Showing all 6 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Aiguille de l'Index | |||||
5b | ★★ Brunat-Perroux
| 250m, 7 | |||
Aiguille du Pouce | |||||
5c | ★★ Voie des Dalles
A classic slab climb with some tricky route finding. A few bolts guiding the way over the slabs, otherwise small cams and nuts. Depending on season you may need crampons and axe for approach & descent. FA: Kintzeler, Mallon & Marutzi, 1967 | 400m, 15 | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Voie des Français
Climb up center of face L of big corner. FA: Kohlmann, Saint-Armand & Mazeaud, 1960 | 350m, 15 | |||
Aiguilles Crochues | |||||
PD | ★★★ Crochues Traverse
From Rockfax: 6 - 8 hours. One of the most popular routes in the valley. The scrambling is excellent throughout and the rock quality is consistently good until the initial part of the descent, but this is low-angled and brief. Other than the pegs on the first pitch and bolts on the abseil, the route is unequipped so you'll need a rack, albeit a fairly small one. Approach: From the top of the Index chairlift, descend towards Lac Blanc for 50m then take the jeep track on the left which takes you up towards the Grande Floria and Aiguillette de la Floria. Just after the path branches off to the Grande Floria, the jeep track crests a small col and begins to descend rightwards. When it does this, cut off left and pass under the Aiguillette de la Floria and then climb up to the top of the Floria drag lift. 20m past the drag lift take a path off left, across the scree slope and under the foot of Pointe Gaspard before climbing the gully above, on the left initially, following a grassy path. Continue up the path to the col. The final rocky step to the col is up a left-slanting crack which may feel a bit tricky if wet, so you may be glad of a rope on this section. From the col, go east over 50m of easy ground, along a vague ledge system up and rightwards, underneath the Crochues west ridge to reach the foot of the chimney which marks the start of the route - around 1 hour from the chairlift.
Descent: From the north summit, descend to Lac Blanc by scrambling down the Crochues North Ridge for 100m to where the ridge widens out and becomes less solid. Drop off the ridge rightwards and descend a scree/snow slope eastwards towards Lac Blanc. This slope is often snowy well into the summer season but it is the ideal angle for glissading so you can normally get away without crampons. If you leave the crampons behind and realise you need them for the descent, it is possible to carry on along the Crochues north ridge towards the Col du Dards. Shortly before reaching this the ridge drops steeply away and from here, make a 20m abseil east to reach the scree/snow slope where the angle is much lower. Continue down to Lac Blanc and either return to the Index chairlift (45 minutes from Lac Blanc) on an undulating path or descend down to the Flégère cable car (90 minutes). FA: P.le Bec & T.de Lépiney, 1920 | 500m | |||
Aiguille de la Glière | |||||
5a | ★★ Modern Times
A nice bolted climb with great views. Start altitude: 2,225m Approach: From the top of the Index chairlift, head slightly left towards the buttress. The route is on the wall facing you. Enter the route from the right of the buttress, up where the terrain gets noticeably more vertical.
Descent: Scramble down a route off the back of the buttress towards a loose gully between you and l’Index. Scramble generally leftwards down the gully towards an equipped 28m abseil. At the foot of the abseil walk directly back to the chairlift. FA: R.Grindley, E.Grindley & M.Johnson, 2007 | 190m, 6 | |||
Aiguille de la glière Sud - Arrête sud
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Showing all 6 routes.