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Erinnerungswand

Seasonality

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F
M
A
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S
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D

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

Approach

Drive from Pottenstein towards Behringersmühle, park at the campsite "Bärenschlucht" cross the street and up to the visible crag in 1min. GPS: 11.38608, 49.77751

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Routes

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Grade Route

FFA: Thomas Hocke, 2013

FFA: Nico Arnold, 2012

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2002

FFA: Hans-Jürgen Cron, 2001

FFA: Markus Bock, 2007

FFA: 2016

The left of the two obvious lines, looks awesome!

Set: Uli Glawe & Ben Moon

FFA: Uli Glawe & Michael Schlotter, 1986

FFA: Markus Bock, 2007

FFA: Markus Bock

Traversing the whole crag, starting on the right at Villa Concordia, then leftwards

FA: Otto Reus & Simon Müller, 1953

follow the right of the obvious lines on this crag, the "open book". awesome line!

FA: 1986

Start up City Cobra and take the right line of bolts after the second. Great climb marred only by some badly placed bolts. ( the 4th is just above the crux and a insecure clip, and the 6. Is just in the wrong place and forces you leave the jugs to clip.)

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1999

FFA: Mike Bauer, 2008

Information needed

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9783938680490

Volume 1 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6450 routes on 479 crags - the complete work, including Volume 2, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Date: 2020

Volume 2 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6790 routes on 387 crags - the complete work, including Volume 1, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Author(s): Sebastian Schwertner

Date: 2021

Band 1 des Gesamtwerkes für den nördlichen Teil der fränkischen Schweiz - auf 584 Seiten werden 6100 Routen vorgestellt. Zusammen mit Band 2 ergeben das mehr als 1150 Seiten genaue Informationen zu den über 12.600 Routen des Nördliche Frankenjura …

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Tue 25 Apr
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