Ascents in Plankenstein

Not too bad, actually. Nice dihedral, then in principle cool traverse along underclings. A big flake is hollow in the roof, though, which is too inviting not to use; could be painful if it falls out. After the third bolt, there's only moss and dirt, unfortunately, and no anchor.

Nice black rock. Probably harder than 3 if measured using today's standards (used to be done by giving the leader a boost at the start). There's an old abseil ring on top.

Quite good, actually. Nice dihedral with big holds, protection can be added easily. Knew the last part from "Sonnwendschleife", but my memory of it was much scarier than my experience today. Two moves away from the last bolt (go a bit to the right) to reach a good chicken head, then easily (but overgrown) to the summit.

Climbing on the footholds of chicken run. Took too many tries.

The first pitch is actually a fun crawl around the tower on a narrow, sloping ledge. It's best to just climb up to the Bühler bolt and then abseil from there, though. After the bolt, it gets horribly chossy and there's no sensible protection any more. I wrapped a sling around a horn, but it's not exactly certain that it would hold a fall. Even more dangerous if the grass is wet! Also, I'm not sure the abseil bolt on top is in 100% trustworthy rock.

Short, but varied route: technical wall climbing to a juggy bulge. High foot on the right makes the finish to the anchor a breeze. #warmup

Great technical climb along the dull arête. Crux is on slopers above the third bolt, then a bit balancy to the jugs.

Couldn't figure out the crux quickly so I gave up due to time constraints. Guess I'll have to take the kinesiology seminar after all. But the things I tried in the crux were already quite artistic, I guess.

Good route along the arête. Crux after clipping the last bolt (from a good crimp on the left). Couldn't see the hold around the corner, so I made an almost fatal mistake. The humidity also lead to my hand slipping slowly from the sloper sidepull … somehow managed to stay on the wall. Didn't top out due to choss on the last meters. #lastrouteoftheday

Beim runterfalln imma am nächstn schmiergriff hänga bliebn und oben numml spannend für kloane! Nomen est omen;) ganzkörperfight!

#2go Must-do; definitely would deserve more than 5 stars! Powerful start followed by a tricky slab with a few coordinative moves into monos;)

#2go Way too hot for all these tiny crimps... messed up the onsight on the very last move and still a close fight in the 2nd try! Hard but really good slab line:)

Awesome edge climbing with a nice mono move in the lower part:)

When looking into the sun it's even harder to find the jugs;)

2nd go

2nd go

Einzelstelle oben

Homogene Wandkletterei, gnädig für den Grad. Vorsicht zum ersten Haken! Besser Vorklippen...

Lustige Felsfahrt, unten kurze Wandstelle, oben überhängender Kamin. Klassische 6+

Kurz, pumpig und brüchig. Kann man machen, muss man aber nicht^^

10-/10

9+/10-

9+/10-