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Summary

Impressive lines, good rock quality and the home of Germany's first 10/10+, "Ghettoblaster".

Description

The Rabenfels (Raven's Rock), a beautiful, cylindrical tower, offers good climbing in a sunny south face from 6- ("Herbstzauber") to 10/10+ ("Ghettoblaster").

All the routes in the south face can be recommended. The most enjoyable way to reach the summit (most of the routes end just below the mushroom-shaped block at the top) is probably the second length of "Robert Lukas Gedenkweg", which, in an exposed traverse, leads under the roof to the left into easy terrain.

Less popular and with far less protection are the lines in the east and north face, the latter of which offers the easiest paths to the summit.

Access issues

Seasonal closure from 01.02. til 30.06. (flexible solution)

Approach

From the street from Neuhaus/Pegnitz to Ranna, turn right into a small forestal road just after the hamlet "Lehnerhof" and just before the small chapel. Follow the road for about 1 km and you will reach a hiker's parking lot.

From the parking, just follow the road east (signs towards Rabenfels) for 750 m.

GPS: 11.59904, 49.64298

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks

History

View historical timeline

  • Excavations show that the rock has been used as cult site as early as the Bronze Age.
  • In modern times, the rock has seen ascents only as late as the 1950s.
  • The rock became famous with Wolfgang Güllich's first ascent of "Ghettoblaster" in 1986, for some time the hardest route in Germany.
  • In the year 2000, the trees around the south face were cut down.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1 6+ 28m
2 7- 10m

FA: G. Fuchs & A. Heinrich, 1967

FA: R. Holzberger & A. Heinrich, 1950

FFA: M. Grulich

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1980

FFA: K. Oelze, 1991

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1980

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1979

FFA: K. Oelze

FA: O. Bühler, 1963

FA: A. Heinrich, 1950

Activity

Check out what is happening in Rabenfels.