sektor Platten 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Electric Avenue {FR} 6a Sport
2 Ali Baba {FR} 5c Sport
3 Pec 1 {FR} 4b Sport
4 Pec 2 {FR} 5a Sport
5 Pec 3 {FR} 5a Sport
6 Schwänchen {FR} 5a Sport
7 Scheherezade {FR} 5c Sport
8 Fairytale of Friction {FR} 6a Sport
9 Lillies Variant {FR} 5a Sport
10 Lillies Lullaby {FR} 5c+ Sport

1.2. Troja 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 19.833388, 42.542542

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Das 5. Element {FR} 6b Sport
2 Pivograd {FR} 7a Sport
3 Für Lisa {FR} 6c Sport
4 Rumundraus {FR} 6a Sport
5 Projekt Sport Project
6 Drillirium {FR} 7a Sport
7 Maga Baba {FR} 5b Sport
8 Julien G. {FR} 7b+ Sport
9 Kopftuchdilemma {FR} 6b+ Sport
10 Gina Wild {FR} 7c+ Sport

1.3. Gerani 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 19.836585, 42.536012

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lost in Space {FR} 7a+ Sport
2 Mars attacks {FR} 7b Sport
3 Niksicko Pivo {FR} 6c Sport
4 Blinder Stier {FR} 6c+ Sport
5 Tric und Trac {FR} 6a Sport
6 Kosmonaut {FR} 6a+ Sport
7 Crna Skorpion {FR} 6a Sport
8 Regen unter Dach {FR} 6c Sport
9 Rada 2L {FR} 6b+ Sport
10 Prada {FR} 6b Sport
11 Hangel {FR} 4 Sport
12 Voda gora {FR} 6b Sport
13 Fuchur {FR} 7a Sport

1.4. Domacin 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 19.786567, 42.516040

Description:©

Domacin is in the Grbaja valley, about 8km far from town, but hitchhiking works well.

1.4.1. East Face 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stara cesta {FR} 2 Sport
2 My Fair Lady {FR} 2 Sport
3 Kinderrutsche {FR} 5 Sport
4 Kinderturnen {FR} 4 Sport
5 Jojo2 {FR} 4 Sport
6 Jojo1 {FR} 3 Sport

1.4.2. South Face 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kinderfasching {FR} 4 Sport
2 Kinderschreck {FR} 5c Sport
3 Jekyll und Hyde {FR} 6a Sport
4 Liliput kaputt {FR} 6c Sport
5 Projekt {FR} 8a+ Sport Project
6 Onsight Stopper {FR} 7b+ Sport
7 Sauschaf {FR} 6a+ Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
2 My Fair Lady Sport 1.4.1. East Face
Stara cesta Sport 1.4.1. East Face
3 BlasfeNik Sport 1.1.5.1. East Face
BotaNik Sport 1.1.5.1. East Face
NoTechNik Sport 1.1.5.1. East Face
PickNik Sport 1.1.5.1. East Face
Jojo1 Sport 1.4.1. East Face
4 Hangel Sport 1.3. Gerani
Jojo2 Sport 1.4.1. East Face
Kinderturnen Sport 1.4.1. East Face
Kinderfasching Sport 1.4.2. South Face
4b Jetzt ist aber Schluss Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
NoPaNik Sport 1.1.5.1. East Face
Pec 1 Sport 1.1.6. Sektor Platten
4c BioNik Sport 1.1.5.2. South Face
5a Amandas Krautergarten Sport 1.1.2. Sektor Pyramide
Lillies Variant Sport 1.1.6. Sektor Platten
Pec 2 Sport 1.1.6. Sektor Platten
Pec 3 Sport 1.1.6. Sektor Platten
Schwänchen Sport 1.1.6. Sektor Platten
5 Kinderrutsche Sport 1.4.1. East Face
5b Maga Baba Sport 1.2. Troja
5b+ Das Maedchen m. d. rauen Haenden Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
5c Steinregen Sport 1.1.1. Sektor Verticali
Corner Crack Sport 1.1.3. Sektor Risse
Meister Proper Sport 1.1.3. Sektor Risse
Spacewalk Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
SputNik Sport 1.1.5.2. South Face
Ali Baba Sport 1.1.6. Sektor Platten
Scheherezade Sport 1.1.6. Sektor Platten
Kinderschreck Sport 1.4.2. South Face
5c+ Lillies Lullaby Sport 1.1.6. Sektor Platten
6a Clim-Bing Sport 1.1.1. Sektor Verticali
Trollspalte Sport 1.1.3. Sektor Risse
Nuff Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
ElektroNik Sport 1.1.5.2. South Face
Electric Avenue Sport 1.1.6. Sektor Platten
Fairytale of Friction Sport 1.1.6. Sektor Platten
Rumundraus Sport 1.2. Troja
Crna Skorpion Sport 1.3. Gerani
Tric und Trac Sport 1.3. Gerani
Jekyll und Hyde Sport 1.4.2. South Face
6a A1 Mensur Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
5A NIKgold Boulder 1.1.5.2. South Face
SaNIK Boulder 1.1.5.2. South Face
6a+ Hakenleiter Sport 1.1.2. Sektor Pyramide
Klein aber fein Sport 1.1.3. Sektor Risse
Auskneifer Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
Kosovonaut Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
Kosmonaut Sport 1.3. Gerani
Sauschaf Sport 1.4.2. South Face
6b Radikali Sport 1.1.1. Sektor Verticali
Banane Sport 1.1.2. Sektor Pyramide
Hexenrics and Friends Sport 1.1.3. Sektor Risse
Friedhof der Stacheltiere Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
Das 5. Element Sport 1.2. Troja
Prada Sport 1.3. Gerani
Voda gora Sport 1.3. Gerani
6b+ Sphinx Sport 1.1.2. Sektor Pyramide
Life could be so slow and painful Sport 1.1.3. Sektor Risse
Putzteufel Sport 1.1.3. Sektor Risse
Kopftuchdilemma Sport 1.2. Troja
Rada 2L Sport 1.3. Gerani
5C Fauna Boulder 1.1.4. Sektor Central
Flora Boulder 1.1.4. Sektor Central
6c Zuvdija is cooking today Sport 1.1.1. Sektor Verticali
Challenger Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
Für Lisa Sport 1.2. Troja
Niksicko Pivo Sport 1.3. Gerani
Regen unter Dach Sport 1.3. Gerani
Liliput kaputt Sport 1.4.2. South Face
6A Dobar dan Boulder 1.1.4. Sektor Central
Dobro juto Boulder 1.1.4. Sektor Central
6c+ Izet is driving today Sport 1.1.1. Sektor Verticali
Pharao Sport 1.1.2. Sektor Pyramide
Abgerissen Sport 1.1.3. Sektor Risse
Apollo 13 Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
Blinder Stier Sport 1.3. Gerani
7a Long way to the top Sport 1.1.3. Sektor Risse
Drillirium Sport 1.2. Troja
Pivograd Sport 1.2. Troja
Fuchur Sport 1.3. Gerani
7a+ BARKfest Sport 1.1.2. Sektor Pyramide
Die Mumie Sport 1.1.2. Sektor Pyramide
Lost in Space Sport 1.3. Gerani
6C Grabowski Boulder 1.1.4. Sektor Central
7b Damokles Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
Mars attacks Sport 1.3. Gerani
7b+ Julien G. Sport 1.2. Troja
Onsight Stopper Sport 1.4.2. South Face
7c Jockl Sport 1.1.3. Sektor Risse
Survival of the fittest Sport 1.1.4. Sektor Central
7c+ Horizontali Sport 1.1.1. Sektor Verticali
Unnamed Sport 1.1.1. Sektor Verticali
Gina Wild Sport 1.2. Troja
8a+ Projekt Sport Project 1.4.2. South Face
? Projekt Sport Project 1.2. Troja