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Lindenstein

  • Grade context: UIAA
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 409
  • Aka: Rabenleite
38

Seasonality

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Summary

A lot of routes between 4- and 6+, but often with few bolts, so bring your nuts and slings.

Description

Mixture of bolted and clean routes, although many of the easy routes might need some additional protection for beginners. At weekends often crowded. The more difficult routes are also recommendable.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

Approach

Park at the northern end of Allersdorf, then walk into the village and take the first to the right to camping Kormershof. Behind the camping ground you can see a lonely house at the edge of the forest. From there, a path leads into the forest. After a few meters, turn left and follow the path to the visible rocks.

Where to stay

http://www.kormershof.de (camping 5min away from crag)

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

FA: Alma & Torsten Schierz, 2012

FA: Alma, 2012

FA: Torsten Schierz, 2012

FFA: Dominik Frenzl, 2013

Als Umlenker 1 Bohrhaken, am Köpfchen hintersicherbar. Unterwegs kann man per Bandschlingen absichern.

In der zweiten Hälfte ein paar lose Steine. Als Umlenker 1 Bohrhaken oben auf dem Köpfle; ist etwas nach hinten versetzt und per Bandschlinge gut um die Kante "verlängerbar", so dass die Seilreibung bei Toprope reduziert ist. Unterwegs kann man mehrfach Bandschlingen um Köpfchen legen oder mittlere bis größere Freunde bzw. Keile/Hexcentrix legen.

Umlenker mit Sauschwanz. Am Block daneben mit langer Bandschlinge hintersicherbar.

Als Umlenker ein großer, mit anderen Routen geteilten Bohrhaken auf der jenseitigen Fläche des Köpfchens - per Bandschlinge auf die richtige Seite verlängern.

Als Umlenker ein großer Bohrhaken, den 4 Touren teilen.

Als Umlenker ein großer Bohrhaken, den 4 Touren teilen.

Einstieg bis zum 1. Haken am schwersten.

Unten kann man piazzen, dann leicht geneigt an Riss und Kante hoch. Als Umlenker entweder Bandschlinge ums Köpfchen oder Haken der Nachbarroute nutzen.

Stellenweise etwas speckig.

Umlenker von Muži oder Hexi nutzen.

Als Umlenker 1 Bohrhaken.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9783938680490

Volume 1 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6450 routes on 479 crags - the complete work, including Volume 2, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Date: 2020

Volume 2 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6790 routes on 387 crags - the complete work, including Volume 1, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Author(s): Sebastian Schwertner

Date: 2021

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 19 Apr
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