A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Les Gaillands
141 in Crag
- 1.1. Petit Gailland 33 in Sector
- 1.2. Echelles 17 in Sector
- 1.3. Grand Gailland 20 in Sector
- 1.4. Vipères 10 in Sector
- 1.5. Forestiers 22 in Sector
- 1.6. Chasseurs 10 in Sector
- 1.7. Dièdre Frendo 16 in Sector
- 1.8. Picsou 12 in Sector
- 1.9. Miscellanous routes 1 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Les Gaillands 141 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 45.914922, 6.846827
description
Falaise historique d’entraînement des guides de Chamonix. Parking devant la falaise. Forte fréquentation en été (écoles d’escalade). A l’ombre à partir de 16h30.
access issues
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/
ethic
Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.
1.1. Petit Gailland 33 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 45.915574, 6.847593
description
Partie droite de la paroi visible du parking.
approach
100m.
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ Le toit
Easy scramble up the first pitch. Little roof on pitch 3 with some stemming action | 6a+ | 3 | |||||
| 2 | ★ Le Dièdre Terray | 6a | ||||||
| 3 |
★ (unknown)
right vom P1 of "La diedre Terray" | 4a | 20m, 11 | |||||
| 4 | Le fin pilier | 6c | ||||||
| 5 |
unknown 4
route left of "La directe Lachenal" | 5a | 25m | |||||
| 6 | La directe Lachenal | 5c | ||||||
| 7 | ★ Le pilier rouge | 5b | 20m | |||||
| 8 | Unknown | 4a | 25m | |||||
| 9 | (Furthest R route) | 4b | ||||||
| 10 | ★ (Route R of above through roof) | 7a+ | ||||||
| 11 | Directe á l'arbre | 5c | ||||||
| 12 |
Unknown 3
Third route to the right of La diagonale, finishes to the left of the arette | 5c | ||||||
| 13 |
Unknown 2
Second route to the left of La diagonale, finishes up the arette | 5c | 25m | |||||
| 14 |
★★ Unknown 1
First route to the left of La diagonale | 6a | 25m | |||||
| 15 | La diagonale alternate start | 3c | ||||||
| 16 | La diagonale | 4c | 2 | |||||
| 17 | ★ Variante du dièdre | 5c | ||||||
| 18 | ★★ La plaque rouge | 5b | ||||||
| 19 | La centrale | 4c | ||||||
| 20 | Les écailles direct | 5c | ||||||
| 21 | Les écailles | 5b | ||||||
| 22 | La zig zag | 5c | 16m | |||||
| 23 |
★ Le Zig sans Zag
possible belay in the middle | 6a+ | 30m | |||||
| 24 | ★★ Le surplomb Martinetti | 6c | 30m | |||||
| 25 | ★★ Les Lézards | 7a | ||||||
| 26 | Directe aux Guides | 6b | 15m | |||||
| 27 | ★ La Franco Directe | 6b | 90m, 2 | |||||
| 28 | La Franco | 5c+ | ||||||
| 29 | ★ La voie du golot gauche | 6a | ||||||
| 30 | ★★ La voie du golot directe | 6b+ | 15m | |||||
| 31 |
★★ Sur le fil
A proper slab climb. | 6c | 12m | |||||
| 32 |
L'Y de gauche
left finish of the Y-shaped crack | 5c | ||||||
| 33 |
★ L'Y de droite
right finish of the Y-shaped crack | 5c | ||||||
1.2. Echelles 17 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 45.915421, 6.847260
description
Partie centrale de la paroi visible du parking (à droite des échelles métalliques). Voies d’une longueur équipées pour les moulinettes.
approach
100m
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Le dessert des Tatares | 5a | 20m | |||||
| 2 |
La double fissure de l'ingratitude
Départ féroce. | 6a | 20m, 6 | |||||
| 3 | ★★ La compagnie des Indes | 6b | 20m | |||||
| 4 | Cheikh en blanc | 6a | 20m | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 5 | ★★ Le toit direct | 6a+ | 21m, 6 | |||||
| 6 | ★★ Le toit | 5c+ | 21m, 7 | |||||
| 7 |
★★ Le mur gauche
Dièdre-cheminée à droite du grand toit. | 5a | 21m, 8 | |||||
| 8 |
★★★ Le mur
Départ commun avec Sans nom 3 ensuite partir à gauche pour terminer dans un petit mur. | 5b | 21m, 8 | |||||
| 9 |
★★ Le mur droite
Départ à gauche du toit oblique pour terminer par un dièdre lisse à droite. | 5a | 21m, 9 | |||||
| 10 |
★★ Sans nom 4
Éviter un petit toit oblique par la droite pour rejoindre un vague pilier. | 4c | 21m, 9 | |||||
| 11 |
Sans nom 5
Quitter le grand dièdre-cheminée facile après 5m et poursuivre à gauche. | 4b | 21m, 9 | |||||
| 12 | Voie la plus facile | 3c | 25m | |||||
/15/b5/15b5335cd7ced0f6db047ca936e7ac98f6bf0e52) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 13 |
Sans nom 6
4a jusqu’au relais intermédiaire après 15m. Deuxième partie commune avec Sans nom 3 (un pas de 5a juste au-dessus du relais facultatif). | 5a | 24m | |||||
| 14 |
Pilier a droite
4a jusqu’au relais intermédiaire. Deuxième partie commune avec Sans nom 4. | 5a | 24m | |||||
| 15 | Sans nom 8 | 4c | 24m, 11 | |||||
| 16 | ★★ Sans nom 9 | 5a | 24m | |||||
| 17 |
Sans nom 10
Nouvelle voie à l’extrémité droite du secteur. Relais à 20m ou sortie par Sans nom 9. | 4c | 18m, 7 | |||||
1.3. Grand Gailland 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 45.915219, 6.846855
description
Partie gauche de la paroi visible du parking.
approach
100m.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★★ L'arete Integrale | 6a | ||||
| 2 | ★★ La Venger | 5b | ||||
| 3 | ★★ Les Rings Argentes | 5a | 70m, 3 | |||
| 4 | ★★ La savonnette | 5c | ||||
| 5 | ★★ Pilier de la plaque | 6a | ||||
| 6 | ★★ La Plaque | 7a | 12m | |||
| 7 | ★ La plaque direct | 7c | 15m | |||
| 8 | ★ AD | 5a | 3 | |||
| 9 | ★★ La directissime | 6a+ | 3 | |||
| 10 | Le pilier gris | 5a | ||||
| 11 | Petit Mur | 6a | ||||
| 12 | La directe | 5b | ||||
| 13 | L'arête Frison | 5b | ||||
| 14 | Pilier de gauche | 6a | ||||
| 15 | ★ Le petit surplomb | 5b | ||||
| 16 |
Le Diedre Rouge
Final pitch of Le petit surplomb. | 6a | ||||
| 17 | La cheminée des Guides | 5a | ||||
| 18 | Monchus Left | 3c | ||||
| 19 | Pilier des Monchus | 3c | ||||
| 20 | Pilier des Monchus Right | 4c | ||||
1.4. Vipères 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 45.914792, 6.846490
description
Paroi triangulaire d’initiation à l’escalade.
approach
Marcher 150m en contournant par la gauche l’étang à l’extrémité gauche de la paroi principale.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Sans nom 1 | 3c | ||||
| 2 | Sans nom 2 | 3c | ||||
| 3 | La Saintous | 3c | ||||
| 4 | ★ Rattlesnakes | 3c | 2 | |||
| 5 | Dièdre des pompons | 4b | 3 | |||
| 6 | L'aspic | 3b | 2 | |||
| 7 | Sans nom 3 | 4a | ||||
| 8 | Les terrassiers | 3c | 2 | |||
| 9 | Sans nom 4 | 3c | ||||
| 10 | Sans nom 5 | 3c | ||||
1.5. Forestiers 22 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 45.914668, 6.845788
approach
Emprunter le chemin qui sépare le lac au sud du parking d’un petit étang à gauche de la paroi principale et monter à droite sur 50m après le secteur Vipères.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ L’arête des bûcherons
Follow the steep left corner | 5c | 30m | |||||
| 2 |
La libérable
Follow line to the left of the roof | 5b | 30m | |||||
| 3 | Nouvelle voie | 4c | 30m | |||||
| 4 | Moustikul | 4c | 25m, 9 | |||||
| 5 | ★ La Daille à Dédé | 4c | 25m | |||||
| 6 |
La Forestière
30m to the first station. Three 15m extensions above ranging from 5b, 5c, 4b (L to R). | 5b | 45m, 2 | |||||
| 7 |
★ Le petit toit
Delicate crimpy slab start leads to slightly easier climbing on flakes. | 6a+ | 30m | |||||
| 8 |
★ La D
Straight, then left across Le petit toit before heading to a corner | 5b | 30m | |||||
| 9 | ★★ La Michoquo | 6a | 50m, 2 | |||||
| 10 |
★★ La Vipérine
Best route I did at this crag. Can't remember the exact bolt count but I took a dozen draws and used most of them. | 5c | 30m | |||||
| 11 |
★ Route 11 in guide
Cool route. Excellent warm up for this wall. 60 m rope will work for p1, but barely. | 5c | 50m, 2, 11 | |||||
| 12 | ★ La Petite Marie | 5c | 50m, 2, 11 | |||||
| 13 |
La dalle
Slab climbing | 6a | 30m | |||||
| 14 | Le Compas | 4c | 2 | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 15 |
L'Eperon Claret
L2 engagée. | 6a | 45m, 3, 10 | |||||
| 16 |
★ Dalle gauche
The 6a R of L'Eperon Claret | 6a | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 17 |
Dalle droite
The 5c R of the 6a R of L'Eperon Claret. Make some interesting slab moves up a short face to an anchor on the big ledge. 5c straight over the bolts, easier if climbed from the right. | 5c | 10m, 5 | |||||
| 18 |
La Bastoche
Longer et franchir un surplomb oblique entre L2 de l’Eperon Claret et L2 du Sorbier et terminer par un court pas technique en dalle pour rejoindre R2 de l’Eperon Claret. | 5c | 20m, 8 | |||||
| 19 |
Le Sorbier
Climb slab to the ledge, then crawl into an extended, often awkward corner/chimney system. At the top of the corner are two bolts with tat which can seve as a belay. At the top of the big block on your left you will find yourself looking up a beautiful short corner to finish the line. Alternatively you can climb the arête to your right which is slightly harder. One rap if rope is an 80. Two raps if shorter. | 5a | 35m, 2, 12 | |||||
| 20 |
La Polytechnique
Variant right of Le Sorbier P2. | 6a | ||||||
| 21 |
★ Le Marteau
P1 - 10m 4c P2 - 6b+ (can be avoided moving right at 6a) | 6b+ | 40m, 2 | |||||
| 22 |
La Facile
Furthest climb to the right. Shares the P1 anchor of Le Marteau | 4b | 10m | |||||
1.6. Chasseurs 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 45.914601, 6.845540
description
Secteur déversant exposé au sud-ouest. Départ des voies en pente.
approach
Passer l’angle gauche du secteur Forestiers.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ La Cheminée des chasseurs | 5b | ||||||
| 2 | ★ Finies les vacances | 5b+ | ||||||
| 3 |
★★ Barracuda
Technical wall climbing. | 6c+ | 25m | |||||
| 4 |
★ Petite Fleur Des Champs
| 7a | 2 | |||||
| 5 | ★ La Ckesia | 6a+ | 27m, 2 | |||||
| 6 |
★ Le surplomb a Zian
1)5c 2)6b | 6b+ | 25m, 2 | |||||
| 7 | ★ Jypskey | 6a+ | 27m | |||||
/8f/f5/8ff50f7c755ac35becd67d76eaaf4494b959f882) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 8 | ★★ Le Couscous | 6c | 20m | |||||
| 9 | ★★ La Spitre | 7a | 25m | |||||
| 10 | ★★ La Bollonaire | 7a | 25m | |||||
1.7. Dièdre Frendo 16 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 45.914850, 6.845279
approach
Poursuivre un chemin raide pendant 50m après le secteur Chasseurs.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★★ Fissure à l'ours | 6b+ | ||||
| 2 |
Princesse Hortense
Départ à droite d’un bloc de 10m bien marqué. | 5c | 25m | |||
| 3 | ★★ Liscot junior | 4b | 20m | |||
| 4 | ★★ L'arête | 5c | ||||
| 5 | ★★ Gertrude | 5c | 2 | |||
| 6 | ★★ L'insoutenable légèreté de ma mère | 5b | ||||
| 7 | Toutounet attitude | 6b+ | 2 | |||
| 8 | ★★★ Maladie d'amour sexuel | 6b | 2 | |||
| 9 | ★★ Dix-huit berges | 6b | 3 | |||
| 10 | ★ Le Virofrêney | 5c | 3 | |||
| 11 | ★ Lame de Rasoir | 6a | 20m | |||
| 12 | ★★ La Batson | 6a+ | 45m, 2 | |||
| 13 | ★★ Le dièdre Frendo | 5c | ||||
| 14 | Dark Totor | 5c | ||||
| 15 | La Raflee | 6a | 15m | |||
| 16 | Un Geranium dans le Dos | 5b | 15m | |||
1.8. Picsou 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 45.914435, 6.844576
description
Ensemble de voies courtes bien équipées mais envahies par les mousses par manque de visites (état en juillet 2021).
approach
Prendre le chemin peu pentu face à l’escalier en bois du secteur du dièdre Frendo pendant une minute.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Riri | 3c | ||||||
| 2 | Fifi | 3c | ||||||
| 3 | Loulou | 4a | ||||||
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 4 | Donald | 4c | ||||||
| 5 | Daisy | 5a | ||||||
| 6 | ★ Dingo | 6a+ | ||||||
| 7 | ★ Pluto | 5c | ||||||
| 8 | Géo | 6a | ||||||
| 9 | Mickey | 6a | ||||||
| 10 | Minnie | 5c | 10m | |||||
| 11 | Gontrand | 4c | ||||||
| 12 | Rappetous | 3c | ||||||
1.9. Miscellanous routes 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ (7a piller route) | 7a | ||||
