Ascents in Zehnerstein

Jahreserste 2024

VORSICHT: Ein Siebenschläfer (o.ä.) nistet in der Route. Sie sollte daher nicht begangen werden

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weird

Glattpolierte Griffe / Polished holds

Good climbing in dark rock. A bit dusty, though. You can bridge to the other wall to make it easier.

Climbed the route along a line more true to the original given in old guidebooks by traversing left in the steepest part of "Seifertriss". Climbed freely, the traverse leads slightly upwards instead of down, so the rope runs smoothly if you leave out the first bolt after reaching the crack of Affenschaukel. Funnily enough, this variant felt almost better than what is most climbed nowadays because it leaves out the steep, greasy boulder and replaces it with sustained, overhanging pocket climbing in the traverse.

As described in the early Frankenjura guidebooks. Interestingly, the description changed over the years and the overhanging dihedral in the beginning was replaced by a traverse from the right. This might actually be easier but I haven't tried it yet. The overhanging dihedral is juggy but the holds are quite far apart and it's a bit sustained. From the ledge it's relaxed climbing; of course the finish is the best part.

Felt quite strong in the roof and after one sit figured out a good solution.

Definitely much better with higher temps. Last time, in winter, the sharp holds were killing my skin. Perfect conditions today. Unusual style for me because my beta involves quite a few dynamic bumps. The upper part is still tricky and exhausting, almost fell off when I lunged to a sloper and didn't stick it fully. Readjusting luckily worked out and I could muster the strength to pull up into the rest.

Guess I was better at this back in 2015. That's what I get for giving up going to the bouldering gym.