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Summary

nicely set in the forest with a nearby campsite.

Description

a shorter crag that will suit beginners with someone to lead some of the climbs. it's near the campsite in Moritz, and it will get a fair bit of use from the people staying there.

Access issues

please dont park inside the village.

Approach

between Behringersmühle and Engelhardsberg, Drive from Behringersm. towards Wascheinfeld.after 800m is a turn off to the left towards Engelhardsberg. up this for about 1km, then right towards Moritz. park before the village on the right. you can see Moritzer Turm already. Walk into the village and take the road to the right. after the last property you can walk up along the fence and past the shed to the forest edge. slip through the bushes and you are at the Turm. now walk right following the track uphill and through some small walls to the south side, then further up left to the crag OPTION 2: with a pram you are probably better of finding your way through the tiny village until you are in front of the Gasthaus, here follow the path to the right of the shed past some caravans into the forest and you will see the crag on your right in 2min. please dont park inside the village.

Ethic inherited from Nördliche Fränkische Alb

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks http://felsinfo.alpenverein.de/images/felsfotos/22/boulderappell_nfj.pdf

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
7- Unnamed 1 Sport
2
8 Unnamed 2 Sport
3
7+ ? Sport
4
6+ Doppeldecker Sport

You can use a rock tunnel sling and nut before first bolt. Midget death after second bolt.

5
7 Yo, MTV Rap Sport
6
7- Etappenziel Sport
7
8+ ** Tierisches Gerät Sport 14m, 5
8
5+ * Linke Verschneidung Mixed 14m, 2
9
5+ ** Räuberriß Sport 14m, 4
10
5+ * Ohne Moos Nix Los Sport 14m, 3
11
5+ * Marsupilami Sport 12m, 3
12

this doesnt have a chain, traverse to the chains of the route left.

13
14
4+ * Südpfeiler Trad
15
7+ * Unnamed 3 Sport
16
8- Unnamed 4 Sport

Activity

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