Showing all 56 ascents.
Rating | Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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2778
points
| 7A | ★★ Novinka | 4m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 19th Apr 2019 | |||
Tried a high variant first, but couldn't link the moves, so I resorted to traversing the low slopers to the arête.
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2778
points
| 7A | ★★ Koi | 4m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 19th Apr 2019 | |||
Basically three hard moves and a dyno. Didn't use the bad crimp below the jugs on the edge but only the tiny sidepull crimp.
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2739
points
| 6A+ ~6A | Chains | 5m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 10th Feb 2024 | ||||
2709
points
| 6B+ | ★★ Hiwi | 3m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 19th Apr 2019 | |||
Nice little arête, the first one or two moves are the hardest.
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2544
points
| 6C+ 7A | ★ Kleine Kakkerlake | 4m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 26th Apr 2018 | |||
The opposite of yesterday's jug traverse. I took the right jug as a starting hold only. Then move left to a good sidepull, left hand up to a sloper pinch and extend to a bad crimp. Right foot on starting hold, right hand on bad crimp to the right, pull hard and reach for the sloper. Once the left foot is up and you can grab the good crimp, it's over (final hold is a jug).
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2504
points
| 6C+ 7A+ | ★ Golden Gate | 4m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 16th Dec 2017 | |||
After working out the moves, I could climb it third try. Didn't feel like 7A+, looked like some holds broke.
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2409
points
| 6A | ★ Fly (Sprung) | 2m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 19th Apr 2019 | |||
Easy to the big hole, which is however worse than it looks as an undercling. For some reason I did the dyno left hand first.
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2389
points
| 6B 6A+ | ★ Steigung SD (R1) | 3m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 19th Apr 2019 | |||
Sharp crimps and, like "Anfang", a rockover to the top.
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2326
points
| 6A+ | ★ Expendor | 4m | Eichsfeld | ★ Good | Fri 18th Aug 2017 | |||
2306
points
| 6B | ★ Rausch der Tiefe | 3m | Eichsfeld | ★ Good | Fri 18th Aug 2017 | |||
2301
points
| 6B+ | ★ Oettinger Gedenkweg | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 25th Apr 2018 | |||
Slightly more powerful, this variant follows the holds further up in the overhang through the short middle section before coming down to jugs again. The low traverse might actually be harder for tall people.
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2289
points
| 6A | ★ Hole punch SD (R11 SD) | 3m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 19th Apr 2019 | |||
Nice footwork, crux is to get over the round sloper and to grab the top hold with two hands.
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2289
points
| 6B | Linker Boulderquergang | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sat 9th Feb 2019 | |||
The middle part is almost too easy, crux is towards the end, a few moves on small crimps.
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2226
points
| 6B 6A | ★ Hendry Thredgill - with Bovist | 4m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 20th Sep 2018 | |||
#sitstart Probably around 6B, a bit easier than the one to the right. Reachy crux move into a good undercling.
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2226
points
| 6B+ 6A | ★ Birth and Rebirth - with Bovist | 4m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 20th Sep 2018 | |||
#sitstart I guess it's at least 6B+, maybe even 6C. Crux is pulling up on a small pocket (I could get my pinky and ring finger in, if you can't do that, it's a mono), blocking off and reaching for another mediocre crimp.
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2209
points
| 5C | ★ Abwärmer SD | 5m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 19th Apr 2019 | |||
Nice line along a diagonal crack. A bit high, but it's easy up top and you can downclimb.
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2209
points
| 6A+ | ★ Hau Ruck | 5m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 19th Apr 2019 | |||
Undercling flake with slopers a meter higher as support into a balance slab.
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2201
points
| 6B 6C | ★ Zeitweiser Ausnahmezustand | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 25th Apr 2018 | |||
Nice traverse with a hard section right at the beginning and then sustained on good holds to easy terrain. Kneebar before the final section
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2192
points
| 6B | ★ Teufelspakt | 3m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 4th Aug 2016 | |||
Felt relatively easy for the grade, but cool movements.
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2185
points
| 6B+ 6A+ | Rechter | 4m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 27th Jan 2019 | ||||
Started with right hand on the big sidepull. I think it's quite a lot harder than 6A+, especially the move from the two-finger fingerlock pocket to the jug.
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2106
points
| 6A | ★ Cono | 3m | Eichsfeld | ★ Good | Fri 18th Aug 2017 | |||
2106
points
| 6A | ★★ Tauchgang | 3m | Eichsfeld | ★ Good | Fri 18th Aug 2017 | |||
2089
points
| 6A 5C | ★ Anfang SD (Anfang) | 3m | Sächsische Schweiz | ★ Good | Fri 19th Apr 2019 | |||
Nice rockover move to the top.
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2026
points
| 5C | ★★ Raufjemacht | 4m | Eichsfeld | ★★ Very Good | Fri 18th Aug 2017 | |||
The easiest one up this great block, but a nice line!
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1988
points
| 7A+ | ★★ Muskelprotz - with Bovist | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Sep 2018 | |||
Long traverse, pumpy as hell. Probably need to get back more than a few times to have a chance.
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1949
points
| 7A+ | ★ Kraftwerk | 3m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 15th May 2018 | |||
I could do all the moves, but my solution involves a long dyno to a sloper/sidepull, which I couldn't stick more than once so far. Should work out if I'm fresh.
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1928
points
| 7A | ★★★ Ack-Mac | 3m | Sächsische Schweiz | Fri 19th Apr 2019 | ||||
Worked out a solution that keeps to the right of the arête, but couldn't finish it anymore.
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1926
points
| 6A | ★ Shark Attack | 4m | Eichsfeld | ★ Good | Fri 18th Aug 2017 | |||
1889
points
| 5B | ★ Kante | 2m | Sächsische Schweiz | Average | Fri 19th Apr 2019 | |||
Powerful crimp move at the start if you don't use the big hole as a starting hold.
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1882
points
| 6A | Wand rechts | 4m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sun 26th Mar 2017 | |||
Hard sit start into a good sidepull, then good holds from there to the top.
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1862
points
| 5C | ★★ Wand links | 4m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 26th Mar 2017 | |||
Technical boulder on small two- and three-finger pockets with a reachy move in the end.
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1825
points
| 7A | ★ Yogi | 3m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 15th May 2018 | |||
I probably need to improve my yoga skills before I can send it. I can get my foot up to the edge of the roof and pull myself up, but I'm not able to reach the pocket high up statically afterwards.
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1813
points
| 6A+ | ★★ Parabolica | 4m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 11th Sep 2015 | |||
Little traverse on pockets with good hooks. Needed a few tries to figure it out.
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1812
points
| 6A | ★★ Surrealis | 5m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Thu 4th Aug 2016 | |||
Took a while until I found the good mono.
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1792
points
| 5C | ★ Kombucha | 4m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 4th Aug 2016 | |||
On side-pulls to the small crack and good holds, but still some work to be done from there.
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1734
points
| 5C | 2 | 3m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Fri 15th Sep 2017 | |||
Typical Frankenjura boulder. Small, uncomfortable pockets in an overhang.
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1734
points
| 5C | 3 | 3m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Fri 15th Sep 2017 | |||
The same as for boulder number 2 applies.
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1694
points
| 6C+ 7A | ★ Kleine Kakkerlake | 4m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 26th Apr 2018 | |||
Took me a while to find the beta I wanted to use. And quite some more tries to actually stick it.
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1685
points
| 5B 6A+ | Linker | 4m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 27th Jan 2019 | ||||
Starting from the biggest hole and using all the available jugs, it's way easier than 6A+.
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1678
points
| 6C | ★★ SW Klassik | 5m | Sächsische Schweiz | Fri 19th Apr 2019 | ||||
Nice boulder, but I couldn't figure out a way to get into the vertical sloper rails before the massive hole in the roof.
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1654
points
| 6C+ 7A+ | ★ Golden Gate | 4m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 16th Dec 2017 | |||
Worked out the moves relatively quickly. Only the second move (into a hard to hit, painful three finger pocket) took a while.
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1626
points
| 5A | ★ Music and Magic - with Bovist | 3m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 20th Sep 2018 | |||
Good #warmup boulder on the far left of the wall.
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1626
points
| 5C+ 5A | ★★ Fuck - with Bovist | 3m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Sep 2018 | |||
#sitstart Cool boulder on big holds, jamming your feet into the big holes helps a lot.
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1592
points
| 5B | ★ Sandmann | 4m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Thu 4th Aug 2016 | |||
Relatively straightforward on small, polished holds.
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1592
points
| 5B | ★ Quergang | 8m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 4th Aug 2016 | |||
Did it from left to right … no direction indicated in the guidebook I used. Should be around 5B nevertheless. ;-)
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1509
points
| 5B 5A | Martin | 4m | Sächsische Schweiz | Average | Fri 19th Apr 2019 | |||
Hard for small people, the last move is quite reachy.
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1462
points
| 5A | ★ Kante | 4m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 26th Mar 2017 | |||
Nice line along a blunt edge with relatively good holds.
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1396
points
| 6B | ★ Muskellos - with Bovist | 4m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 20th Sep 2018 | |||
Tried this at the very end but slipped after the dyno.
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1392
points
| 5A | Waldenser | 3m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Thu 4th Aug 2016 | |||
Multiple solutions possible; did all of them.
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1392
points
| 5A | ★ Führerschein | 4m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 4th Aug 2016 | |||
Nice little boulder, positioned very inconspicuously left of "Kurz und schmerzlos" with its juggy boulder start.
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1392
points
| 5A | ★★ Stachelschwein | 4m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Thu 4th Aug 2016 | |||
Really nice little boulder with good movements and a little bit bigger holds than the rest of the routes here.
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1351
points
| 6B 6C | ★ Zeitweiser Ausnahmezustand | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 25th Apr 2018 | |||
Dabbed here and there and got confused in the end.
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1332
points
| 6B+ | Dachl | 3m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sun 26th Mar 2017 | |||
Two-move boulder with hard sit-start out of a two-finger pocket. Hard on the fingers, hurt my left middle finger a bit in one attempt.
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1084
points
| 6A | ★ 10 | 5m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 15th Sep 2017 | |||
Couldn't figure out how to do the last move without jumping. Tried the jump a few times but couldn't hold on … maybe I overlooked something? Should be 6A after all. Nice sequence to get into the finger pocket.
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1076
points
| 6A | Bughub | 2m | Eichsfeld | Fri 18th Aug 2017 | ||||
point
| 9 | 6m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 27th Jan 2019 | |||||
Did all the moves up to the end of the diagonal flake, where the dry part ended. Probably around 6B to 6B+ in total, maybe harder since I couldn't do the move from the mono in the upper part at all last time I tried …
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Showing all 56 ascents.