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Summary

The biggest sport climbing area in Germany.

Description

Limestone – not very sharp. Good Variety and often with pockets.

Mostly single pitch sport climbing, but not always good protected. Nuts and slings can be very useful.

Access issues

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

The Frankenjura covers a big area, It depends where you want to climb and where you want to have your "base camp". The main city Nürnberg in the south west offers airport and railway connections to many crags. Public transport: VGN is your only option.

These are the important railway stations for this area:

  • R3 to Hersbruck, Neuhaus and Pegnitz
  • S1 til Hersbruck (R41 Etzelwang)
  • R21 Gräfenberg
  • R22 Ebermannstadt
  • R2/S1 Bamberg

Then you have to change to bus or bicycle. E.g. pegnitz valley could good reached by R3.

Overview map

But some areas are poorly connected with public transport (not much has happened since the medieval ages). Most people will have car to travel around.

Where to stay

Camping

The website of the Tourismuszentrale Fränkische Schweiz lists all camp grounds.

Ethic

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks

History

View historical timeline

Activity

Check out what is happening in Frankenjura Nord.