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Streitberger Schild

Summary

Visible far and wide, Streitberg's shield-shaped landmark offers lots of classic routes in smooth rock.

Description

Impressive free-standing tower in the shape of a knight's shield, right in the middle of the village Streitberg.

In the south face, you can find long, exposed, vertical wall climbs in unusually smooth rock. Highlights include "Schildkröte" and "Bernd Arnold-Platte". The slim west face houses the first route ever to be marked with a "red point", "Adolf Rott Gedenkweg". The easiest way up can be found in the shady backside.

Especially the easier climbs are polished and the protection should sometimes be improved with one or the other nut.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

In Streitberg, drive up towards Binghöhle/Störnhof. In front of the last group of houses on the right, turn right towards Streitburg and park your car after 150 m near the abandoned quarry on the left (do not obstruct the driveway on the left!). Walk uphill. On your right, opposite a house with lots of fossils and garden gnomes in the garden, a footpath leads down to the crag.

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks

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Routes

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Grade Route

Historic route, as it was the first one to be marked with a 'red point' by Kurt Albert † in 1975.

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1975

Starts together with "Südwestkante, Direkter Einstieg", then merges into "Bernd Arnold-Platte" followed by a long and sparely protected traverse, passing the line of "Schildkröte" and still going a bit right and up over 2 bolts to the anchor.

FFA: K. Nicklaus, 2008

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1978

No chain on top, best to use the last bolt.

The thin, boltless crack between "Pilgerriss" and "Erdenkäuferriss".

FA: A. Erdenkäufer, 1965

FFA: Alex Marg, 2015

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