Frankenjura Mostly Sport climbing13,417 routes in region
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Frankenjura is Germany's 2nd largest climbing area and a world-class sport climbing destination with a quite long history. In this large area, there are approximately 1,000 different crags spread out in a pitoresque landscape of forested valleys and mediaval villages. Apart from climbing, don't forget to excessively test the excellent local beer and solid food.
The majority of the routes at Frankenjura are short powerful single pitch sport routes on excellent quality grey limestone. Most routes are either vertical or overhanging, finger pockets are very common. The best time to climb at Frankenjura is spring and autumn, but summer is also fine since many of the crags are hidden in the forest.
Frankenjura has an established zone concept regulating whether a rock is allowed and if yes, how: http://www.ig-klettern.com/natur/zonierung.php
For seasonal closures of crags, see: http://www.ig-klettern.com/natur/sperrungen.php
For bouldering, check first: http://www.ig-klettern.com/natur/boulderappell-frankenjura-fichtelgebirge.php. Especially, no publishing of boulders, and no bouldering after sunset.
The crags are scattered all over the area, so having a car is recommended.
Where to stay
Especially in the northern Frankenjura one can find plenty of rather cheap holiday appartments. Camping is another popular option. The legendary Oma Eichler campground in the Trubachtal is a meeting point for climbers since many years.
A lot! Especially in the 80's, Frankenjura was the destination for hard-core climbing. You can find here the world’s first 8c ('Wallstreet') and 9a ('Action directe' 1991) and many more ultra classics. Frankenjura was also the birth-place of the redpoint concept, established by Kurt Albert † in the mid 70s.
Check out what is happening in Frankenjura.