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Summary

Some worthwile climbs in the 8 Grade and some very short and steep recent additions make this a crag suitable to the strong and elsewhere bored local. lots of trees will keep it mostly cool in summer.

Description

Not the crag you will take your overseas visitors to. It might still be worthwile if you look for a few routes in the 8-grade range, these routes certainly look best. There is drinking water from a fountain near the road.

Access issues inherited from Nördliche Fränkische Alb

Seasonal closures for protected birds: http://www.ig-klettern.com/natur/sperrungen.php

zoning concept:

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

Drive from Behringersmühle towards Waischenfeld. a few k's after Schottersmühle you will find a small sign on the left with "Riesenburg" and anoher 100m a bigger parking lot on the right (next to a little stone building), park here.walk across the river and turn right on the walking track. 200m down the valley you will see the crag on your left scramble up the hardly visible track (50m) GPS: 11.29882, 49.80401

Ethic inherited from Nördliche Fränkische Alb

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks http://felsinfo.alpenverein.de/images/felsfotos/22/boulderappell_nfj.pdf

Routes

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