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Summary

Fantastic long multi pitch routes that top out on a real summit. Some of these are ten pitches plus and grade in the 7's. Top pitches are well sculpted with "Tafoni", which is a feature of corsican granite

Description

You could spend a whole two week break on this mountain crag alone. If your after shorter 2 and 3 pitch routes then head for the high platform on the right called the Grand Vire. Bolts are spaced on the long routes. Take a small rack of trad gear to suppliment these.

Access issues

I know of no access issues

Approach

The start of the footpath is a little hard to find, but is fairly straight forward after that. It is quite a steep walk in and can take up to an hour. The slog up hill is worth it though.

Where to stay

Camping les Eaux Vives, between Ajaccio and Bocognano. 0495528109

History

The long routes were developed nearly 20 years ago by Jean-Toussaint Casanova (great name) and Didier Micheli. (Casanova died 5 years later re-bolting his master piece Carillon du Desespoir, which is a 9 pitch sport route graded at 6b+ with one pitch of 7b+.

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades

Routes

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Grade Route
2
6b Faggianelli Sport 160m

You will need to take a half rack of trad gear to suppliment any in-situ bolts.

3
6a+ Ripp to be Sport 300m

You will need to take a half rack of trad gear to suppliment any in-situ bolts. 15 quick draws as some of the pitches are very long.

4

You will need to take a half rack of trad gear to suppliment any in-situ bolts.

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
Saga Corsica Sector
11
4
25m
Figuier Sector
8
0
38m
Gauche Sector
-
0
0
Couloir Sector
9
0
210m
Droite Sector
-
0
0

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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