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Access issues inherited from Nördliche Fränkische Alb

Seasonal closures for protected birds: http://www.ig-klettern.com/natur/sperrungen.php

zoning concept:

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

Drive from Pottenstein towards Behringersmühle, park at the campsite "Bärenschlucht" cross the street and up to the visible crag in 1min. GPS: 11.38608, 49.77751

Ethic inherited from Nördliche Fränkische Alb

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks http://felsinfo.alpenverein.de/images/felsfotos/22/boulderappell_nfj.pdf

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
9+ Mata Hari Sport
2
9 Singletrail Sport
4
8+ Moderne Zeiten Sport
7
10- Troublemaker Sport
9
9+ * Peacemaker Sport 25m

the left of the two obvious lines, looks awesome!

FFA: Ulli Glawe, 1986

10
11- Black is basic Sport
11
9+ * Kretin Sport
12
9+ ?? Sport
13

Traversing the whole crag, starting on the right at Villa Concordia, then leftwards

14
9- *** City Cobra Sport 20m

follow the right of the obvious lines on this crag, the "open book". awesome line!

FA: 1986

15
9- ** Männer unter Strom Sport 18m, 6

Start up City Cobra and take the right line of bolts after the second. Great climb marred only by some badly placed bolts. ( the 4th is just above the crux and a insecure clip, and the 6. Is just in the wrong place and forces you leave the jugs to clip.)

16
8+ ** Villa Concordia Sport 15m

Activity

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