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Fantastic long multi pitch routes that top out on a real summit. Some of these are ten pitches plus and grade in the 7's. Top pitches are well sculpted with "Tafoni", which is a feature of corsican granite
You could spend a whole two week break on this mountain crag alone. If your after shorter 2 and 3 pitch routes then head for the high platform on the right called the Grand Vire. Bolts are spaced on the long routes. Take a small rack of trad gear to suppliment these.
I know of no access issues
The start of the footpath is a little hard to find, but is fairly straight forward after that. It is quite a steep walk in and can take up to an hour. The slog up hill is worth it though.
Where to stay
Camping les Eaux Vives, between Ajaccio and Bocognano. 0495528109
The long routes were developed nearly 20 years ago by Jean-Toussaint Casanova (great name) and Didier Micheli. (Casanova died 5 years later re-bolting his master piece Carillon du Desespoir, which is a 9 pitch sport route graded at 6b+ with one pitch of 7b+.
There are no open trips for this crag
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