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The holy grail of bouldering. Every serious boulderer should visit Fontainbleau at least once in their life. You'll find a beautiful landscape, perfect rock and the need for a wide variety of climbing skills!
Located close to Paris, so there are many options to get there. Generally, a car is recommended to reach most of the sectors. From the La Musardière campsite, the Trois Pignos sectors can be easily reached by bike (or even by foot)
Trains to Bois-le Roi and Fontainebleau-Avon leave from the Gare de Lyon in Paris. From them, several sectors can be reached by a short hike of about 30min.
Campsite La Musardière for direct access to the Trois Pignos area. Several other campsites are around, but they require a car to reach the sectors.
The sandstone is fragile. To preserve the area (and the climbs) please follow the following rules: (1) Use chalk with caution and brush it off afterwards. (2) Chalk should only be used on hands, never directly on the rock! (3) Clean your climbing shoes on a doormat before any climb. This is essential to limit rock erosion.
1908 the Paris Alpin club marked the first parcours to practice techniques for the higher montains. Since then, Fontainbleau has always been on the forefront of the development of bouldering. Examples are 'L'Angle Allain' 5+ (1935, Pierre Allain), "La Marie Rose" 6A (1946, René Ferlet), 'La Joker' originally 6C, nowadays a hard 7A (1952, Robert Paragot), 'L‘Abbatoir' 7A (1960, Michel Libert), 'Le Carnage' 7B (1983, Jérôme Jean-Charles, 1983), 'La Bérézina' 7C (1977, Pierre Richard), 'C‘était demain' 8A (1984, Jacky Godoffe), 'Fat Man' 8B (1984, Jacky Godoffe).
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