• Grades: UIAA
  • Approach time: under 1 min
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 516

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Legendary crag directly at the road between Neuhaus an der Pegnitz and Plech.


Very popular crag with a myriad of good routes with most of the time sensible protection in various styles. Short, bouldery routes with sometimes overhanging start in the left part ('Linker Teil'); mostly vertical routes in the middle ('Mittlerer Teil') and the famous bulge/overhang to the right ('Rechter Teil') with classics like 'Entsafter' and 'Dampfhammer'.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list


Parking is provided directly at the crag. Just grab your gear and walk to the wall.

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks


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Grade Route

FA: B. Müller, 2001

FA: B. Müller, 2001

FA: B. Müller, 2001

FA: B. Müller, 2001

FA: P. Harter, 1989

FA: R. Buchner, 1968

FA: A. Heinrich, 1967

A well protected chimney.

FA: Finn Fischer & Yul Fischer, 2005

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1980

FFA: J. Bachar, 1981

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1979

Consider preclipping the first bolt with a clipstick.

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1980

The Testpiece in this grade. a classic 6b+, pumpy as hell!

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1980

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