A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Christoph Rauch cooky Melwin Quacke Campbell Gome Alma Martina Demmel Thomas Hocke Martin Skalli Loic Zehani Ruben
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Schiefer Tod 17 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Schiefer Tod 17 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.802013, 11.299929
- Zone 1: NO climbing
- Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
- Zone 3: new routes possible
- The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper.
- Pick up rubbish.
- No unnecessary noise.
- No camp fire and bivvy.
- Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
- Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
- No publishing of boulder blocks.
summary
This north-east face has the most to offer for climbers looking for routes in the 9th grade UIAA and above. Don't miss the easier classic namesake traverse, though!
description
The crag consists of two massive overhangs with high-end routes on the left ("Riders of Doom") and right ("I Bleed Black"), and a relatively vertical, sometimes even slabby part in the middle.
The old traverse goes up to the beginning of the right overhang and then pulls out diagonally left under the roof and on top of the left overhang to a belay, crossing the popular 9th grade routes like "Totenbrett" and "Gelber Blaser" in the process.
At the left end, just avoiding the roof, are the two easiest non-traverse lines, "Leichenschmaus" and "Abgesang"; the latter has to be protected with nuts and cams.
The far right route of the crag is, interestingly enough, another traverse ("Letzte Instanz"), going up around the right overhang and traversing to the left along its edge.
There is lots of loose rock in the lower part of most of the routes, but the rock quality gets better with the height.
access issues
Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags
Additional information: IG Klettern closure list
Zoning concept
Please respect signs and zoning.
approach
Drive from Doos towards Behringersmühle. After 1.4 km, there is a small parking bay on your right, directly opposite a lonely house on the other side of the river. From the right end of the bay, a forest road leads uphill. Follow it for a few meters and then branch off right onto another forest road, which leads directly to the crag.
GPS: 11.29973, 49.80217
ethic
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Leichenschmaus
FFA: Stefan Löw, 1995 | 8 | 17m | |||
2 |
★★ Abgesang
FFA: Holger Längner, 2009 | 8- | 20m | |||
3 |
Riders of Doom
FFA: Markus Bock, 2013 | 11 | 20m | |||
4 |
★★ He's Looking At You, Kid
FFA: Markus Bock, 2012 | 11- | 20m | |||
5 | ★★ Gelber Blaser | 9 | ||||
6 |
Dead People Are Looking At You
FFA: Kevin Schatz, 2017 | 10 | 20m | |||
7 |
★★ Totgesagte leben länger
FFA: Kai Bunke, 2012 | 10- | 15m | |||
8 |
★★ Still Alive
FFA: Kai Bunke, 2012 | 10 | 25m | |||
9 |
★★★ Totenstill
Kombi aus Totmacher und Still alive aussteigen FA: verm. Sarah Seeger | {FR} 8a | 18m | |||
10 |
★★ Der Totmacher
FFA: Stefan Löw, 1999 | 9+ | 25m | |||
11 |
★★★ Totenbrett
FFA: Stefan Löw, 1995 | 9+ | 28m | |||
12 |
★★ Kalter Hauch
FFA: Stefan Löw, 2007 | 9- | 20m | |||
13 |
★★ Six Feet Under
FFA: Joshua Schulz, 2012 | 10- | ||||
14 |
★★ Schiefer Tod
FA: Julius Bär, 1932 | 7- | 25m | |||
15 |
Lazarus
Set: Markus Bock, 2012 FFA: Moritz Welt, 23 Nov 2022 | 11/11+ | 30m | |||
16 |
★★ I Bleed Black
FFA: Markus Bock, 2013 | 11- | 30m | |||
17 |
★ Letzte Instanz
FFA: Stefan Löw, 2007 | 9- | 20m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
7- | ★★ | Schiefer Tod | 25m | ||
8- | ★★ | Abgesang | 20m | ||
8 | ★ | Leichenschmaus | 17m | ||
9- | ★★ | Kalter Hauch | 20m | ||
★ | Letzte Instanz | 20m | |||
9 | ★★ | Gelber Blaser | |||
9+ | ★★ | Der Totmacher | 25m | ||
★★★ | Totenbrett | 28m | |||
8a | ★★★ | Totenstill | 18m | ||
10- | ★★ | Six Feet Under | |||
★★ | Totgesagte leben länger | 15m | |||
10 | Dead People Are Looking At You | 20m | |||
★★ | Still Alive | 25m | |||
11- | ★★ | He's Looking At You, Kid | 20m | ||
★★ | I Bleed Black | 30m | |||
11 | Riders of Doom | 20m | |||
11/11+ | Lazarus | 30m |