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Summary

Sensational climbing in a shady hole.

Description

Some really fantastic lines for those who can climb 9- and up. some more recent additions by local Markus Bock add to the apeal for strong men&wmn. the only disadvantage is that lots of routes share the start and it is parltly wet quite often.

Access issues inherited from Nördliche Fränkische Alb

Seasonal closures for protected birds: http://www.ig-klettern.com/natur/sperrungen.php

zoning concept:

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

Drive from Pottenstein towards Behringersmühle, park at Camping Bärenschlucht. walk from the campsite across the street, up towards Erinnerungswand and follow the walking track to the left past Weidener Wand. GPS: 11.38820, 49.77654

Where to stay

Camping Bärenschlucht

Ethic inherited from Nördliche Fränkische Alb

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks http://felsinfo.alpenverein.de/images/felsfotos/22/boulderappell_nfj.pdf

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

these days a very popular 8a

FFA: Markus Bock, 2003

climb past 5 bolts over the bulge and finish off steinlaus. (lazy climbers end it after the bulge)

start right of the "bulge", at the second bolt traverse left on slopers past 3 bolts, then up.

it used to start like H-Bloxx but it's mostly climbed via the corner left of the bulge which maybe adds a bit to the difficulty.

very solid pocket climbing. mostly on first digit holds.

contrived

Set by Julian Söhnlein

FFA: Alexander Megos, 2015

the dirty corner, exits to the right

if you find the start slippery then because it is. crawl in from the right and preclip if you don't want to solo the start.

why would anyone add a climb and bolt it like this? well....

save yourself the trip to fontainebleu and get on this beauty! it would get another star if it wasn't for the weird ledge you crawl in on.

Activity

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