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Summary

It's like the German mini version of Fontainebleau: short, boulderlike routes on peculiar conglomerate stone in a beautiful, temperate forest.

Description

In the forest southwest of the small town of Nideggen a couple of conglomerate rock formations can be found which vary in height from the boulder to high ball range up to sportclimbing lengths. Climbing is very accessible and popular. In summer, the forest offers a cool and tranquil setting for all day round climbing.

Many routes are sparsely bolted. Most routes don not have an anchor consisting of two independent bolts.

Access issues

Climbing is limited to 150 climbers per day in order to reduce the impact on the ecosystem. You have to buy a climbing pass ('Kletter ticket') which permits a full day of climbing and costs €5 (last verified July 2018). They are for sale at the local Aral gas station and the national park headquarter Nationalpark-Tor Nideggen (Im Effels 10 52385 Nideggen). Please respect this rule!

Approach

Park either close to the Niddegen Burg entry or at the parking spot on the right hand side upon turning into the cul-de-sac road leading to the youth hostel. From there, follow the paths into the valley and follow the signs. It's a 5 to 10 minute walk depending of where you park and where you're going to.

Where to stay

There's a couple of campings nearby and there's a youth hostel almost next to the rocks. Free camping is not allowed in Germany but not impossible in the area.

Ethic

Please note that conglomerate rock has very particular properties. Be aware using traditional gear.

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