Ascents in Bärenschluchtwände

Toprope gemacht weil 8 für mich als Aufwärmtour zu hart ist . Sehr schön, keine Einzelstelle sondern Ausdauer. Nach der Verschneidung mit rechts in eine gute pocket mit rechts gehen (nicht die Griffe links Im riss benutzen an denen bin ich gefallen). Bei nächstem trip nochmal Im Lead machen!

One try in the morning and one in the evening when there was not too much sun. Extremely overhanging with some (smaller) jumps for me. Only did it with three breaks in the evening - but I will come back and try it when it is cooler.

Easy dihedral to nice pockets in a slight overhang.

Sehr geil. Die ersten Versuche waren für den Kopf. 10m Sturztraining hilft beim Rotpunkt die Nerven zu behalten.

The first 3 meters are horrible (had to give my fingers a quick break here). The rest is pretty nice! Challenging runout, though... I almost fell from the very top.

Went much worse than last time... the end of the first crack was slimy wet, and having to put in the draws makes clipping considerably harder further up.

Took the wrong leap of faith after the second bolt. Sent the rest just fine. Surprisingly good, not too hard.

Cleaning run.

#lastrouteoftheday a fun way to end the day. Most of the rusty bolts have been replaced by solid glue-ins. I doubt that this will be climbed freely any time soon. Only one tricky passage after the third bolt or so, where one bolt is missing (drilled hole visible) and you have to stretch quite a bit to reach the next one. Otherwise typical aid roof without any contact with the rock. It even has a pig's tail in the anchor.

#warmup in the midday heat. Felt like the first hot day of the year. Funny route that traverses out of the chimney to the left. The crack/dihedral (original finish) is overgrown, so it's best to go up left to the anchor of "Mai Pen Rai".

Traverses to the right after the crux. Felt a tad easier than the direct variant indeed. Great route.

Unique offwidth crack with a spicy and difficult passage above the ledge. #6 dragon cam very useful. Once you're in the chimney, you can no longer fall. Unfortunately, there's no anchor, so it's a bit hard to set up a belay.

Soaking wet in many places, so I didn't go for a real onsight attempt, but I wouldn't have expected to get very far anyway. Bailed at the last bolt (that is, about halfway up or so), but I tasted blood. Feels much more manageable than "Luftballondach".

Two very different halves... the gnarly slab start (feat. Many Brutal Monos) is technical and insecure, and the steep headwall is powerful and punchy.

A fun, wandering journey... but with a rather nails crux. Up-climbed and down-climbed on lead for a warmup.

3 days of effort. Struggled with wet sections, but also managed some proud links. The roof boulder and top section in a push was particularly memorable.

I never managed a single move in the mid-height crux, despite lots of effort and numerous different sequences. Id love to hear from someone who has done it since the crimper broke off?

I was surprised how much glue was holding this classic together (read: tubes and tubes and tubes of it)... makes me feel better about Blue Mountains route development.

4 laps. Didn't have the time to try and send this bold puppy on lead, but was hoping to manage the clean top rope. Alas, no dice... managed to get it down to two halves, but this late in the trip, I didnt have the endurance to put it together.

After leaving the slab and campusing the rail, it's all on to the top, with some of the raddest pocket moves I did this trip. 1-pad mono steep cranking... awwww yeah!

A monster roof crack... despite it obviously being wet, I had to check it out. Made it about half way before I got tired of the green-slime handjams, and backjumped. Seemed like thr sort of thing I'd love in the dry. A few big cams qere helpful.

The start was running with water, and I slipped off it. Then, from the ground to the top. I liked the runout headwall, but not much else about this route.

3rd shot. 2nd shot I fell off above the crux when I forgot about a key hold. A gnarly boulder off the ledge, with a pumpy finish. I skipped the complex sequence most seem to use, by doing bigger moves off worse holds (half-pad mono cranking FTW!) through the steepness.

3rd shot. 2nd shot I fell off on the roof crux. 2 brutally hard boulders separated by a no-hands rest. The bottom crimp-boulder traverse is bloody demanding (cranking a 2-finger quarter-pad edge on poor feet).

Mega mega mega roof pocket jugging through space. None of the moves gave me too much grief, and this could even be achievable while on this trip... but at the moment, its just too damn wet. Come on sun, do your stuff!

Only time for the one shot. The entire crux headwall was heaps of pockety fun, but there was still half a move I didn't get sorted. Keen to come back, though.

Hat sich sehr leicht angefühlt, laut Schwertner sogar 8+