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Summary

one of the biggest sportclimbing areas after Sächsische Schweiz in Germany.

Description

Limestone - not very sharp. Different character and often with pockets. Almost single pitch sport climbing, but not always good protected. Nuts and slings could be very useful.

Access issues

Seasonal closures for protected birds: http://www.ig-klettern.com/natur/sperrungen.php

zoning concept:

Please respect signs and zoning list (http://www.ig-klettern.com/natur/zonierung.php)

Approach

There is not only one approach to Nördlicher Frankenjura. It depends where you want to climb and where you want to have your "base camp". The main city Nürnberg in the south west offers airport and railway connections to everythere. Public transport VGN (http://www.vgn.de/en/home?Edition=en) covers the most climbing areas.

These are the important railway stations for this area: - R3 to Hersbruck, Neuhaus and Pegnitz - S1 til Hersbruck (R41 Etzelwang) - R21 Gräfenberg - R22 Ebermannstadt - R2/S1 Bamberg Then you have to change to bus or bicycle. E.g. pegnitz valley could good reached by R3.

Overview map: http://www.vgn.de/en/maps/vgn/topographic?Edition=en

But some areas bad connected with public transport. So maybe it's better to stay inside your favourite area and maybe have car to travel around.

Ethic

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks http://felsinfo.alpenverein.de/images/felsfotos/22/boulderappell_nfj.pdf

History

  • 1905 the group Rifflerbuben enter the last tower ("Bolzenstein")
  • 1960 Oskar Bühler invented the "Bühlerhaken" - father of glue-in bolts
  • 1974 redpoint-definition by Kurt Albert and friends
  • 1991 "Action Directe" by Wolfgang Güllich - first UIAA 11 route

Areas

Add subarea(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
1,109
210
17m
3
2,219
628
15m
20
2,605
1,054
18m
72
2,574
970
15m
38

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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