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Summary

some classic lines, which climb well if you are not pushing your grade limit.

Description

unfortunately these routes are often wet, but if they are dry go for it! It's worth it (maybe bring a brush though)

Access issues inherited from Nördliche Fränkische Alb

Seasonal closures for protected birds: http://www.ig-klettern.com/natur/sperrungen.php

zoning concept:

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

Drive from Pottenstein towards Behringersmühle, park at the campsite "Bärenschlucht" cross the street and up to the visible crag (Erinnerungswand), turn left in front and to the crag in a few meters. GPS: 11.38481, 49.77816

Ethic inherited from Nördliche Fränkische Alb

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks http://felsinfo.alpenverein.de/images/felsfotos/22/boulderappell_nfj.pdf

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

start up Radarfalle and climb the arete and don't get too nervous at the top, its all there

the route facing right towards "schwarzer streifen"

quite runout, starts in the unprotected but easy chimney, onto the face and up.

called direct start but is really a right hand start, up with difficulty over the first sectionn of the wall, then join "Schwarzer Streifen at it's first bolt!

The straight line, like "Direkt Start" past 2 bolts then up.

starts as the other two but then follows the logic line rightwards

FA: Stefan Löw, 2014

Set by Jörg Perwitschky

FA: Dzifa Vode, 2016

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