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Summary
Limestone
Small, but iconic crag with overhanging classics.
Description
The three main routes here share the same characteristics: small holds and slabby in the beginning, then a powerful, steep overhang. The middle one, "Supernase", is well-known for Wolfgang Güllich †'s solo ascents in the 80s. The route is accompanied to the left with another classic Martin Grulich route, "Albatros", and to the right with a later addition by Stefan Löw, "Top Ten". A good warmup route is the vertical crack line of "Gaffer im Nacken".
Access issues
This is as much in someone's personal space as it gets, so please be careful here! You can chat to the owners of the place since you're in their garden in front of the terrace. Stay away in the evenings and on Sundays.
Approach
GPS: 11.33591, 49.76817
Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord
- The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper.
- Pick up rubbish.
- No unnecessary noise.
- No camp fire and bivvy.
- Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
- Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
- No publishing of boulder blocks.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker
Date: 2023
ISBN: 9783938680490
Volume 1 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6450 routes on 479 crags - the complete work, including Volume 2, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.
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Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker
Date: 2020
Volume 2 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6790 routes on 387 crags - the complete work, including Volume 1, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.
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Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Johannes Kuschke on ★★ Supernase 8 - Checking out the super nase
Thu 20 Apr
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