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Brüchige Wand

Summary

Large crag with lots of classic routes that have an alpine feel to them. The rock quality is not as bad as the name suggests, there are some worthwile routes to be found.

Description

With around 35 meters, Brüchige Wand is the largest crag in the Todsfelder Tal and offers some generous lines in the lower grades with alpine feel.

Most routes have been re-equipped over the last few years, but the nature of the classic climbs was kept, so you might want to bring some nuts and slings.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

Parking is provided in front of the church in Thuisbrunn. From there, walk north past the graveyard and church and then turn right onto the path leading into Todsfeld valley. The crag will be visible after a few minutes. Follow the path until you are directly opposite the wall, then walk down over the small bridge and across the grass. A small path leads up to the foot of the crag. GPS: 11.26163, 49.69181

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks

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