Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Summary

Sensational climbing in a shady hole.

Description

Some really fantastic lines for those who can climb 9- and up. some more recent additions by local Markus Bock add to the apeal for strong men&wmn. the only disadvantage is that lots of routes share the start and it is parltly wet quite often.

Access issues inherited from Nördliche Fränkische Alb

seasonal closures for protected birds: http://www.ig-klettern.com/natur/sperrungen.php

zoning concept:

Please respect signs and zoning list (http://www.ig-klettern.com/natur/zonierung.php)

Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.

Approach

Drive from Pottenstein towards Behringersmühle, park at Camping Bärenschlucht. walk from the campsite across the street, up towards Erinnerungswand and follow the walking track to the left past Weidener Wand. GPS: 11.38820, 49.77654

Where to stay

Camping Bärenschlucht

Ethic inherited from Nördliche Fränkische Alb

The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps. Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
Unnamed 1 Sport 10m
2
8 Dunkelkammer Sport 12m
3
8+ Space Balls Sport 18m
4
8 Sliberner Surfer Sport 18m
5
9- Burnout Sport 16m
6
10+ Spine of God Sport 17m, 8
7
10- Wet Pussy Contest / WPC Sport 16m, 6
9
11- Lake District Sport 16m
10
10- Steep Mud Sport 16m
11
10- Hellboy Sport 16m
12
11- Father and Son Sport 16m
13
11- Kompressor Sport 15m

FFA: Markus Bock, 2003

14
9 ** Mars Attacks Sport 17m
15
9+ Blue Velvet Sport 17m
16
10- Subterfudge Sport

climb past 5 bolts over the bulge and finish off steinlaus. (lazy climbers end it after the bulge)

17
9- Jabba, the Hut Sport 17m

start right of the "bulge", at the second bolt traverse left on slopers past 3 bolts, then up.

18
8+ Steinlaus Sport 15m

it used to start like H-Bloxx but it's mostly climbed via the corner left of the bulge which maybe adds a bit to the difficulty.

19
9- Risin' high Sport 17m
20
8 H Blockx Sport 16m

contrived

21
8 * Denkste Sport 16m
23
Proj1 Sport Project 15m
25
7- Brindisi Rosso Trad 15m

the dirty corner, exits to the right

26
Proj2 Sport Project
27
9- Cubana Sport 15m
28
8 Amalgamplatte Sport 14m
29
7 ** Manganplatte Sport 14m

if you find the start slippery then because it is. crawl in from the right and preclip if you don't want to solo the start.

31
6- Nix Fur Emma Sport 13m
32
7 to 7+ Insa und Bert Sport 14m

why would anyone add a climb and bolt it like this? well....

33
7- * Barenschlucht Mantle Sport 14m

save yourself the trip to fontainebleu and get on this beauty! it would get another star if it wasn't for the weird ledge you crawl in on.

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.