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Summary

Legendary crag directly at the roadside between Neuhaus an der Pegnitz and Plech.

Description

Very popular crag with a myriad of good routes with most of the time sensible protection in various styles. Short, bouldery routes with sometimes overhanging start in the left part ('Linker Teil'); mostly vertical routes in the middle ('Mittlerer Teil') and the famous bulge/overhang to the right ('Rechter Teil') with classics like 'Entsafter' and 'Dampfhammer'.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

Parking is provided directly at the crag. Just grab your gear and walk to the wall.

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: B. Müller, 2001

FA: B. Müller, 2001

FA: B. Müller, 2001

FA: B. Müller, 2001

FA: P. Harter, 1989

FA: R. Buchner, 1968

FA: A. Heinrich, 1967

A well protected chimney.

FA: Finn Fischer & Yul Fischer, 2005

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1980

FFA: J. Bachar, 1981

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1979

Consider preclipping the first bolt with a clipstick.

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1980

The Testpiece in this grade. a classic 6b+, pumpy as hell!

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1980

Activity

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