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Summary

Large crag with lots of easy to mid-range routes, mostly slabby to vertical, best enjoyed during the summer months due to its north-west aspect.

Description

This large summer crag, stretching out for about 200 meters, has to offer something for everyone. At the left end, a small free-standing tower called "Gnom" waits with nice pleasure lines in its west face ("Linke Westwand", "Rechte Westwand") and hard testpieces ("Nonplusultra", "Superfly") in its north face.

To the right of the gnome, "Kaffeepause" and "Hobbitkante" are worth pointing out.

The central sector continues this varied supply of routes; worth mentioning: "Gerader Riss" (easy to protect trad line) and "Halve Hahn" (tricky wall climbing on pockets and crimps).

Three good routes right next to each other in the seventh grade (UIAA) can be found in the right sector ("Sepplriss", "Schlendrian", "Volle Lotte").

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

In Gößweinstein, follow the main road in the direction of Behringersmühle. Before leaving the village, turn left into Badangerstraße and park your car (considerably, do not obstruct the road). Walk down Badangerstraße past "Hotel Stempferhof". After going downhill for a few meters, you will see a yellow bench. Turn left here and follow the broad path for 200 meters. The crag is just above the path.

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks

History

View historical timeline

This crag functioned as a precursor to the zoning concepts regulating the interplay of climbing and nature/bird protection. In 1992, it was the first crag (together with "Weiße Wand") for which regulations have been worked out between the local government, several nature conservation groups, the german alpine club (DAV) and the IG Klettern (pressure group climbing), providing a compromise between perpetuating important climbing destinations for the sport and maintaining habitats for rare or endangered species of plants and animals.

Tags

Areas

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Name
Style
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Height
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Left Crag
27
47
20m
2

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