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Seasonality
Summary
Limestone
Generous lines in the 7th UIAA grades in black rock.
Description
Afternoon sun
Always shady
North
North East
South West
Two smaller walls with good rock quality, hidden behind a thick spruce forest. Bolted in the 80s almost exclusively by the eager developer Stefan Löw, the crag offers a series of climbs in the 7th UIAA grades. The bulk of the left part faces south-west, but the beech forest provides shade in the summer. The right part is a higher, shady north face.
Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord
Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags
Additional information: IG Klettern closure list
Zoning concept
- Zone 1: NO climbing
- Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
- Zone 3: new routes possible
Please respect signs and zoning.
Approach
Steep hike
5-10 min
Coming from direction Pottenstein, drive past the Bärenschlucht camping ground. After a few meters, there is a parking lot on the right (near a house with a little hydroelectric station). Park there, then follow the hiking trail across the street straight into the forest and turn right (west) at the first fork after a few meters. About 180 m from the fork, there is a faint track leading uphill on the left. Just go straight uphill from there and you will end up at the foot of the left part.
GPS: 11.37837, 49.77662
Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord
- The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper.
- Pick up rubbish.
- No unnecessary noise.
- No camp fire and bivvy.
- Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
- Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
- No publishing of boulder blocks.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker
Date: 2023
ISBN: 9783938680490
Volume 1 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6450 routes on 479 crags - the complete work, including Volume 2, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.
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Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker
Date: 2020
Volume 2 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6790 routes on 387 crags - the complete work, including Volume 1, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.
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Author(s): Sebastian Schwertner
Date: 2021
Band 2 des Gesamtwerkes für den nördlichen Teil der fränkischen Schweiz - auf 584 Seiten werden 6500 Routen vorgestellt. Zusammen mit Band 1 ergeben das mehr als 1150 Seiten genaue Informationen zu den über 12.600 Routen des Nördliche Frankenjura ...
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Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Tue 25 Apr
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