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Description

Fantastic endurance climbing on good rock, with some very hard classics on the right side.

Access issues

Seasonal closure from 01.02. til 30.06. (flexible solution)

Approach

Drive in Pottenstein to the turnoff for Waldcafe, park here (since the Road to Waldcafe is Private & for Customers only!) walk towards Waldcafe (about 500m) and cross the creek on the right on a small bridge. now right on the path for 100m, and sharp left uphill for another 100m. you can see Trautner Ged. Wand high up on the right, scramble up the path for 200m . GPS: 11.42046, 49.76947

Ethic inherited from Nördliche Fränkische Alb

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks http://felsinfo.alpenverein.de/images/felsfotos/22/boulderappell_nfj.pdf

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
2
9+ Cupido Sport 18m
3

starts with "König der Lüfte" in the roof and breaks out left to join "Bis zum bitteren Ende"

4
9- König der Lüfte Sport 18m
5
8 Provisorium Sport 20m
6
8 * Condor Sport 20m

good climbing but some painful holds if you've got fat fingers..

7
8 * Non Stop Sport 21m
8
8+ GoGo Sport 19m
9
9- Ohne Stein Sport

without rock.... the steep direct start to "GoGo"

10
5+ A1 Mittelverschneidung Aid 18m
11
8+ * Stück Fur Stück Sport 25m, 5
12
7+ Grenzenlos Sport 20m

basically a 7+, but has a 8+ Start!, what are you supposed to do, aid it?

13
14
9- Luca Sport

Direct Start to "Stück für Stück"

17
8+ Mit Gott Sport 25m
18
7+ Alter Weg Sport 25m, 8
20
9+ Black Pearl Sport 10m
21
11- * Showdown Sport
22
10 Neun Leben Sport 12m

Open trips

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