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La Grande Face Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Campbell Gome

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Table of contents

1. La Grande Face 44 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.493110, 6.043881

description

Last of the "Grande Face" sector and last to go in the shade in the early afternoon. Climbing is possible when it rains on some of the routes.

access issues

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

inherited from France

ethic

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

inherited from France
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Gauche

2 Arielle

Exceptional but not easy.

Set: Daniel Guigo, 1996

6b Sport 38m, 11
3 La Poursuite du Gri Gri

Watch for rope drag.

Set: Guigo & Gorgeon, 1996

6b Sport 38m, 12
4 L'esprit du rat

Same start as Beatitude.

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

6b+ Sport 28m, 10
5 Beatitube

Committed.

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

7a Sport 26m, 7
6 Sweet Smoke

Set: Patrick Taton, 1993

8b Sport 28m, 6
7 Are you ready?

Nice line

Set: Jean-Marc Roman

8b+ Sport 28m, 6
8 Azur

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

7b Sport 20m

Centre

10 Les Frontierres du neant

Continuous and a surprise.

Set: Jean-Marc Roman, 1996

6c+ Sport 28m, 7
11 O'Terren

Currently being developed.

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

Project SportProject 20m
12 Lueurs bleues

Currently being developed

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

project SportProject 20m
13 Le Moutouki

Not currently bolted.

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier

7c Sport 31m
14 Le Moutouki direct

Not bolted.

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier

8a Sport 35m
15 Les Courleurs du Charme

Short intense section, then sustained.

Set: Jean-Marc Roman, 1996

7b+ Sport 30m, 10
16 Le magicien d'Oz (direct)

A little bit harder than the dihedral variation.

Set: S. Jaulin

7a Sport 30m, 8
17 Le magicien d'Oz (par le diedre)

Via the dihedral. Positioning!

Set: Serge Jaulin

7a Sport 30m, 10
18 Yellow shark

2nd pitch, possible after 'Le Magicien de Oz'

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

7a Sport 18m, 6
19 Autisme

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

7a Sport 19m, 6
20 Entropie

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

7a+ Sport 20m, 6
21 La Femme Fatale

Tough on the fingers.

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

8a+ Sport 33m, 10
22 Jazzogene

Unreal rock! 80m rope mandatory.

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

8a+ Sport 40m, 11
23 Marabout

Often wet, glued holds...

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier

7c+ Sport 45m, 2, 8
24 Les Soeurs "Trou-Trou"

Sustained, glued holds.

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

8a Sport 45m, 14
25 Abolition des Privileges

At L1 anchors continue slightly right and straight up.

Legendary boulder problem. Liking the two pitches together is 7c.

Set: Serge Jaulin

7b+ Sport 45m, 2, 14
26 Le Grand

Climb Abolition Des Privileges L1. At anchors head left past several deep 2 finger pockets and up.

Set: S. Jaulin

7c Sport 38m, 14
27 Le Diktateur

Athletic climbing and varied holds.

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

7c+ Sport 30m, 10
28 La Forteresse du Vide

Variation of Le Diktateur going left.

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

8a Sport 45m, 15
29 Toreador, prends garde

Boulder problem is often damp.

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

7b Sport 19m
30 Le Signe du Taureau

Sustained with two cruxes.

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

7b+ Sport 41m, 2, 13
31 Lena Buuddha

Glued and chipped holds, often wet.

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

7c+ Sport 40m, 2, 15
32 Kanao

Delicate mantle move on pitch 1.

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

7c Sport 45m, 13

Droite

34 Le Grande Neurone

Two cruxes on glued holds.

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

7c+ Sport 40m, 13
35 La Soif du Mal

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

8a Sport 40m, 14
36 Quinoa

Hard to read. Glued, chipped holds.

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

7c+ Sport 40m, 13
37 Tchernobyl

Lots of chipped holds.

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

7c Sport 32m, 11
38 Faux Mouvements

First pitch is not bolted. Second pitch is good - start from the anchors of Tchernobyl.

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier

7b+ Sport 52m, 2
39 Tiane Mobylette

Slab, sustained, committing.

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

7b+ Sport 40m, 11
40 Mercurius

Same start as Tiane, then right.

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

7b+ Sport 40m, 12
41 Corto Balese

Section on sloppers. Very technical and committing.

Set: Robert Cortijo & J.M Roman

7c+ Sport 40m, 8
42 Le Chmatex

Set: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1996

7a Sport 40m, 13
43 Fleur carnivore 7b Sport 39m, 12
44 Turbulences 7a+ Sport 38m, 12
45 La Disparition 7c+ Sport 38m, 9
46 Abécédaire 6c+ Sport 38m, 12
47 Habitus 6b+ Sport 37m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
6b Arielle Sport 38m, 11
La Poursuite du Gri Gri Sport 38m, 12
6b+ Habitus Sport 37m
L'esprit du rat Sport 28m, 10
6c+ Abécédaire Sport 38m, 12
Les Frontierres du neant Sport 28m, 7
7a Autisme Sport 19m, 6
Beatitube Sport 26m, 7
Le Chmatex Sport 40m, 13
Le magicien d'Oz (direct) Sport 30m, 8
Le magicien d'Oz (par le diedre) Sport 30m, 10
Yellow shark Sport 18m, 6
7a+ Entropie Sport 20m, 6
Turbulences Sport 38m, 12
7b Azur Sport 20m
Fleur carnivore Sport 39m, 12
Toreador, prends garde Sport 19m
7b+ Abolition des Privileges Sport 45m, 2, 14
Faux Mouvements Sport 52m, 2
Le Signe du Taureau Sport 41m, 2, 13
Les Courleurs du Charme Sport 30m, 10
Mercurius Sport 40m, 12
Tiane Mobylette Sport 40m, 11
7c Kanao Sport 45m, 13
Le Grand Sport 38m, 14
Le Moutouki Sport 31m
Tchernobyl Sport 32m, 11
7c+ Corto Balese Sport 40m, 8
La Disparition Sport 38m, 9
Le Diktateur Sport 30m, 10
Le Grande Neurone Sport 40m, 13
Lena Buuddha Sport 40m, 2, 15
Marabout Sport 45m, 2, 8
Quinoa Sport 40m, 13
8a La Forteresse du Vide Sport 45m, 15
La Soif du Mal Sport 40m, 14
Le Moutouki direct Sport 35m
Les Soeurs "Trou-Trou" Sport 45m, 14
8a+ Jazzogene Sport 40m, 11
La Femme Fatale Sport 33m, 10
8b Sweet Smoke Sport 28m, 6
8b+ Are you ready? Sport 28m, 6
Project O'Terren SportProject 20m
project Lueurs bleues SportProject 20m
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