Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Europe 178,179 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 1.891945, 53.360735

1.1. Albania 0 routes in Region

1.1.1. Tirana 0 routes in Crag

1.1.2. Bovilla 0 routes in Crag

1.2. Austria 7,715 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 14.136235, 47.587018

Description:

other route databases on the web: http://www.bergsteigen.com/

If you are not sure or in case of doubt use AVE system to manage areas and crags:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpine_Club_classification_of_the_Eastern_Alps

map of areas: http://www.bergalbum.de/uebersichtskarte_ostalpen.htm

1.2.1. Vienna and Lower Austria 2,244 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 15.777603, 48.267426

Description:

A lot of climbing is happening in and around Vienna. Within a 2 hours radius you will find mostly limestone crags (some gneiss also can be found in the danube region of Wachau) offering everything from slabs to overhangs, short to long climbs, remote to busy crags, single to multi pitch and so on...

Main crags are Peilstein, Hohe Wand, Höllental and many many more...

Information Sources / Topo Guides:

If the weather is bad Vienna offers a lot of indoor climbing possibilities (just google for climbing gym vienna...) - currently around 10 major climbing gyms exist in and around the city.

1.2.2. Mühlviertel 584 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 14.402508, 48.437437

1.2.3. Tirol 2,867 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 11.298081, 47.259670

Description:

1.2.4. Salzkammergut 288 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 13.472919, 47.735181

Description:

AVE mountain range by alpine clubs (http://www.bergalbum.de/uebersichtskarte_ostalpen.htm)

1.2.5. Vorarlberg 855 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 9.903459, 47.241136

1.2.6. Oberösterreiche Voralpen 362 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 14.208506, 48.001197

1.2.7. Totes Gebirge 66 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 14.041800, 47.665745

1.2.8. Dachstein 93 routes in Region

Summary:
Alpine, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 13.614495, 47.490756

Description:

Karst landscape with sometimes sharp limestone. Well-know wall is the "Dachstein Südwand" with multipitch up to 27 pitches and over 1000m to climb old list of routes: http://schall-verlag.at/attachments/123_Inhalt%20Kletterarena%20Dachstein.pdf

Approach:

North side from Obertraun with cable way. South side from Ramsau.

1.2.9. Steiermark 107 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 15.167823, 47.263847

1.2.10. Kärnten 47 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 13.917502, 46.768376

1.2.11. Salzburg 202 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 13.094951, 47.397152

Description:

Salzburgland

1.3. Belarus 0 routes in Region

1.3.1. Minsk 0 routes in Crag

1.4. Belgium 296 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 4.630157, 50.658294

Description:

good area and route database at http://www.belclimb.net

1.4.1. Freyr 128 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 4.893215, 50.222387

1.4.2. Les Awirs 0 routes in Crag

1.4.3. dave 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 4.873729, 50.426572

1.4.4. Hotton 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 5.456486, 50.266597

Unique Features And Strengths:

Sport climbing, easy access, nearby parking

1.4.5. durnal 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

Easy climbing area ideal with kids!

Access Issues:

walking, car

Where To Stay:

camping de Bocq, Purnode

1.4.6. Beez 116 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 4.938847, 50.479852

Access Issues:

Do NOT cross the railroad as this could lead the authorities to get the site closed. Getting to the bridge where the access path starts is only a 30 seconds walk. The site is managed by the CAB (Club Alpin Belge) and access is limited (check their website).

Approach:

Arriving from Namur/Beez, park in front of the railroad, then walk to the bridge. Access path is on the left right after the bridge.

Ethic:

Do not walk on the railroad or cross it.

1.4.7. sy 0 routes in Crag

1.4.8. ozo 0 routes in Crag

1.4.9. Rochers du Castel/Pont a Lesse 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 4.914493, 50.227124

Description:

You'll find a number of beautiful rocks where you can go for a relaxing climbing day. Not terribly difficult routes, but a hundred accessible to very accessible routes .

1.4.10. Rochers du Paradou 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 4.871042, 50.338208

1.4.11. Mozet 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

1.4.12. Rochers du Calvaire 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 5.522014, 50.381043

1.5. Bosnia Herzegovina 0 routes in Region

1.5.1. Sarajevo 0 routes in Crag

1.6. Bulgaria 203 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 25.256750, 42.758972

Description:

Bulgaria is a country in South East Europe, with an area of 111,000 sq km, which offers climbing areas of all types: - bouldering, - sport climbing - traditional (up to 200 meter routes) - ice climbing (only in winter) - DWS.

1.6.1. Sofia 0 routes in Crag

Description:

The capital and largest city of Bulgaria. At least five indoor climbing spots within the city as well as rock climbing/ boulder spots at the outskirts of the city towards Vitosha Mountain.

Where To Stay:

Plenty of hotels, hostels, as well as coach-surfing opportunities.

1.6.2. Vratsa 118 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 23.539164, 43.191375

Description:

Huge bolted multi-pitches and single pitch sport climbing in caves and on slabs.

Access Issues:
Where To Stay:

Camp at the grassy areas on the right and left as you drive up through the gorge. Water is available at a spring on the left camp area.

1.6.3. Karlukovo - Prohodna Cave 82 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 24.073765, 43.175845

Unique Features And Strengths:

Huge tunnel cave with tufas and pockets and two huge holes in the roof which look like eyes

Description:

In rural Bulgaria is this massive cave one could fly a helicopter through. Has 'The eyes of god' feature in the roof and also great climbing but mostly moderate to hard routes.

Access Issues:

Put Karlukovo in your GPS navigation system and drive. If you have the Bulgarian Climbing Guidebook then there is a description of how to get there in that.

Approach:
Where To Stay:

Camping at the entrance to the cave on the rolling green hills. There are a couple of shepards who move their animals through the area. They are nice and it is normal to offer them a gift or some Rakija (alcoholic spirits) and they will often give you some of their homemade cheese or milk.

1.6.4. hija alpinist 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 25.951842, 43.763322

1.6.5. Kamen bryag 0 routes in Crag

Description:

Deep Water Solo spot at the Black Sea, North East side of Bulgaria. Climbing season is usually from June to September, depending on temperatures. Typical water temperatures in summer are 25 °C in August. Warning! There have been several fatal accidents in the region, due to the nature of DWS as well as the characteristic of many problems.

Access Issues:

Intercity buses or by car. Approximate travel time from major cities by car: Sofia - 7 hours, Veliko Tarnovo - 4 hours, Varna - 1 hour.

Where To Stay:

Small hotels, camping sites. Many spend the night in the open, tenting freely in the many open spaces (not permitted, but still vastly common).

1.6.6. Veliko Tarnovo 0 routes in Crag

1.7. Croatia 1,539 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 16.339714, 45.400249

1.7.1. Zagreb 29 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 16.045499, 45.821730

1.7.2. Istrien 451 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 13.872995, 45.164259

1.7.3. Dalmatia 939 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 16.279516, 43.409716

1.7.4. Kvarner 113 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 14.518653, 44.778556

1.7.5. Plitvice - Gajina pecina 7 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 15.637257, 44.862024

1.8. Czech Republic 2,606 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 15.329265, 49.738153

Description:

Route database and current moisture conditions (in Czech): http://www.skalnioblasti.cz/5_index.asp

Information resource on climbing in Czech republic (in English): http://www.czechclimbing.com/

1.8.1. Praha 0 routes in Region

1.8.2. Střední Čechy 48 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 14.528294, 49.961670

Description:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Central_Bohemian_Region

1.8.3. Severní Čechy 456 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 14.888040, 50.693670

1.8.4. Severozápadní Čechy 128 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 13.343758, 50.347615

1.8.5. Západní Čechy 0 routes in Region

1.8.6. Jižní Čechy 26 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 14.430532, 49.092591

1.8.7. Českomoravská vrchovina 36 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 15.677719, 49.487261

Description:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bohemian-Moravian_Highlands

1.8.8. Východní Čechy 147 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 15.981063, 50.184418

1.8.9. Jižní Morava 1,307 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 16.479691, 49.123519

Description:

1.8.10. Moravské pískovce 98 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Boulder and Trad

Long/Lat: 17.607391, 49.136684

Description:

1.8.11. Severní Morava 360 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 17.559427, 49.813887

Description:

1.9. Denmark 75 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 10.708741, 56.084728

1.9.1. Copenhagen 0 routes in Region

1.9.2. Bornholm 60 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 14.986565, 55.164743

1.9.3. Greenland 15 routes in Region

Summary:
Unknown, Alpine and other styles

Long/Lat: -41.574763, 74.616521

1.10. Estonia 0 routes in Region

1.10.1. Tallinn 0 routes in Crag

1.11. Finland 214 routes in Region

Summary:
Boulder, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 25.540642, 64.092931

1.11.1. Åland 156 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 20.105735, 60.226394

1.11.2. Jyväskylä 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.11.3. Turku 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

1.11.4. Helsinki 0 routes in Crag

1.11.5. Lappi (Lapland) 0 routes in Crag

1.11.6. Tampere 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.11.7. Olhava 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.11.8. Salo 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.11.9. Askola 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.12. France 14,650 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 1.941731, 46.411950

1.12.1. Paris 0 routes in Region

1.12.2. Fontainebleau 2,978 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 2.642555, 48.376106

Description:

The holy grail of bouldering. Every serious boulderer should visit Fontainbleau at least once in his life. You'll find a beautiful landscape, perfect rock and the need for a wide variety of climbing skills!

Where To Stay:

Campsite La Musardière gites (timber huts)

History:

1908 the Paris Alpin club marked the first parcours to practice techniques for the higher montains. Since then, Fontainbleau has always been on the forefront of the development of bouldering. Examples are 'L'angle Allain' 5+ (1935, Pierre Allain), 'La Marie Rose' 6A (1946, René Ferlet), 'La Joker' originally 6C, nowadays a hard 7A (1952, Robert Paragot), 'L‘Abbatoir' 7A (1960, Michel Libert), 'Carnage' 7B (1983, Jérôme Jean-Charles, 1983), 'La Bérézina' 7C (1977, Pierre Richard), 'C‘était demain' 8A (1984, Jacky Godoffe), 'Fat Man' 8B (1984, Jacky Godoffe).

1.12.3. Alsace & Lorraine 849 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 6.645157, 48.516850

1.12.4. Franche-Comté [Jura] 92 routes in Region

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 5.826046, 46.538318

1.12.5. Bourgogne / Burgundy 90 routes in Region

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 4.386477, 46.947273

1.12.6. Grenoble - Die Area 47 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 5.804176, 45.070039

1.12.7. Alps 807 routes in Region

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 6.245357, 45.789685

1.12.8. Northwest / Nord-Ouest 20 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -2.658410, 48.602204

1.12.9. Claremont Ferrand Area 22 routes in Region

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 2.786880, 45.532790

1.12.10. Auvergne 28 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 4.324566, 45.562607

1.12.11. Ardeche 745 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 4.414642, 44.668312

1.12.12. Southwest / Sud-Ouest 32 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -0.613906, 45.864491

1.12.13. Pyrenees 171 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 0.734910, 43.161825

1.12.14. Southeast / Sud-Est 1,420 routes in Region

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 2.612744, 44.036036

1.12.15. Provence - Cote d'Azur 6,493 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 6.074021, 43.963129

1.12.16. Corsica 856 routes in Region

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 9.029270, 42.199305

1.13. Germany 57,414 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 10.349458, 51.308406

Description:

Crag information system (in German) at: http://felsinfo.alpenverein.de

route database (in German) at: http://routen.climbing.de/uebersicht.php3?Land_Top=Deutschland

1.13.1. Norddeutschland 7 routes in Region

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 9.762062, 53.718448

1.13.2. Mitteldeutschland 479 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 12.205620, 51.530171

Description:

Not blessed with too much natural rock formations, Germany's Central East still offers some hidden gems like stunning aretes in shutdown quarries or deep-water-soloing over crystal-clear water. Check out the guidebook (in German) "Rotgelbes Felsenland" by Gerald Krug (www.geoquest-verlag.de)

1.13.3. Berlin + Brandenburg 210 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 13.412209, 52.447263

Description:

Despite the complete absence of natural rock formations, Berlin still offers some remedies for the vertically-addicted: artificial climbing walls, gyms, chiselled bunkers and semi-legal buildering. With more than 100 places to climb, you should be able to get pumped. A nice overview of all locations can be found at http://www.klettern-in-berlin.de (in German).

1.13.4. Oberlausitz 2,098 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 14.557383, 51.246998

Description:

small crags or cliffs of Eastern Saxony

1.13.5. Sächsische Schweiz 18,337 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 14.124930, 50.898965

Unique Features And Strengths:

THE birthplace of free climbing: A lifetime of climbing with stout ethics among stunning sandstone towers - not for the faint hearted.

http://de.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elbsandsteingebirge

Description:

The Elbe Sandstone Mountains with their German part (Sächsische Schweiz = Saxon Switzerland) and the Czech counterpart (České Švýcarsko - Czech Switzerland) have long been a epicenter of climbing development (see History).

Today, luckily the masses avoid the area mainly because of its grim reputation and stout ethics (see ethics), which require solid climbing skills, some modesty or someone giving advise on the route - even better, all of these. However, with roughly 1100 free standing rock formations and about 20000 routes to climb, this area is a must for the adventurous climber.

Late spring till early autumn is the best time for climbing, although the enthusiast may also enjoy south faces on sunny winter days. These will be too hot in summer, but shady faces can always be found.

The standard guidebook is the 6-volume "Kletterführer Sächsische Schweiz" by Heinicke (2002 - out of print). Route descriptions in compacted German only. The alternative "Kompakt-Kletterführer Sächsische Schweiz" uses a cryptic sign language which is non-language specific. The "Topoführer Sächsische Schweiz" has only limited coverage, but lots of topos.

If you don't have a local friend that can tell you if that VIIa is really VIIa or actually feels like VIIIb with ground fall potential, check http://www.teufelsturm.de with a huge route database and invaluable comments on many routes (in German, but with straightforward icons).

Further informations: http://www.nationalpark-saechsische-schweiz.de/besucherinformation/klettern/ (only in german)

Access Issues:

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Approach:

The area is best reached from Dresden by commuter trains running every half an hour from Dresden (30 - 45 min). Depending on your destination, you can then continue by foot or use buses for the more remote areas, for which a car might be more convenient when you plan to return in the late hours. The more frequented areas are better avoided by car at the weekends, as lots of hikers can occupy the little parking the is. There a not many real roadside crags - be prepared to walk from 15 min (e.g. Falkenstein) up to 2 h (Hinterer Zschand).

Where To Stay:

Being a popular tourist destination, many villages boast boarding houses and smaller hotels. The Sächsische Bergsteigerbund, a subdivision of the German Alpine Club, maintains two huts (Ottomühle and Saupsdorf) which generally require reservation (discounts on membership). Camping may be permitted at the alpine huts (charged) or on the camping ground in the Kirnitzschtal (NW of Bad Schandau). Traditionally, climbers used to bivouac at the walls under overhangs (Boofe ['boa-feh]). This is still tolerated in designated places (Freiübernachtungsstelle). Tread extremely lightly, as anything else endangers this compromise: no fires, no littering, dig a hole.

Ethic:

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
History:

The Elbe Sandstone Mountains are probably the birthplace of modern freeclimbing and certainly one of the most historic climbing areas you can find. Not counting the Bronze-age settlement on Pfaffenstein nor the occassional remains of castles of robber-knight on some summits, climbing here dates back to the mid 19th century.

In 1864, gymnasts from Bad Schandau ascended the Falkenstein. While their style (using ladders, thrown ropes and pick-axes) saw a few imitators, it soon became clear that what we today call "free-climbing" is the way to go. Oskar Schuster and Rudolf Fehrmann were among the driving forces to formulate the Saxonian climbing rules, as they still stand today (see ethics): no climbing onto anything "a cow could ascend" (ie only true summits), no progress on artificial holds, placing bolts only as the last resort. This visionary abstinence, born from a mixture of elitarism, boldness and an eye for conservation issues alike, helped to form a climbing standard that was unrivalled in the world for decades until the 1970ies. Milestones like Spannagelturm Perrykante (VIIb) by Oliver Perry-Smith (1906), Wilder Kopf Westkante (VIIIa) by Emanuel Strubich (1918), Frienstein Königshangel IXa by Fritz Eske (1965) and Amselspitze Schallmauer Xa (Bernd Arnold) are still testpieces for modern climbers - especially when you would climb with the equipment of the respective era.

Saxonian climbers like Fehrmann and Strubich also left their footprints in Alps. In the 1930ies, Fritz Wiessner brought Saxonian ethics to the USA, where it evolved to modern freeclimbing and finally spread over the world.

The two World Wars took their toll among climbers - but also the crags - a great part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains became part of Chechoslovakia, which made climbing trips for climbers crossing the border a little more complicated. During the Socialist era, free traveling to western countries was banned. Arguably, this may also have contributed to the rise of climbing difficulties: climbers like Karl-Heinz Gonda, Bernd Arnold, Mathias Gäbler and Manfred Vogel established benchmarks of their time. However, in the recent decades the strict gound-up ethic made the creation of climbs at the top end of the scale increasingly difficult if not impossible. Already, some first ascenders have been suspected to bend the rules; and debated routes have even been removed. Every few years, the controversy between traditionalist (defending the status quo) and reformers (wishing to allow climbing on currently forbidden walls and rappel-bolting) boils up again. So far, the tradition stood its ground, supported by the National Park administration, who also favours restrictive climbing rules.

Whatever the future may bring, with roughly 20000 routes there is a lifetime of climbing - and despite being considered "outclimbed" for first ascents long ago, some enthusiast still add some hundred routes each year.

1.13.6. Sächsisches Hügelland 430 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 13.438170, 51.129543

1.13.7. Erzgebirge 1,192 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 13.122322, 50.672453

Description:

1.13.8. Vogtland 700 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 12.042265, 50.590536

Description:

Die Kletterregion Vogtland umfaßt hier im wesentlichen den Bereich der vogtländischen Mulde und damit die nördlichen Teile des thüringischen und sächsischen Vogtlands. Das bayerische und böhmische Vogtland sowie die zum Elstergebirge gehörigen Anteile des sächsischen Vogtlandes bleiben außer Acht. Letzteres wird hier entsprechend der Gebirgszugehörigkeit separat geführt (http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/germany/area/648011757).

http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vogtland

1.13.9. Thüringisch-Fränkisches Schiefergebirge 75 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 11.389403, 50.439031

Description:

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Naturraumkarte_Thueringisch-Fraenkisch-Vogtlaendisches_Schiefergebirge.png

Thüringisches Schiefergebirge = several ranges of mountains which correctly do not belong to Thüringer Wald, however often are aggregated together with it under this name

Fränkisches Schiefergebirge = Frankenwald

(Vogtländisches Schiefergebirge = ostthüring. Schiefergebirge: geografically seen as completly different region, however similar rocks. Part of Vogtland)

1.13.10. Fichtelgebirge 236 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 12.075746, 50.095449

Description:

Das Fichtelgebirge endet aus deutscher Sicht an der Grenze zu Tschechien. Der tschechische Begriff Smrčiny ist etwas umfassender und schließt das nordöstlich angrenzende Elstergebirge ein.

Access Issues:

"Dreizonenkonzept" (see access issues of crags) (ohne Elstergebirge)

Zone 1: Ruhezonen, Klettern mit Seil nicht erlaubt, Boulder ist erlaubt, wenn nicht anders vermerkt

Zone 2: Vorrangzonen Naturschutz, Klettern auf bisherigen Wegen bis zum Umlenkhaken erlaubt, keine Neutouren

Zone 3: Vorrangzonen Klettern, Klettern und Neutouren nach Rücksprache erlaubt.

1.13.11. Oberpfälzer Wald 27 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 12.384483, 49.584754

1.13.12. Frankenjura 10,404 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 11.418159, 49.284692

Description:

http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fränkische_Alb

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Franconian_Jura

1.13.13. Bayerischer Wald 231 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 12.988475, 48.948088

Description:

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayerischer_Wald

Access Issues:
Approach:

1.13.14. Oberbayern 2,715 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 11.788976, 48.045041

1.13.15. Allgäu 296 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Alpine and other styles

Long/Lat: 10.294632, 47.726254

1.13.16. Hegau 113 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 8.955270, 47.871525

1.13.17. Linzgau 87 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 9.394568, 47.820166

Description:

Linzgau is a region in southern Germany in the state of Baden-Württemberg north of Lake Constance and south of the Danube valley. It is bounded by Lake Constance on the south, the Hegau on the west, the Danube valley on the north, and the Schussen River on the east. It reaches west as far as Überlingen and north as far as Pfullendorf.

1.13.18. Schwäbische Alb 3,339 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 9.588043, 48.445332

1.13.19. Neckarland 196 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 9.150242, 48.830271

1.13.20. Schwarzwald 1,545 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 8.231147, 48.220532

1.13.21. Pfälzerwald 2,193 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 7.823448, 49.277572

1.13.22. Hundsrück 256 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 7.223209, 49.873525

1.13.23. Eifel 2,067 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 6.708886, 50.319865

1.13.24. Niederrheinische Bucht 709 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 6.570628, 51.304827

1.13.25. Süderbergland 231 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 7.840747, 51.158860

Description:

http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Süderbergland

1.13.26. Westerwald 23 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 7.943492, 50.631788

1.13.27. Taunus 211 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 8.198435, 50.264148

Description:

http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taunus

1.13.28. Odenwald 608 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 9.004504, 49.614428

Description:

http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Odenwald

1.13.29. Spessart 62 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 9.350670, 50.032436

Description:

http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spessart

1.13.30. Vogelsberg 0 routes in Region

1.13.31. Rhön 92 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 10.034062, 50.481916

1.13.32. Teutoburger Wald + Eggegebirge 285 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 8.578598, 51.940369

1.13.33. Weser-Leine-Bergland 3,436 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 9.388621, 52.037850

Description:

1.13.34. Göttinger-Northeimer Wald 288 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 10.039507, 51.539521

1.13.35. Harz + Harzvorland 3,144 routes in Region

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 10.791651, 51.712590

1.13.36. Thüringer Becken 0 routes in Region

1.13.37. Thüringer Wald 1,019 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 10.652520, 50.750094

Description:

1.13.38. Nordhessen 73 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 9.558304, 51.136122

1.14. Greece 4,100 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 23.844275, 37.521009

1.14.1. Kalymnos 2,512 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 26.951716, 36.977202

Unique Features And Strengths:

All grades to 8c+ available, but notably extremely high quality routes from 6b+ to 8a+ (and lots of them) in an idyllic Greek island setting.

Description:

The world's current most popular sport climbing holiday destination.

Picking when to go depends on many factors. The winter months (December - March) enjoy very mild temperatures (average maximum of 14-16C) but this is the wet season and it will usually rain on 9-13 days per month. Locals rave about climbing on nice winter days though, if your schedule allows for sitting out a few winter storms, and the fact that all the shops will be shut. Later in the wet season, seepage can be heavy and this prevents climbing on most flowstone routes (which many people consider to be the best routes), and this is a significant factor during the months of January-March, and also April if rainfall was above average. If you want to swim, the water is too cold (<19C) during the months of November to April. By May the seepage should be mostly gone, and swimming should be ok, but the average maximum temperature is up to 24C and the sun is nearly at its hottest which can enforce shade chasing, and the crowds are sizable (albeit half those in October). Then summer hits, and the average maximum temperature is over 28C during the months of June - September, which for most people rules out a dedicated climbing holiday, but is reportedly a great time if you are happy to climb early, and to mix in some swimming and sailing which are at their best. September - November has good air temps, mostly good water temps, and no seepage, but this is offset by having by far the biggest crowds and queues at the crags.

Approach:

You will walk to 60% of the crags and hire a scooter for the other 40%. Note new laws have been introduced in 2015 requiring that you must have a motorbike license in your home country if you wish to validly hire a scooter in Kalymnos. Some operators are already enforcing this (they have insurance problems if they don't). Others will still hire scooters on the basis of a driver's license, but probably not for long. If you do hire a scooter, take it easy: tonnes of people come off.

Where To Stay:

Any of the countless studios in Massouri.

Ethic:

Full bolted sport climbing with a documented bolting standard.

History:

Developed very recently, compared to most European climbing destinations; mostly within a span of 10 years.

1.14.2. Meteora 66 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 21.628718, 39.718542

Unique Features And Strengths:

Pulling pebbles on tall conglomerate towers crowned by monasteries

Description:

If you have seen the James Bond movie "For Your Eyes Only" you may remember the stunning scenery in which 007 goes rockclimbing: Tall conglomerate towers with many abandoned or inhabited monasteries on top. Even tiny ledges and caves often hold relics of some eremitages. The climbing is mostly adventurous; expect longer runouts, widely-spaced ringbolts that are sometimes easy to overlook and sometimes loose round pebbles that make gear placements challenging.

detailed route database (in German): http://www.db-sandsteinklettern.gipfelbuch.de/gebiet.php?gebietid=16

Access Issues:

Generally, rock formations with inhabited monasteries should not be climbed. Preserve all other historical remains.

Where To Stay:

Two campsites in the villages of Kastraki and Kalambaka.

Ethic:

Traditionally, Meteora was in great parts explored by climbers with background from Sächsische Schweiz, translating to ringbolts, leadbolting and runouts. However, there is also some mainstream sport climbing to be found.

1.14.3. Argolis 145 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 22.884690, 37.581796

1.14.4. Leonidio 80 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 22.871731, 37.167493

Unique Features And Strengths:

Evolving limestone crag at the eastern coast of Peloponnes

Description:

1.14.5. Athens 737 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 23.762849, 38.011447

1.14.6. Crete 196 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 24.896817, 35.062677

1.14.7. Alepochori 0 routes in Crag

1.14.8. Skollis 27 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.14.9. Kalogria 0 routes in Crag

1.14.10. Kleisoura 0 routes in Crag

1.14.11. Rhodes 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Alpine

Long/Lat: 27.949975, 36.177643

1.14.12. Sidirokastro 0 routes in Crag

1.14.13. Varasova 40 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 21.599119, 38.346311

1.14.14. Lagada 95 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 22.309958, 37.081503

Access Issues:

Close to the main road that travels from Kalamata to Sparta. 14 km from Sparta.

1.14.15. Kymi 44 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 24.094155, 38.471479

Description:

More info: www.climbinkymi.gr

1.14.16. Kythera 24 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 22.985427, 36.246030

1.14.17. Tinos 88 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 25.129811, 37.603143

Description:

Tinos is a Greek island situated in the Aegean Sea. It is located in the Cyclades archipelago. The closest islands are Andros, Delos, and Mykonos. Tinos is famous amongst Greeks for the Church of Panagia Evangelistria and its 80 or so windmills. There is a lot of potential for outdoor activities as hiking, climbing and bouldering. The rock texture of the island rock is granite something unusual for Greek rock.

Approach:

As Tinos has no airport the only way to get to the island is by ship. Tinos has three ports, one for passenger speed boats, and two for ferries and highspeed boats which carry passengers and cars to other ports, including Mykonos (35 min), Piraeus, Rafina, Andros and Syros.

1.14.18. Parnassos 15 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 22.506353, 38.626368

1.14.19. Gkiona - Pyramida 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Alpine

Long/Lat: 22.256416, 38.649273

Unique Features And Strengths:

Limestone of best quality on a greek mountain

1.15. Hungary 158 routes in Region

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 19.372043, 47.118337

Description:

Check http://ludens.elte.hu/climb/climb.html for helpful information.

1.15.1. Kisgerecse 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 18.493695, 47.689729

1.15.2. Budapest 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 19.034760, 47.590661

1.15.3. Oszoly 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 18.973345, 47.646802

1.15.4. Tardos 65 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 18.467359, 47.665389

1.15.5. Csókakő 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 18.276998, 47.360732

1.15.6. Sólyom-ko 36 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 21.319171, 48.436768

Unique Features And Strengths:

Nice Andesite rock formation with easy and moderate routes mostly

Description:

Andesite rock formation hidden in the forest above the village Hejce, north Hungary, near the border with Slovakia

Access Issues:

From the village hejce continue along the forest road. parking after cca. 2 kilometres aside the road, before the iron bar gate

Approach:

Approx 30 minutes from the carpark. After 15-20 minutes of walk along tha forest road you come to small meadow with the hut. 100 metres before the hut turn left into smaller touristic path. Follow it another 10-15 minutes.

1.15.7. Mátrakeresztes 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.16. Iceland 78 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: -17.422831, 65.085661

Description:

1.16.1. Reykjavik 34 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: -21.493712, 64.294235

1.16.2. Akureyri 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -19.110699, 65.804085

1.16.3. Vestfirðir 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: -22.796533, 65.915547

1.16.4. East area 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: -15.409380, 65.002050

1.17. Ireland 1,112 routes in Region

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: -8.632715, 53.122669

1.17.1. Dalkey Quarry 221 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: -6.106943, 53.270666

1.17.2. Glendalough 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: -6.396546, 53.006432

1.17.3. Ballykeefe Quarry 95 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -7.403106, 52.613179

1.17.4. Beaumont Quarry, Cork 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.17.5. Old Head of Kinsale 50 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.17.6. Gap of Dunloe 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Unknown

1.17.7. Lough Gur, Limerick 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.17.8. Knockroe Crag, Limerick 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.17.9. Ardmore, Waterford 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: -8.777060, 53.588683

1.17.10. Gola Isalnd 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

1.17.11. The Burren 35 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.17.12. Donegal 366 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: -7.993267, 54.988642

1.17.13. Knockhourough Crag, Limerick 0 routes in Crag

1.17.14. Mourne Mountains 181 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -6.033680, 54.149496

1.17.15. The Playbank, Co. Cavan 52 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.17.16. Fair Head 40 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.18. Italy 19,769 routes in Region

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 12.246097, 41.574421

1.18.1. Northern Italy 15,136 routes in Region

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 10.275031, 45.355701

1.18.2. Central and Southern Italy 4,633 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 12.879884, 40.358042

1.19. Kosova 0 routes in Region

1.19.1. Peja 0 routes in Crag

1.20. Latvia 0 routes in Region

1.20.1. Riga 0 routes in Crag

1.21. Liechtenstein 1 route in Region

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 9.557561, 47.139210

1.21.1. Vaduz 0 routes in Crag

1.21.2. Drei Schwestern 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 9.572395, 47.175867

Unique Features And Strengths:

Impressive views to the Rhine valley, Alpstein, Walgau, Rätikon and Lake of Constance.

Description:

The Three Sisters are three peaks of a mountain chain in Rätikon, a mountain range of the western central alps. The main peak, the size of the sisters, has a height of 2053 m above sea level, the middle sister located north-east of it reaches a height of 2,048 meters and the north-eastern little sister is 2,034 meters high.

The three peaks mark the border between the Austrian state of Vorarlberg and Liechtenstein. West to the Rhine Valley and north to the Walgau the three sisters are very geographical dominant because of their advamced northwestern location and their steep rugged rock. Through a well-developed trail system they are easily accessible and are often ascended.

Approach:

Walk from Planken (FL) in 3 hours via Gafadura hut.

History:

The first ascent was made probably by hunter, the main peak was beaten by a tourist on 10 June 1870, the Scottish mountaineer John Sholto Douglass, which was accompanied by the hunter Wieser from Feldkirch.

1.22. Lithuania 0 routes in Region

1.22.1. Vilnius 0 routes in Crag

1.23. Luxembourg 154 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 6.098995, 49.779547

1.23.1. Berdorf 154 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 6.343590, 49.831081

Unique Features And Strengths:

The crags are climable all year round. Excellent sandstone.

Access Issues:

Permit is required! One can be requested free of charge from the Lu ministry of Environment. Dont go without it as you might get into trouble if the rangers decide to come check! I have been checked.

Approach:

15 min walk in the forest and then descent down the stairs to the left.

Where To Stay:

Campings in Berdorf or 'Auberge de jeunesse' in Beaufort and Echternach.

Ethic:

Other areas not discribed are closed down.

1.24. Macedonia 0 routes in Region

1.24.1. Skopje 0 routes in Crag

1.24.2. Demir Kapija 0 routes in Crag

1.25. Malta 160 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 14.421488, 35.928907

1.25.1. Victoria Lines 93 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 14.450154, 35.929132

Unique Features And Strengths:

Fortifications stretching 12km, built by the British Army between 1870 and 1899

Description:

Victoria lines is set along the the Great Fault which divides Malta from Madliena in the north to Fomm ir-Rih bay in the west.

Scattered along the Great Fault is a number of fortifications built by the British army between 1870 and 1899, among the fortifications are batteries and and infantry line connected together to form a single line of defense.

Access and parking is great at this crag with most walk-ins less than 15min. The two main locations to climb are in the north and west of the Great Fault.

The climbing style is trad on solid white limestone and mostly short routes between 15m and 30m.

Areas located within the valley can be climbed throughout the day by switching from one wall to the other as the sun moves around. Areas outside the vallies face north and best climbed in the morning to avoid the afternoon sun.

Approach:

Along the entire Great Fault there is plenty of parking and most sectors are located within an easy 15min walk.

Ethic:

As with most of Malta bolting is discouraged, a few exceptions are allowed

  1. As rap points, and

  2. where ground strikes are likely

but otherwise there are enough points to place gear

1.25.2. Valletta 0 routes in Crag

1.25.3. Pillar Box Cave 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 14.461048, 35.820967

1.25.4. Wied Babu 61 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 14.459314, 35.823192

Description:

Climbing in Wied Babu in Malta is quite an eri experience, it is in an dried out cannon. It is easy to imagine the whole cannon being full of water and may even be come full while you are climbing, but that is not the case.

It is also interesting because of the old man and his gun, shooting at the birds all day long. We never saw him hit anything but every 15min you will hear the gun. As the story goes he has taken shots at climbers, although we never got shoot at.

Ethic:

There a a bird shooter here so dont spend too much time setting up your rap station. While no one has been killed, it is rumored that he may take a shot at you. We have been assured by our guide that being shoot at only hurts a little

1.25.5. Ix-Xaqqa Gully 0 routes in Crag

1.25.6. Ghar Lapsi 0 routes in Crag

1.25.7. Sunset Boulevard - Victoria Lines 0 routes in Crag

1.25.8. Il-Bejta tal-Fenek 0 routes in Crag

1.25.9. Cikka 0 routes in Crag

1.25.10. Crazy Horse Cave 0 routes in Crag

1.25.11. Crucifix Cave 0 routes in Crag

1.25.12. Mgarr Xini Canyon, Gozo 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 14.265053, 36.022856

1.26. Moldova 0 routes in Region

1.26.1. Chisinau 0 routes in Crag

1.27. Montenegro 312 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 19.249058, 42.715567

1.27.1. Podgorica 73 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 19.349064, 42.517595

Description:©

Podgorica is a capital city of Montenegro, with around one hundred fifty thousand inhabitants. It is situated in the central part of the country, at the crossroads of several significant travel routes leading from the seaside to the continental part of the country. It has a good geographical position, between the coastal and mountainous belt. It has the sub-Mediterranean climate which is characterized by warm and dry summers and mild and rainy winters. It represents a good starting point for climbing activities in the crags in its surroundings, in the Morača Canyon, the Mrtvica Canyon, the Cijevna Canyon, the crag above Fundina, Ostroške grede, Kučke Mountains... .

How to get there.

Podgorica as a centre of the state is well-connected (in terms of transportation) with all towns in the Republic, bigger towns of the neighbourhing countries, and with European centres. International Airport Golubovci is located 12 kms away from the city, while the airport in Tivat is about 75 kms away. The Belgrade - Bar railway line runs through Podgorica: for more information on train timetable dial:+38281633663. For further information on bus lines dial: +38281620430. Best information on domestic and international flights can be found on the website of the Montenegrin airline: www.montenegro-airlines.cg.yu

Accommodation

There is a large number of hotels in the city, the list of which along with addresses and other information can be found on the website of the municipality of Podgorica www.podgorica.cg.yu. As there are no developed campgrounds in Podgorica and we know that outdoor sports enthusiasts are not the clients of the four and five star hotels, we can recommend the cheapest hotel in Podgorica, in the Smokovac suburb www.hotelizvor.cg.yu. We hope that things regarding the campsites in Podgorica will change soon

1.27.2. Kučke planine 21 routes in Region

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 19.546478, 42.597043

Description:©

A group of mountains known by the common name Kučke mountains is stretching north-east of Podgorica. Its highest peak is Surdup Peak, with an altitude of 2184masl. There are 14 peaks with the elevation over 2000 metres. In this massif there are also two mountain lakes: Bukumirsko Lake and Rikavačko Lake. Bukumirsko Lake is situated in the northern massif of these mountains, about 45 kms north of Podgorica, that is to say some 40 kilometres south of Kolašin. The elevation of the valley in which the lake is located is 1300 to 1350 metres and the valley is home for several katuns inhabited in the period from June to September. Kučke Mountains have been discovered by the mountain lovers rather late. The beginnings of alpine ascents date back to the end of the nineties of the last century when the members of the Alpine Section of Belgrade climbed several first ascents.

How to Get There

The lake can be reached along several travel routes, the common characteristic of which is a very bad gravel road in the last kilometres. Podgorica-Kržanja-Kastrat-Bljuštura-Bukumirsko Lake - around 45 kms. Asphalt road from Podgorica to Kastrat, further on gravel road for some 15 kilometres. Podgorica-Bioče-Veruša-Mokra-Bukumirsko Lake - about 50 kms. Asphalt road from Podgorica to Topli potok (few kilometres away from Veruša), further on the gravel road for some 5 to 6 kms. Kolašin-Mateševo-Veruša-Mokra-Bukumirsko Lake - around 40 kms. Asphalt road from Kolašin to Topli potok, further on a gravel road for some 5 to 6 kms.

Buses run along the road Podgorica-Veruša, Podgorica-Kržanja and Kolašin-Mateševo, therefore in combinations bus-hike, the latter takes 8 to 15kms (usually with the loaded rucksack on your back). Bus regularly departs from Podgorica only in the morning term, afternoon departures and departures starting from Kolašin depend on incredibly large number of different factors, so relying on those is not exactly the smartest thing to do.

Accommodation

In the valley there are many places suitable for camping, all depending on season, camper's tiredness or the want to socialise, from katuns and their immediate surroundings, to the meadows between Torač Peak and Pasjak Peak. There are springs with drinkable water in a totally satisfactory number. Since there are no mountain huts or developed bivouacs, tents are necessary.

1.27.3. Durmitor 37 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 19.073069, 43.130255

Description:©

Mt Durmitor is one of the most interesting massifs in Montenegro. It belongs to the system of the Dinarides and is situated in the north-western area of Montenegro. The west face of Mt Durmitor is bounded by the Piva River Canyon, the northern and north-eastern part by the Tara River Canyon, the southern part by the Komarnica River Canyon, while to the east over the vast Jezerska visoravan (Lake Plateau) Mt Durmitor continues to the Mt Sinjajevina. On this mountain there are around 50 peaks with the elevation over 2000 meters above sea level, 18 glacial lakes, many glacial cirques, mountain passes, and a large number of rocks with a height of even up to 700 m. All this is concentrated in the small area which makes it one of the most attractive massifs in our country. Peaks and rocks of Mt Durmitor provide extraordinary conditions for rock and alpine climbing, both in summer and winter conditions. The climate of the Durmitor massif is very harsh, typically alpine. Summers are short and cool, while winters are long with heavy snowfalls. The largest settlement at the foot of Mt Durmitor is Žabljak. It is the centre of mountain tourism in Montenegro. The development of mountaineering and rock climbing on Mt Durmitor has a humble history, after all, as in all mountain areas in Montenegro. Mt Durmitor areas have relatively late discovered their beauties to the broader circle of mountain lovers. The more serious alpine ascents and traditional climbs were registered as late as in the 30s of the last century and were performed by alpinists from Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia... After the war alpinists have visited Mt Durmitor more intensively. At that time the mountaineering and rock climbing camps (at which certain rocks were systematically covered) were mostly organised. In the 50s Mt Durmitor was visited by alpinists from Slovenia, Serbia, Croatia, Poland. It was also a period in which the largest number of first ascents in the rocks of Mt Durmitor was performed. The crags are all limestone, but there are so many of them that it is really not hard to find the one which suits us with its solidness, difficulty and aesthetic. So far about some hundred routes have been climbed - some rock routes and some snow and mixed routes, but being scattered in various guidesbooks, clubs and organisations, data on those are pretty unavailable. For the largest number of routes in Mt Durmitoru which were climbed 40, 50 or more years ago, we have used the book „The Rocks of Yugoslavia" by the author Zlatko Smerke as a source. Routes in the rocks of Mt Durmitor peaks have been rarely repeated, so for the largest number of routes we have not been able to obtain additional information which would serve for comparison with the old route descriptions and the future climbers should bear this in mind.

How to Get There

If you're coming to Durmitor by car from the direction of the south, from the Adriatic coast main road over Podgorica (capital city), you can choose between two travel routes. One forks from Podgorica towards Nikšić, further on over Šavnik to Žabljak. The other travel route follows the major main road in the continental region which connects the north and the south. It runs from Podgorica toward Kolašin to Mojkovac, and from here it continues along the Tara River Canyon to Žabljak. Both travel routes in the winter months might be impassable due to the heavy snowfalls. If you are coming to Montenegro by plane, two international airports are available - in Podgorica, about 170 kms and Tivat about 250 kms far from Žabljak. Bus ticket from Podgorica to Žabljak costs about 7 to 8 euros and there are 2 to 3 departures a day.

Accommodation

In the Žabljak itself there are several hotels, motels and pensions as well as a large number of private houses offering lodging services. More regarding this you can find on the website of the local tourist organisation. Here we are going to highlight the accommodation facilities in the very mountain. In the area of Mt Durmitor there are two mountain huts, one bivouac, and one mountain shelter. Mountain hut near the Škrčka Lakes is situated at an altitude of 1723 masl. It has about 30 beds in shared rooms, a kitchen, and a dining room. It is open from mid-June to the end of September. The hut is the ownership of the Durmitor National Park. There is a possibility of pitching tents in the surroundings of the hut by paying an overnight camping fee, because the campground is located in the territory of the national park. Mountain hut in Sušica is open in the summer months. Pitching tents is possible there. On the official website of the Durmitor National Park we couldn't find data concerning the number of available beds in the hut in Sušica and regarding the lodging fees in these two mountain huts. Alpine bivouac is situated in the western part of Velika Karlica at an altitude of 2020 masl. It was built in 1973 by the Belgrade mountaineers and rock climbers. It can provide accommodation for 6 to 8 people. It is open all year round. There is no spring nearby. It has an exceptional location for performing ascents in the rocks of Savin Kuk Peak and Šljeme Peak. Approach starts from Black Lake (Crno jezero)- approximately 2.5 hour hike. Mountain shelter in Lokvice, at an elevation of about 1800 masl, is frequently visited mountain facility in Mt Durmitor, especially due to its location, because it is situated in the direction of the mountain trails starting from Žabljak. It can accommodate 6 to 8 people. The shelter is in a poor condition. It can be reached from Black Lake for about 1.5 hour of hiking. It is open throughout the year. There is a possibility of pitching tents nearby. At Lokvice, there is a small spring of drinkable water which is, however, covered with thick snow during the winter months so don't count on it too much.

1.27.4. Komovi 37 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 19.622176, 42.761711

Description:©

Mt Komovi is a rather large mountain range in the eastern part of Montenegro, almost along the very border with Albania. Mt Komovi massif stretches in the direction SW-NE in a length of around 7 kms. The highest areas consist of the two obvious ridges stretching almost parallel to each other. These two ridges are divided by the large stony Medjukomlje pass. The east ridge is Vasojevićki Kom Peak(2460 m), while in the west ridge there are two dominant peaks - Kučki Kom Summit, at the same time the highest point of this massif (2484), and Ljevorečki Kom Peak, also known by the name of Sjeverni vrh(the North Peak). Due to the poor quality of rocks Mt Komovi is primarily a winter climbing area. A large number of technically undemanding lines provide nice climbing in the good snow conditions. The most attractive route is still Dijadema (The Diadem), 3.5 kms, a continuous ridge traversing: Vasojevićki Kom-Bavani-Kučki Kom-Medjukom and Ljevorečki Kom. First traversing was performed in 1956, and the first and so far the only, winter repeat was performed in 1967. A 400-meter high west rock face of Vasojevićki Kom Peak, still unclimbed, can be especially attractive for climbing in the winter months. Approach to the base of this rock is from Štavna plateau in the direction of Medjukomlje - 1 hr.

How to get there

You can reach Komovi from the direction of Kolašin, Andrijevica and Podgorica. All access directions lead towards the Trešnjevik pass, on the road Kolašin-Andrijevica, from where it takes further few kilometres to the foot of the mountain. In Kolašin one should turn towards Mateševo, a small village 10 kms far from Kolašin. On the crossroads in Mateševo one should turn left and via Bare Kraljske, along a narrow bendy asphalt road through wonderful areas and beech forests reach the Trešnjevik pass (1570 m). Then by the pub turn right onto a solid road through the forest, further few kilometers to the Štavna plateau at the foot of the Vasojevićki Kom Peak, which is the best starting point for all mountain climbing/alpine climbing activities on Mt Komovi. If you are staying in Podgorica and want to visit Mt Komovi, but you want to avoid summer traffic jams in the Morača River Canyon, then from the main road in the Bioče village, 10 km from Podgorica, turn onto the travel route to Lijeva Rijeka and Veruša (narrow asphalt road with a million of bends; it is not recommended in the winter months) which will take you to Mateševo from where further on you should take the already described road. Note: last kilometres of the access directions to the Trešnjevik pass from Kolašin and Andrijevica are impassable every winter for several months. Also, one should be aware that not even one bus runs along the travel route Kolašin - Andrijevica.

Accommodation

There are several accommodation options at the Štavna plateau. During the summer months you can opt for camping, space can't lack or you can stay in eco-katun (eco-cottage summer settlement), a newly built accommodation facility with five-bed wooden cottages, and a restaurant. Rent of one five-bed wooden cottage costs 25 euros per day. Also, it is possible sleep over in the log cabin-shelter, which is owned by the Mountaineering Association Železničar. If you find yourself on Mt Komovi in the winter, besides the log cabin of Železničar, it is also possible to stay in one of the cottages in the katuns left unlocked by the owners during the winter months. In order to stay in the eco- katun during the winter months one is required to call and make a reservation in advance. At the Štavna plateau there are several springs with drinkable water.

1.27.5. Orjen 22 routes in Region

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 18.583255, 42.537995

Description:©

Mt Orjen massif is a part of the mountain range of the coastal mountains of Montenegro, and certainly its most interesting section as well. It occupies the south-western part of Montenegro. In terms of the area, it is the largest mountain massif on the Adriatic coast. It is situated at the junction of three boarders - of Montenegro, Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina. The main section of the massif comprises the groups of peaks situated in its central part which belongs to Montenegro. Mt Orjen is a constituent part of the system of the Dinarides, although it hasn't got the obvious spreading direction typical of the Dinarides. The highest peak of Mt Orjen, Zubački kabao, at the same time the highest peak of the coastal Dinarides, is 1894 metres high. More information on Mt Orjen, places to sleep, marked trails and speleo-objects you can find at www.subra.users.cg.yu Two perhaps the best rocks in Montenegro - Subra and Reovačka greda are situated on this mountain.

1.27.6. Moračke planine & Maganik 0 routes in Region

1.27.7. Boka Kotorska 17 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 18.767175, 42.479182

Description:©

Boka Kotorska Bay is one of the most beautiful bays of the Mediterranean, in which there are old towns of Kotor, Perast and Herceg Novi with the rich cultural tradition, long history, preserved architecture, fortifications, churches, cathedrals, palaces, squares which remember centuries, and other significant sites attracting tourist for a long time. In recent years, Kotor has been increasingly visited by climbers as well. In 2005 the Austrian climbers equipped 15 short routes in three locations.

Rocks in the surroundings of the small fishermen's settlement called Orahovac which is located on the road Kotor-Risan are more attractive for traditional climbing owing to its excellent quality and a beautiful landscape which opens while you are several hundred meters above the sea. In the last two years about 15 new routes, mainly of the lesser difficulty grades, have been climbed. The best time for climbing is from autumn to late spring. The south rock face of the Pestingrad Peak, with the height of about 350-400 m, dominates the town of Kotor. There are no ascended routes on this rock!

How to Get There

You will surely encounter problems in order to get to certain climbing destinations in Montenegro. However, it's not the case with Kotor. As a tourist centre, it has a good traffic connections with its surroundings. It is located 5kms away from the Tivat International Airport. There are numerous bus lines from all regions of Montenegro, and in recent years, from Croatia as well running to Kotor. The nearest railway station is located in Bar, about 65 km away.

Accommodation.

As a tourist centre Kotor offers various forms of lodging. Best information on accommodation facilities in Kotor you can find at www.tokotor.com, the official website of the local tourist organisation.

1.27.8. Hajla 0 routes in Region

Description:©

Mt Hajla is situated in the very east of Montenegro within the municipality of Rožaje. In the broader geographical sense Mt Hajla can be regarded as the part of the north-eastern Prokletije; it spreads along the boarder of Serbia (Kosovo and Metohia) and Montenegro, more precisely, it lies between the source of the Ibar River and Rugovska klisura(gorge) in Kosovo. The relief is characterised by numerous peaks with the elevation of over 2000masl, canyons and gorges of the mountain rivers, numerous and picturesque coniferous forests and mountain pastures. The highest peak of Mt Hajla, 2403masl, is situated at the bare rocky ridge. In terms of height and beauty, a prominent peak is Ahmica Peak(2271masl )as well. Mt Hajla, although one of the fairly high mountains in Montenegro, until the last few years hasn't been widely known and visited. Only with activation of mountaineering associations in Rožaje working on promotion of this gorgeous mountain, among other things, a mountain hut has been built, Hajla has become widely known and visited. On this mountain there are outstanding terrains for ski touring.

How to Get There and Accommodation

As the best starting point for a visit to this mountain we can recommend the town of Rožaje in the very east of Montenegro. Rožaje can be reached from the south, from the direction of Podgorica, along the main road towards Bijelo Polje, further on towards Berane where one should turn left to Rožaje. From Rožaje one should head towards the Bandžov katun at 1460 masl, where there is a mountain hut of the PAK Jelenčica(Mountaineering and Alpine Climbing Club). It is 9 kms away from Rožaje and in the summer it is possible to reach it by passenger car, too. Mountain hut Bandžov can be reached along the road Rožaje - Berane towards the west, after the suburb Suho polje to the first bridge (Dimiskin bridge) over the Ibar River, across the bridge to the left along the gravel road leading to the source of the Ibar River. When you reach the fifth bridge, you'll come across the information board Bandžov, across the bridge on the left. After a kilometre, on the left side you'll come across another small bridge over the stream flowing into the Ibar River, you'll cross it and continue further on to Bandžov. The hut is open all the time during the summer, while in the winter months you must inform them about your visit in advance. It has about thirty beds. There are electricity and water in the hut. It is possible to pitch tents here. Within the katun it is also possible to rent some of the privately owned wooden cottages or log cabins.

1.27.9. Nikšić sa okolinom 0 routes in Region

1.27.10. Maglič - Bioč - Volujak 0 routes in Region

Description:©

Mountan range comprising the mountains Maglić(2338), Bioč(2397) and Volujak(2336) stretches in the north-western part of Montenegro, making a natural border between Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina. In the heart of these mountains in the north-west, at an elevation of about 1500masl Trnovačko Lake is located and it can be used as a base for many ascents in the surrounding rocks. In these mountains there are some of the highest rocks in Montenegro. These rocks were systematically covered at several rock&alpine climbing camps, run in the period from 1949 to 1956, when the largest number of routes was ascended as well. Unfortunately, since then, there are almost no data on rock&alpine climbing activity in these rocks. Within this group of mountains we are going to present Mt Trnovacki Durmitor, too, which is situated among these three massifs and represents a separate entity.

How to Get There

From the Montenegrin side, the best starting point for all climbs and tours in these mountains is the town of Plužine, about 140 kms away from Podgorica, and then one should continue further on towards the Mratinje village, the Stabna village and Trnovacko Lake. The road from the town of Plužine, which is located on the main road Nikšić-Plužine-Foča, leads to the Stabna village. When going from the direction of Nikšić, before the bus station in Plužine, one should turn left into the town. Then one should follow a wide street leading on one's left-hand side. Its extension is also a road leading past Pivsko Lake to the Stabna village along the Vrbnica River. The road is passable for all vehicles. Mratinje village can also be reached along the main road Nikšić-Plužine-Foča. From the direction of Nikšić one should go past Plužine, and continue along the main road leading along Pivsko Lake. When the dam is reached, one should cross it. At the very end of dam there is a tunnel in which the crossroads to the Mratinje village is located as well. One should enter the tunnel which is marked with a signpost and follow the road further on. You can't miss it. The big crags in the massif of Mt Bioč can be reached fastest from the valley of Mratinje. Trnovačko Lake can be reached from three directions. The two of these are in the Montenegrin territory and one is in the Bosnian territory and it is the easiest one. First starts from the Stabna village along the woody valley to Malo Stabansko Lake. From there a steeper ascent to the big lake follows. From the lake head rightwards uphill through the pass to Stabanjska tap. Further to the north along the slopes of Krvava brda(Bloody hills) into the Smrekovac valley where there is a spring. One should continue along the valley to Urdeni dolovi where there is a crossroads of the marked roads. One should follow the left road. Then the descent down the stony and scree-covered slopes follows. One reaches Jezerski klanac(Lake Gorge), from where the road goes along a little wood and steep scree to Trnovacko Lake. From Stabna village the road is a footpath. A long and gruelling approach. The other difficult approach goes from the Mratinje village towards Carev do (Tzar's Dale) from where the trail goes steeply downhill towards the lake. The third and the easiest approach to the lake is from the Bosnian side, Foča-Tjentište-Dragoš sedlo-Prijevor, from where one-hour hike leads you to the lake. A gravel road runs from Tjentište further on, and it is good and suitable for passenger cars.

Where to Sleep.

Bring your tents along. There are no mountain huts, shelters or bivouacs on these mountains-

Climbing season lasts from late spring to early autumn, but climbing is the best during the summer months, because most rocks have the western or northern orientation.

1.27.11. Prokletije 97 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 19.818369, 42.535761

1.27.12. Budva 5 routes in Region

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 18.885353, 42.255237

1.27.13. Lovcen 3 routes in Region

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 18.829169, 42.399053

1.28. Netherlands 7 routes in Region

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 5.434341, 52.396266

1.28.1. Amsterdam City 1 route in Crag

Summary:

1.28.2. The Hague 0 routes in Crag

1.28.3. Spaarnwoude 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.29. Norway 2,749 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 10.528432, 64.569586

1.29.1. Eastern Norway 1,447 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 10.038004, 60.712985

1.29.2. Southern Norway 203 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 7.610698, 58.611304

1.29.3. Western Norway 588 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 6.505902, 61.238206

1.29.4. Mid Norway 450 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 11.080867, 63.973048

Description:

A new guidebook "Trønder Rock" is available from 2011. Includes 9 new cliffs which were not described in the old guidebook.

1.29.5. Northern Norway 61 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 19.628524, 68.750764

1.30. Poland 89 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 19.317007, 52.218857

1.30.1. Sokoliki 40 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 15.867016, 50.869910

1.30.2. Rudawy Janowickie 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 15.894375, 50.857461

1.30.3. Skalki Ladeckie 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 16.909634, 50.330616

1.30.4. Sobótka 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 16.694391, 50.893661

1.30.5. Tatra Mountains 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 19.975268, 49.277169

1.30.6. Warsaw 0 routes in Crag

1.30.7. Trzebniów 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 19.435188, 50.667390

1.30.8. Dolina Szklarki 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 19.727328, 50.191831

1.30.9. Dolina Kobylańska 0 routes in Area

1.30.10. Dolina Bolechowicka 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 19.784482, 50.153059

Description:

sport area with limstone rock, sport routes with various grades from 3 up to 8b

Approach:

10 minutes walk from the parking

1.30.11. Krzemionki 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 19.958516, 50.042885

1.30.12. Zakrzówek 0 routes in Crag

1.30.13. Dolina Będkowska 0 routes in Crag

1.30.14. Dolina Brzoskwini 0 routes in Crag

1.31. Portugal 91 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -16.818005, 39.174575

1.31.1. Lisbon Area 91 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -9.045239, 39.135048

1.31.2. Peneda-Bico do Patelo 0 routes in Crag

1.31.3. Nedia 0 routes in Crag

1.31.4. Torre Pequena 0 routes in Crag

1.31.5. Geres 0 routes in Crag

1.31.6. Santo Tirso Bloc 0 routes in Crag

1.31.7. Tras os Montes 0 routes in Crag

1.31.8. Valongo 0 routes in Crag

1.31.9. Salto-Capela 0 routes in Crag

1.31.10. Suaves Prestacoes 0 routes in Crag

1.31.11. Frago do Cavalo 0 routes in Crag

1.31.12. Serra da Estrela 0 routes in Crag

1.31.13. Redhina-N. Senora d. Estrela 0 routes in Crag

1.31.14. Cagimil 0 routes in Crag

1.31.15. Vale de Poios 0 routes in Crag

1.31.16. Castelejo 0 routes in Crag

1.31.17. Cabo de. S. Vicente 0 routes in Crag

1.31.18. Ponta de Sagres 0 routes in Crag

1.31.19. Rocca Pena 0 routes in Crag

1.31.20. Azores 0 routes in Area

Description:

Ilhas dos Açores

1.32. Romania 132 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 25.028251, 45.819581

Description:

România - some topos (in Romanian): http://www.climbingtopo.ro

1.32.1. Central Region 16 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 25.639705, 45.309782

Description:

guidebook: "Rock Climbing in Romania - A Climbing Guide of Brasov Crags" http://www.climb-europe.com/RockClimbingShop/A-Climbing-guide-of-Brasov-crags.html

1.32.2. Oriental Carpathians 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 25.593795, 46.949297

1.32.3. South-West 3 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Alpine

Long/Lat: 23.370516, 45.358380

1.32.4. Apuseni Mountains 89 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 22.738429, 46.412613

1.32.5. Bucharest 0 routes in Crag

1.32.6. Creasta Cocosului 23 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 23.841684, 47.704513

Unique Features And Strengths:

Formation of volcanic rocks with beautiful view to countryside (1450 metres altitude)

Description:

The relief, composed of volcanic rocks, has a unique look: especially in the Mara valley, the ridge depicts as a series of sharp rocks, a true toothed blade similar to the battlements of a castle or to the comb of a mountain cock, as the locals well observed.

Access Issues:

With off road car it is possible to get directly below the crag (200 metres below), or 2 hours walking from Gutai pass where is possible to park the car

Approach:

2 hours of walk time from Gutai pass (car parking)

Where To Stay:

plenty of hostels and hotels in Baia Mare or Baia Sprie

1.33. Russia 187 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 104.531399, 63.039408

1.33.1. Moscow 0 routes in Region

1.33.2. St. Petersburg 10 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 28.997944, 60.954763

1.33.3. Lechenkif Crag 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Top Rope and Sport

Long/Lat: 43.319039, 43.534447

Unique Features And Strengths:

It has it all, 30 meter sport routes, pumpy boulders and a wide variety of highballs.

Description:

It is located 40 minutes from the republic’s capital of Nalchik and is on most days easily driven to in most any type of vehicle. The rock type is Tuff which allows for a great variety of holds but tends to be on the soft side. There are cracks, crimps, sloppers, bulges, wacos, pockets both passive and positive big and small, pinches, off-widths and the list goes on and on. The area is still being developed and has endless potential. Parts of the crag are climbable most days all of the year due to it's unique placement in a small valley and the south facing face of the main cliff. In summer you'll find routes that are shaded and cool. In spring and fall you'll find routes that are overhung (keeps you dry) as well as in direct sun to keep you warm. In winter if the sun is shining the south facing wall will warm up to a perfect 65* of quiet calm. All sport routes are well protected and most have stainless steel bolts and belay stations. Trad climbing is limitless with the only barrier being your ability to push your limits and the occasional loose boulder the size of a VW Beatle. Marked routes are clean and safe but climb cautiously at other unmarked locations.

Access Issues:

The Crag is easily driven to on most days by car although in winter and spring the road can become impassable by car requiring a four wheel drive. It's located 5 kilometers past the village of Lechenky on a well traveled dead end gravel road. The gravel road is 8 kilometers long and you'll know when you get to the crag because you'll narrow into a small valley with the wall 40 meters to your right. In Russia there are very few places in the woods, hills or mountains that are off limits due to private property and those that there are tend to be well marked.

Approach:

Drive up, park and walk the 40 meters or so to the wall. The hardest things about the approach (in the summer) is the growth of the very healthy stinging nettle which locals say is good for you. The plant life grows to Jurassic park proportions.

Where To Stay:

Nalchik (the republic’s capital) has many modestly priced hotels and sanatoriums (the Russian equivalent of a hotel/hostel) but camping at the crag on climbing days is preferred. There are 3 camping sites each of which allows for different groups sizes. Closest to the crag will host 3-4 tents. Just down from the crag (perhaps 500 meters) is our second campsite which can host 5-6 tents and still further down the road (approximately 2 kilometers) is our third campsite which can hold 20 – 30 tents.

Ethic:

The biggest thing we can ask is that you keep the trash picked up and use common sense when finding a place to use the bathroom. Bolting is best left to those who have the experience and equipment but help in the process is always appreciated. Chalk when needed but use sparingly if possible.

History:

This area was first bolted by an unknown Russian whom I believe lives in the Krasnodar area. He made some homemade hangers in his shop, bought some anchors from the local market and started drilling. He set 2 routes and one traverse. Many of the hangers are still hanging on but plans to remove them are in process. 4 years ago another groups of climbers found the area and began developing it. There are now 26 routes and counting with endless potential. Every time we look up we see another great route. We are now also in the process of building a 200 meter zip-line that will span the valley giving each person a thrilling ride 60 meters off the valley floor.

1.33.4. Krasnodar 168 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 39.351548, 44.753668

1.34. Serbia 208 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 20.812446, 44.002450

1.34.1. Belgrade 0 routes in Crag

1.34.2. Niš 208 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 21.982872, 43.308056

Description:

Niš is located in South-Eastern Serbia and has much potential with limestone cliffs dotted throughout the valleys and even high mountaineering.

1.35. Slovakia 1,142 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 19.479659, 48.703116

1.35.1. Bratislava 0 routes in Crag

1.35.2. High Tatras 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 20.073516, 49.188267

1.35.3. Slovensky Raj 0 routes in Crag

1.35.4. Jelenec BB 66 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.35.5. Zádielska dolina 133 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 20.829104, 48.627918

Unique Features And Strengths:

Gorgeous rocky canyon with plenty of amazing climbing routes mainly moderate and hard difficulty

Description:

Zádiel Gorge (popularly called the Valley - Zádielska dolina) is a monumental rocky canyon with a depth of nearly 400 m, a length of 3 km with the narrowest width of the bottom 10 m. George is located in the Slovak Karst in the village Zádiel in the Kosice region. It is created by water flowing Blatno Creek. Since 1954 the area (acreage of 214.73 hectares) is National natural monument. "Cukrova homola" is the highest towerlike rock unit in Slovakia.

Access Issues:

Parking at lower end of the Gorge

Approach:

From parking by feet from 10 - 40 minutes (depends on sector)

1.35.6. Rozlomity 0 routes in Crag

1.35.7. Jánošíkova Bašta 33 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 21.180234, 48.848531

Unique Features And Strengths:

Small limestone crag with easy and moderate routes

Description:

Small limestone rock formation hidden in the forest with nice view to the valley

Access Issues:

From the village Kysak 2 kilometres by car along the forest road. Possible to car park near old woodsman house.

Approach:

Appoximately 20-25 minutes from the car park up to the hill

1.35.8. Tomášovský výhlad 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 20.460057, 48.944828

1.35.9. Dreveník 81 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 20.775659, 48.987236

Description:

Very popular limestone Crag especially for beginners with lot of easy routes - 4a - 6b mainly

Access Issues:

protected nature area with free access

Approach:

15 minutes from the carpark

Where To Stay:

Small Pension in the village Hodkovce

History:

Climbing for 30 years on this Crag

1.35.10. Turniská 140 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 21.015113, 48.813197

Unique Features And Strengths:

Limestone towers and walls with large cave allowing to climb during the rain

Description:

Cluster of limestone towers and walls up to 40 m height, with large cave allowing to climb during the rain. All kind of routes from easy up to very difficulte grades.

Access Issues:

Parking place near the paved forest road

Approach:

20 mintes by feet from parking

History:

30 years of climbing...

1.35.11. Skalka pri Trenčíne 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 18.074408, 48.906221

Unique Features And Strengths:

Mixture of easy up to very hard overhang routes

Description:

It is limestone rock near river Váh approx. 10-18 metres high with 94 routes

Access Issues:

car park above the crag

Approach:

Only few metres from carpark

1.35.12. Zamutovské skaly 45 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 21.512486, 48.927894

Unique Features And Strengths:

Nice andesite towers and walls from 10 - 30 metres high

Description:

Andesite towers and walls - ideal for hot summer days climbing, because it is hidden in the forest and trees offer nice shadow. All kind of difficulties from very easy to difficult overhangs

Access Issues:

From the village Zámutov approx. 1 kilometer along the forest road there is clearence for wood storage. It is possible to park the car there. Off road car can continue another 1 kilometer.

Approach:

30 - 40 minutes from the car park

1.35.13. Blatnica 94 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 18.938309, 48.926094

Unique Features And Strengths:

Small, but nice limestone formation in National Park "Veľká Fatra"

Description:

Limestone formation 20 - 30 metres high, mostly easy and moderate grades

Access Issues:

Possible to park at the beginning of the Valley at the end of village Blatnica

Approach:

Approximately 1 kilometer from the carpark along the paved road, on the left side

1.35.14. Harmanecká jaskyňa 72 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 19.040979, 48.819037

Unique Features And Strengths:

Very nice limestone crag with large cave sector

Description:

Limestone formation up to 30 metres high. Cave sector enables to climb in bad weather too

Access Issues:

From the city Banská bystrica take north direction - take road No. 59 and 14 toward Harmanec. Car parking approx 100 metres below the Carg - it is the main car parking for Harmanecká Cave

Approach:

5 - 10 minutes depending on sector

1.35.15. Kaľamárka 104 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 19.418669, 48.604393

Unique Features And Strengths:

Nice andesite rock formation with more than 200 routes of all grades

Description:

Kalamarka is a unique andesite area of volcanic origin. It contains two main parts that are up to 30 m high

Access Issues:

From the small city Detva to the north approx. 8 km on paved road.

Approach:

cca. 10 - 15 minutes from the carpark - depending on sector

1.35.16. Súľov 52 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 18.594153, 49.177942

1.35.17. Prečín 42 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 18.528906, 49.076319

1.35.18. Manínska tiesňava 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 18.505509, 49.141660

1.35.19. Tesná skala 74 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 20.123607, 48.785656

Unique Features And Strengths:

Small but nice limestone crag hidden in the forest near the road

Description:

Limestone massif with 15 - 20 metres high routes, mainly higher grades. Difficulty is pretty hard, grading is set up to be tough

Access Issues:

Approximately 1 kilometer from Muranska Huta to north. Parking on small meadow aside the road

Approach:

5 minutes from car park

Where To Stay:

hostel in Murán

1.35.20. Lučivná 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 20.119549, 49.053763

Unique Features And Strengths:

Small limestone crag near the road

Description:

Small limestone crag, up to 20 metres high

Access Issues:

Two kilometres after the village Lučivná, 12 kilometres to the west from the city Poprad

Approach:

2 minutes from the carpark - a little bit hidden in the forest

Where To Stay:

Small hotel in the village Lučivná

1.35.21. Machnatô 61 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 19.594663, 48.987865

Unique Features And Strengths:

Very nice limestone crag with walls and towers up to 30 metres high

Description:

Very nice limestone crag with walls and towers up to 30 metres high. Convenient approach, near to the car park, nice place to stay with family

Access Issues:

From the city Liptovský Mikuláš along Demänovská valley, 800 metres after Jaskyna Slobody cave

Approach:

5 minutes from the car park

Where To Stay:

Plenty of hostels, hotels and pensions nearby

1.35.22. Biela dolinka 69 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 19.658661, 49.023380

1.36. Slovenia 2,817 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 14.821840, 46.117164

1.36.1. Radlje ob Dravi 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 15.210404, 46.616738

1.36.2. Ljubljana 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 14.447999, 46.126909

1.36.3. Retovje 26 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 14.296366, 45.950788

Unique Features And Strengths:

Compact overhanging wall in idyllic nature 15 minutes away from Ljubljana.

1.36.4. Preddvor 57 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 14.432311, 46.317176

Description:

South-east facing crag in the forest with some easier routes, beginner friendly.

Access Issues:

Do not park on the side of the gravel road leading to the bridge, if the parking spot by the bridge is full.

Approach:

From Preddvor, find Nova vas and drive straigh on to a gravel road. Follow it until you reach a bridge and parking spot. From that bridge, follow the path leading on and up into the forest, eventually joining a gravel road. Then look for the wall on your left for sectors A and B, sectors C and D are below the road. You should reach it in 10-15 minutes of walking.

1.36.5. Gore 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 14.051979, 46.008028

1.36.6. Strug 52 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 14.009815, 45.970489

1.36.7. Zasavje 174 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 14.986013, 46.133528

1.36.8. Gornji Ig 73 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 14.492271, 45.913423

1.36.9. Iški Vintgar 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 14.492998, 45.907608

Description:

A small crag in the forest next to Iška river.

Approach:

10 minute walk from parking at the end of the road in Iški vintgar, on the right side of the path.

1.36.10. Šumberk 23 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 14.604412, 46.140559

Access Issues:

From highway exit for Domžale towards Kamnik turn left on first intersection, then after 150m, before the bridge over Rača, turn left onto a small driveway to a parking spot. From there on it's a 5min walk to the crag.

1.36.11. Ter 92 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 14.874835, 46.351161

1.36.12. Raktinica 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 14.736290, 45.680167

Description:

Small local crag in the woods above village of Raktinica in Ribnica municipality. Short, overhanging and bouldery routes. In addition to sport routes, there are also boulders suitable for climbing in the same area.

1.36.13. Tolmin 141 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 13.681594, 46.264339

1.36.14. Radvoljica 311 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 13.995116, 46.324400

1.36.15. Ajdovscina 432 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 13.931193, 45.876474

1.36.16. Zalec 476 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 15.071116, 46.254546

1.36.17. Koper 749 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 13.836513, 45.514424

1.36.18. Skofja Loka 96 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 14.154271, 46.154095

1.37. Spain 18,404 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -2.677518, 40.264112

1.37.1. Catalan coastal ranges north 3,688 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 2.421596, 41.609353

Description:

The Barcelona area has hundreds of readily accessible crags, one even just 20min away from the airport. Climbing can be done all year round.

1.37.2. Pyrenees 5,343 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 0.592033, 42.374951

1.37.3. Costa Daurada 3,434 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 0.710044, 40.945004

1.37.4. Valencia - Cuenca Area 1,311 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -1.096937, 39.946932

1.37.5. Costa Blanca 977 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -0.960332, 38.308568

1.37.6. Granada - Almeria Area 203 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -3.056483, 37.445647

1.37.7. Malaga - Sevilla Area 692 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -5.747556, 37.115500

1.37.8. Toledo - Salamanca Area 2 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -5.146468, 39.499524

1.37.9. Madrid Area 563 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -3.755956, 40.685247

Description:

Free climbing place in the city center

Parque de Roma

1.37.10. Vigo - A Coruna Area 3 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -7.803228, 42.984123

1.37.11. Oviedo Area 9 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: -6.048820, 43.348461

1.37.12. Leon Area 37 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -5.146757, 42.562657

1.37.13. Bilbao - Burgos Area 83 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: -3.774576, 42.383808

1.37.14. Pamplona - Vitoria Gasteiz Area 29 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -2.053512, 42.721544

1.37.15. Zaragoza - Soria Area 16 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: -1.269004, 41.521076

1.37.16. Islas Canarias (Canary Islands) 553 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: -16.102398, 28.255098

1.37.17. Baleares Islands 1,461 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Deep Water and other styles

Long/Lat: 2.767705, 39.423503

1.38. Sweden 1,954 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 17.083594, 62.281906

Description:

overview of Swedish climbing areas: http://www.sverigeforaren.se

1.38.1. Stockholm 987 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 18.076911, 59.305370

Description:

Stockholm has around 150 documented cliffs with a height between 10-40 meters. All in all here is more than 2 500 routes on these cliffs. The city and its neighbouring archipelago makes some of the climbing very beautiful, especially summer time when you can climb almost 24h a day. An online topo is found here: http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Stockholm

1.38.2. Bohus 273 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 11.374786, 58.677373

1.38.3. Gothenburg 152 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 12.137935, 57.755975

1.38.4. Älvdalen, Vitturn 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.38.5. Falkberget,pitea 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.38.6. Halmstad 0 routes in Crag

1.38.7. Niemisel 0 routes in Crag

1.38.8. Källsberget 0 routes in Crag

1.38.9. Kjugekull 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 14.363864, 56.074663

1.38.10. Hedemora Kommun 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Alpine

1.38.11. Gotland 0 routes in Crag

1.38.12. Nyköping 56 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Sport

1.38.13. Eskilstuna 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.38.14. Tjörn 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

1.38.15. Borås 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 12.838220, 57.672890

1.38.16. Fjärdhundra 34 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 16.983134, 59.792649

Unique Features And Strengths:

A mostly vertical wall of 10-15 meter height. Fun climbing on distinct grip and good friction for the feet.

Description:

1.38.17. Noret 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 18.352654, 59.211505

1.38.18. Ågelsjön 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

1.38.19. Västervik 90 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 16.029710, 58.153456

1.38.20. Solvik 24 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 16.113234, 58.308779

Unique Features And Strengths:

Overhanging wall with hard Sportclimbing routes.

Description:

1.38.21. Målstena 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 16.112161, 58.325389

Description:

Klippan är 15 till 20 meter hög och sydvänd. Den består av kompakt och fast rödaktig granit med god friktion. Klippan har två väggar, en svavägg med lättare leder, och en vertikal vägg med hårdare leder. För uppvärmning inför klättring på Huvudväggen kan första hälften av Ove's livs (4bb, 6a) och första hälften av Bobo viking (4bb, 6b) rekommenderas.

Access Issues:

Klättring är ej tillåten under älgjakten.

Approach:

Från Linköping kör väg 35 mot Åtvidaberg. I rondellen vid Vårdsberg sväng av vänster mot Askeby och Björsäter. I Björsäter sväng vänster mot Ringarum. En dryg kilometer från Björsäter sväng vänster in mot Östra Ryd. Efter 4 kilometer svänger vägen kraftigt vänster. Ta av till höger i kurvan vid det triangelformade avtaget och efter 100 meter är parkeringen på fältet under kraftledningen. Klippan är nu 100m bort längs vägen. Parkeringen: N 58,3246, E 16,1106 (6465387, 565050, SWEREF99 TM) Klippan: N 58,3253, E 16,1122 (6465466, 565142, SWEREF99 TM)

1.38.22. Uppsala 43 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 17.462344, 59.778837

1.38.23. Sundsvall 119 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 17.325182, 62.362216

1.38.24. Kullaberg 40 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 12.482489, 56.294505

Description:

Seaside cliffs

1.39. Switzerland 13,892 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 8.221210, 46.802199

1.39.1. Jura 4,835 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 7.071905, 47.138347

1.39.2. Mittelland 525 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 7.881829, 47.145125

1.39.3. Alpen 8,532 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 8.548878, 46.623681

1.40. Ukraine 569 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 31.722823, 48.587063

1.40.1. Kyiv 0 routes in Crag

1.40.2. Crimea 215 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 34.243902, 45.222496

1.40.3. Zhitomir 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 28.645894, 50.247117

1.40.4. Deneshi 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 28.387631, 50.201289

1.40.5. Buky 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 30.397914, 49.090797

1.40.6. Dovbush Rocks 90 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 23.682935, 49.042670

1.40.7. Kamianets-Podilskyi 112 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 26.577994, 48.678202

1.40.8. Kaspich Roks (Dynamo) 31 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 28.463872, 49.219080

1.40.9. Dzvonyha 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 28.574252, 49.009242

1.40.10. Yuzhnoukrainsk 26 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 31.178099, 47.805471

1.41. United Kingdom 25,382 routes in Region

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -3.087487, 55.224119

Description:

1.41.1. England 22,730 routes in Region

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -1.630762, 52.518473

1.41.2. Scotland 852 routes in Region

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: -3.917442, 57.999293

1.41.3. Wales 1,800 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: -3.833445, 52.321183