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Summary

A great little crag well worth a visit if you are after a shady crag with a good range of grades. The climbs are short but varied and the rock quality is good.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

Drive from Neuhaus towards Auerbach, 2.4km after leaving Neuhaus is a small sealed road to your right (100m before you reach a chapel). stay on this as along as you are allowed, park here. Follow the left of the two closed dirt roads for 500m, at the intersection with the walking track "red cross" turn left, at the highest point of the track (200m) turn left for about 50m and then down to the left to reach the crag. GPS: 11.60306, 49.64112

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks

Routes

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Grade Route

Don't be afraid of the slab, its the meaty start that throws 'em off.

FFA: N. Arnold

Face start, techy corner and a funky top section make this much more varied than the length suggests, the pick of the bunch on this pinacle.

the bold arete

the name suggests that you have to use your feet on this one

Activity

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