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Summary

one of the biggest sportclimbing areas after Sächsische Schweiz in Germany.

Description

Limestone - not very sharp. Different character and often with pockets. Almost single pitch sport climbing, but not always good protected. Nuts and slings could be very useful.

Access issues

seasonal closures for protected birds: http://www.ig-klettern.com/natur/sperrungen.php

zoning concept:

Please respect signs and zoning list (http://www.ig-klettern.com/natur/zonierung.php)

Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.

Approach

There is not only one approach to Nördlicher Frankenjura. It depends where you want to climb and where you want to have your "base camp". The main city Nürnberg in the south west offers airport and railway connections to everythere. Public transport VGN (http://www.vgn.de/en/home?Edition=en) covers the most climbing areas.

These are the important railway stations for this area: - R3 to Hersbruck, Neuhaus and Pegnitz - S1 til Hersbruck (R41 Etzelwang) - R21 Gräfenberg - R22 Ebermannstadt - R2/S1 Bamberg Then you have to change to bus or bicycle. E.g. pegnitz valley could good reached by R3.

Overview map: http://www.vgn.de/en/maps/vgn/topographic?Edition=en

But some areas bad connected with public transport. So maybe it's better to stay inside your favourite area and maybe have car to travel around.

Ethic

The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps. Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.

History

1905 the group Rifflerbuben enter the last tower ("Bolzenstein") 1960 Oskar Bühler invented the "Bühlerhaken" - father of glue-in bolts 1974 redpoint-definition by Kurt Albert and friends 1991 "Action Directe" by Wolfgang Güllich - first UIAA 11 route

Areas

Add subarea(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
1,057
152
17m
3
2,187
561
15m
20
2,563
922
18m
41
2,377
832
15m
29

Open trips

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