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if you are really looking for a crag with 3 trad routes, go for it. The trees will keep it in the shade all day. There is drinking water from a fountain near the road.


hardly visited, but at least you are going to be alone here. you will most likely need another crag on the same day, Morgenleite is just a few meters down the valley.

Access issues inherited from Nördliche Fränkische Alb

Seasonal closures for protected birds:

zoning concept:

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list


Drive from Behringersmühle towards Waischenfeld. a few k's after Schottersmühle you will find a small sign on the left with "Riesenburg" and anoher 100m a bigger parking lot on the right (next to a little stone building), park here.walk across the river and turn right on the walking track. 80m down the valley you will see the crag on your left scramble up the hardly visible track (50m). GPS: 11.29709, 49.80447

Ethic inherited from Nördliche Fränkische Alb

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks


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